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Car washing for the non-OC

Old Mar 16, 2007 | 06:06 PM
  #301  
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Originally Posted by Ords
No, that will be you in the Bottle costume holding the placard, "I've Hydro'd, have you?"
Yes that's right! Come on, Ken... don't try to get out of it!

(Ords- don't forget that he'll also be wearing the giant foam bottle of Hydro on his head... he's a Hydro-head )

-Heather

PS- Can you tell I'm trying to catch up from missing the week on NAM??
 
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 06:07 PM
  #302  
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Originally Posted by mcdbrendan
I thought he was in a MonsterFluffy MAX costume...
No, that's ImagoX in the Monster Fluffy MAX suit (or even the Monster Fluffy- whichever he prefers is fine by me).

Ken's the one wearing the giant foam bottle of Hydro on his head.

Jeesh... get your mascots straight Brendan!

-Heather
 
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 06:57 AM
  #303  
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Originally Posted by Ords
No, that will be you in the Bottle costume holding the placard, "I've Hydro'd, have you?"
Originally Posted by Detailers Paradise
Yes that's right! Come on, Ken... don't try to get out of it!

(Ords- don't forget that he'll also be wearing the giant foam bottle of Hydro on his head... he's a Hydro-head )

-Heather

BLAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 08:23 PM
  #304  
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Wow, this Prima Hydro detailer sounds like the stuff for me! I'm absolutely in the "non-OC" category, washing may car every couple of weeks, and waxing 2-3 times a year. I've always used the big brands (Meguiars NXT for waxing and Mothers Showtime Detailer after each wash) and thought I kept my car in pretty good shape. You guys are on a whole other plane with the level of detailing you do! Can the Hydro really replace waxing if used every few weeks after each wash? If so, that's the one for me! I also like the fact you put it on a wet car, one less step!
I have one related question. I've always used old cotton bath towels for drying my car and waxing. I cut off all edges so there's no hard seams. Is there an issue with using soft 100% cotton towels, or are microfiber (or microwaffle, whatever that is) just better? Again, I'm no fanatic, but if the cotton towels are a problem, I'd certainly invest in those other kind.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 08:48 PM
  #305  
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Wow, this is a thread from the archives.
Just say no to cotton - that is so old school. Microfiber waffle weave is the new pink.
I don't find Hydro a suitable replacement for a good wax. It does prolong the wax life, but by itself I don't believe it offers as much protection or life. I know at least one person that won't agree, but many other will.
I choose to use Prima Epic as my wax (twice a year) and Hydro after the wash. As good as it gets in my book.
Now, lets see what we can do about this OCD deficiency.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 08:36 AM
  #306  
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Thanks! I know it's an old thread, but the forum rules advise not starting a new one if there's one already that fits a topic. Does that exclude "sticky" threads, like this one? I like your routine, wax twice a year and detail after every wash, it's pretty much what I do now for my car. Sounds like the Prima Epic and Prima Hydro would do the trick. Any site you can recommend that sells Prima products and those special magic waffle towels?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 02:43 PM
  #307  
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www.detailersparadise.com will have everything you need! They sell Prima products and have a good selection of microfiber, including waffle weaves.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 03:01 PM
  #308  
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^^ What she said ^^
 
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Old Mar 15, 2008 | 07:16 PM
  #309  
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Thanks to all. I noticed their ad after I posted, at the top of the page! (duh!) My Clubman's due in next week, so I'll order up a starter kit of Epic, Hydro, and some very expensive rags!
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 04:17 PM
  #310  
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OK..forgive me if this question has been asked and answered before. I have read over almost ALL of the Detailing 101 trying to get a handle on this stuff. I have talked to SCD and DP vendors, but not on this specific question.

I have suddenly moved from the DGASD (Don't Give a Sh*t Detailer) to non-OCD to OCD. I am starting to detail wifes '06 Rover for practice. I have "Dawned" and Clayed with a Mequiars Last Touch detailer. I have now taped and papered all trim/windows to prep for a Prima Swirl or Finish application and will do spot scratch removal.

My question is after a Swirl or Finish application, I am suppose to "rewash" before moving to the next step like Amigo, then "rewash" again before moving to Epic? And if a rewash is required between steps, how do you OC'rs do this with everything masked off? Doesn't the tape come off? Or do you use a spray bottle w/water and micro dry sections at a time? Or do you use a quick detailer between steps?

Thank you.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 04:20 PM
  #311  
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I've never suggested to anyone to wash after polishing the paint. Who told you that??

Richard


Originally Posted by Gumby!
OK..forgive me if this question has been asked and answered before. I have read over almost ALL of the Detailing 101 trying to get a handle on this stuff. I have talked to SCD and DP vendors, but not on this specific question.

I have suddenly moved from the DGASD (Don't Give a Sh*t Detailer) to non-OCD to OCD. I am starting to detail wifes '06 Rover for practice. I have "Dawned" and Clayed with a Mequiars Last Touch detailer. I have now taped and papered all trim/windows to prep for a Prima Swirl or Finish application and will do spot scratch removal.

My question is after a Swirl or Finish application, I am suppose to "rewash" before moving to the next step like Amigo, then "rewash" again before moving to Epic? And if a rewash is required between steps, how do you OC'rs do this with everything masked off? Doesn't the tape come off? Or do you use a spray bottle w/water and micro dry sections at a time? Or do you use a quick detailer between steps?

Thank you.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 04:24 PM
  #312  
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[quote=OctaneGuy;2104665]I've never suggested to anyone to wash after polishing the paint. Who told you that??

Richard, I know YOU didn't tell me to wash it, but I know I have read it somewhere, either in here, or on some other detailing site I have read. I would assume if you DON'T wash between polishing steps, you would still need to wash between a polish and Wax application??
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 04:31 PM
  #313  
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By the way Richard, Thanks for your help at Show Car Detailing and thanks to Nick at Detailers Paradise. I did place an initial PRIMA and Black Wow order with DP. For now I am borrowing a friends G110 and LC pads. He has helped me remove "purse" scratches last weekend, using Mequiars Mirror Glaze pad/products.

Thanks again for your help!
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 04:42 PM
  #314  
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Nope, no logical reason to wash between polish and wax. I can't imagine what good that would accomplish. What are you trying to wash off ?

You've just spent time washing to remove surface dirt and the old wax; claying to remove deeper contaminants and some more of the old wax; and polishing to remove swirls, light scratches, and other imperfections. You now have a perfectly pristine paint finish which just needs protection.

Wax your little heart out !!!
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 04:46 PM
  #315  
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You wash once, claybar, dry as you claybar, then polish, then wax.

Some people don't dry as they clay and will wash the car a second time after claying, and I don't like to do that.

You're welcome!
Originally Posted by Gumby!
By the way Richard, Thanks for your help at Show Car Detailing and thanks to Nick at Detailers Paradise. I did place an initial PRIMA and Black Wow order with DP. For now I am borrowing a friends G110 and LC pads. He has helped me remove "purse" scratches last weekend, using Mequiars Mirror Glaze pad/products.

Thanks again for your help!


Richard
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 04:50 PM
  #316  
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Originally Posted by CR&PW&JB
Nope, no logical reason to wash between polish and wax. I can't imagine what good that would accomplish. What are you trying to wash off ?

You've just spent time washing to remove surface dirt and the old wax; claying to remove deeper contaminants and some more of the old wax; and polishing to remove swirls, light scratches, and other imperfections. You now have a perfectly pristine paint finish which just needs protection.

Wax your little heart out !!!
Well, maybe I slipped into the Dark Side of OOCD (Overly Obsessive)...and to think a week ago I was considering doing this by hand!

Thanks! Hope I don't poop out and go back to a DGASD before I get to the Mini.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 04:50 PM
  #317  
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I think the only wash debate has been between the clay stage and the polish stage.
Like CRMCPWMCJBMCSCOCD, I can't think of a reason to wash between polishes unless you have loads of time, plenty of tape budget and are so **** you count bathroom tiles three times before leaving.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 04:59 PM
  #318  
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I seem to have gained some letters in my name.



BTW, I just give it a good rinsing after the clay, dry it off, and start the polishing process. I sure don't do another full wash.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 05:02 PM
  #319  
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Originally Posted by OctaneGuy
You wash once, claybar, dry as you claybar, then polish, then wax.
Thanks for the fast replies! I did Clay and dry as I went...can't imagine NOT drying as you go...

Will polish and wax this weekend.

One Black WOW question for you Richard. I have already taped the Rover, but this may pertain to the mini when I do it next. Would you Black Wow the Flares, rain gutter and other exterior trim BEFORE you wash/polish/wax? Seems like I read that somewhere too. Will the Black Wow compromise the tape sticking ability as I prep for the DA polish/wax?

If you had a 2nd location in OKLAHOMA, I could just drop it off with $250, save me the headache and future Psych bills.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 05:06 PM
  #320  
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Originally Posted by Gumby!
...If you had a 2nd location in OKLAHOMA, I could just drop it off with $250, save me the headache and future Psych bills.
Where's the fun in that, the sense of accomplishment, the pride in doing a job well, the pain in your back and the sweat on your brow? But then again OGs gotta eat.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 05:12 PM
  #321  
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Originally Posted by MiniMaybee
Where's the fun in that, the sense of accomplishment, the pride in doing a job well, the pain in your back and the sweat on your brow? .
Truthfully, I rather pay the $250 and go play golf...

I did wash the Mini today though...I parked it outside and it has rained 6 inches.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 05:56 PM
  #322  
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FWIW, a silver Porsche just got dropped off at my normal rate of $450 (for that car). The MINI and the Porsche aren't wildly different in paint area--so it's pretty good deal for the MINI owner--course if I opened a shop in OK and had to fly there to run it, the 50% discount likely wouldn't apply, lol.

As for BW application---applying it to the trim, then trying to stick tape to it will be fruitless. It won't stick. Course if you apply the BW to it first, the polish will come off a lot easier.

When I work on customer cars though, I generally do BW last because when I tape, I'm protecting plastic trim as well as the cracks and rubber trim from the polish. So taping is important to me.

BW can be used on just about any plastic.

Here is BW on an old Isuzu Tropper, BW applied to trim on left edge of door and not on door trim yet.







Originally Posted by Gumby!
Truthfully, I rather pay the $250 and go play golf...

I did wash the Mini today though...I parked it outside and it has rained 6 inches.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 06:43 AM
  #323  
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Originally Posted by OctaneGuy
I generally do BW last because when I tape, I'm protecting plastic trim as well as the cracks and rubber trim from the polish. So taping is important to me.

BW can be used on just about any plastic.
Thanks Richard. I will then do the BW last as I don't mind taping off for a polish/wax...

What is your tip for easily applying the BW, yet not getting it on the paint, especially on narrow strips, rain gutter, etc? Hope you are not going to tell me you tape everything off!

Amazing pic on that Izusu...grey to black...nice. I have a friend who has a 6 year old Land Cruiser and it has that mid panel trim/door ding guard, but it has some sort of coating or clear coat that appears to be wearing off. Wonder if BW can fix that? May be best to polish the rest of the coating off before BW.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 06:48 AM
  #324  
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If there is an obvious coating, BW may helped the worn part, but I doubt it will look completely even. BW works best on uniformly uncoated plastic.

As for the preventing BW on the paint---that's what the Trim Masking Card is for. You should have gotten one with your BW.

You use that as a border as you apply BW.

Richard

Originally Posted by Gumby!
Thanks Richard. I will then do the BW last as I don't mind taping off for a polish/wax...

What is your tip for easily applying the BW, yet not getting it on the paint, especially on narrow strips, rain gutter, etc? Hope you are not going to tell me you tape everything off!

Amazing pic on that Izusu...grey to black...nice. I have a friend who has a 6 year old Land Cruiser and it has that mid panel trim/door ding guard, but it has some sort of coating or clear coat that appears to be wearing off. Wonder if BW can fix that? May be best to polish the rest of the coating off before BW.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 07:53 AM
  #325  
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Originally Posted by OctaneGuy
As for the preventing BW on the paint---that's what the Trim Masking Card is for. You should have gotten one with your BW.

You use that as a border as you apply BW.
Thanks! The BW is due in today. Hopefully DP included the card.
 
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