Well, I'm waiting for a conference call, and of course my mind just can NEVER stop turning, so I'm already thinking about how I'll innagurate my new PC in the spring -- on my weatherbeaten 1999 Chevy Suburban!

Here's the description of Swirl from DP's web site:

"Prima Swirl is a general purpose polish for finishes in good to fair condition that need some TLC to get back to showroom condition. This polish reduces swirl marks, light scratches and oxidation. It deep cleans and polishes in one step. This polish applies best with a Paradise Orange pad.Abrasive Level: Moderate"

Sounds like a good place to start to me.

Questions for those that have used the Prima "Swirl":

1. My Suburban is a bright red with silver trim, and has moderate swirlies and seemingly minimal oxidation. It's also got a few scratches caused by toddlers with rock "crayons" (ugh), but I've minimized them with hand-polishing over the years - hopefully the PC will knock 'em out once and for all.

It's parked outside, but the Chevy paint seems fairly tough and I've gone over it a few times in the past (by hand) with Scratch-X, but the car's so large I don't feel like I've gotten an even ppolish in the past. There are also a few areas where some sort of black residue is streaked on the car (possibly from bicycle handlebar caps, I'm not 100% sure) that's so far resisted hand-polishing with both Scratch-X and a 3M-made scratch remover product. I plan to use a clay bar on the black stuff, but how does the Swirl compare to, say, Scratch-X? Is it more or less abrasive? The same? Should I possibly start with the Scratch-X (since I know it's fairly aggressive) and then move to Swirl, finishing with Amigo?

2. On Nano, my Hot Orange cabrio... I have light swirlies, mainly from using my duster and microfiber towels over the past several months - I've not actually POLISHED since July I think. Is Swirl TOO aggressive for paint in such a condition? Should I start with something less gritty? No need to remove more clear-coat than necessary, right?

BONUS QUESTION: Swirl/Amigo with a PC on OEM bonnet and Aesthetic Creations boot stripes - Deal or No Deal? I used Griot's polish via PC on the bonnet stripes in July and they really shined up nice, but I don't want to strip the black off. I like how the PC made them shine, though (they were kinda blotchy even after just a few weeks from the dealer).

I can't wait for the warm weather!

 

^^ here's my though on Swirl (no, i do not have first hand experience).

it's not a super abrasive polish but works similar to ScratchX. the
abrasives diminish as you work it into the paint...bascially a one-step
polish perfect for lightly swirled commuter cars.

it might be best to use Swirl but different pads.... DP orange for your
suburban and DP white for your Nano. if the orange pad does not
do the trick on your suburban, perhaps you need to use Prima Cut.

well, that's what i can only offer from the readings... and what im
planning to try with Swirl. I want a one-step polish for my commuters
and i believe Swirl and white pad will do the trick for me. if not,
i have the Griot Polishes1,2,3 so i can use either 1 or 2 in the first
pass if Swirl's not abrasive enough and finish with Swirl.

 

I only have one white (gentle) pad - can I clean it out after using the Swirl and safely use it to apply Amigo and/or Epic afterwards? I know I SHOULD have a dedicated pad for every chemical, but...

Great idea, Kenchan! I forget that the PADS have abrasive properties as well...

 

Black = right DP pad for Epic application

I think you'll find Swirl works very well with the Orange DP pad. That's what I've been using on my minivam restoration project.
Then I've used Finish with the white pad on areas where I really want to end with a mirror-finish - but I don't waste that on the crappy lower parts of the door panels, etc.

I personally wouldn't mix my polish pads and my wax application pads (even though with a good wash you'd probably be OK) just the thought of one having abrasive and one not... I have a dedicated black pad for Epic. And I just ordered a boatload of additional DP pads which should arrive today!

 

I need to do that.... the wife ordered the pads that came with my PC from someplace other than DP (she got a good deal with a tool box to carry everythign in). The ones she got, the fine pad is white, not black. I have time to order a set of pads from Heather I guess (if she'd finally dug out) - I need more Slick anyway.

(Sigh)... Money... where dost thou evaporate to? Alas... alas...
Spare Cash - I knew thee well.

 

I hope you ahve a lot of time to do that 99 Suburban with a PC!!

Got a well lit close up pictue of the finish? I could help you select a pad/chemical/speed for that. Remember to start with the most gentle products and move up from there.

Personally, I love a rotary and finish off my work with a Cyclo and PC with Blue Edge 2000 pads.

 

i personally use a dedicated pad for each chemical. especially between
Swirl and Epic you should because Swirl is water based where as Epic is
synthetic.

 

I second using a dedicated pad for each chemical.

I also suggest more than 1 of each pad, especially on a vehicle the size of a suburban. They will get clogged and become troublesome.
Remember to clean them frequently while polishing. A toothbrush works fine. Soak them in warm water with a little degreaser to clean them when you are finished.

My pad collection contains:
EDGE 2000 WAVE 6"
White - 6
Blue - 6
Green - 4
Yellow - 4

EDGE 2000 6"
White - 4
Blue - 2

EDGE 2000 WAVE 8"
Yellow - 2
Green - 2

EDGE 2000 8"
White - 2
Blue - 2

 

Uhm, are you saying that you clean your pads with a toothbrush spinning on a RO or on your rotary?? Cause almost nobody here is using a rotary.

 

You guys should start using rotary polishers.

Yes - clean the D/A pad wih a toothbrush. Hold it in your hand and brush away the residue.

 

Let me address this before it gets where I think its going Octaneguy.

There is no answer to a debate over which is better for my car, a Porter Cable or a Rotary?

This is like talking about which is a better chick magnet, a Hyundai or a Kia?

If the Mini guys like the PC, great, its an excellent tool. I'd estimate 90% of the hobbyist detailing community use only Porter Cables, they are safe, move slowly, and produce results.

Currently, I like to use a Makita rotary to do paint correction, paint leveling, heavy cut, and medium level polishing. (I am most likely to use SSR 3, SSR 2.5, Optimum Hyper Compound, or Optimum Compound with this tool) Then I move to the Cyclo and the PC to finish. (I most likely use SSR1, Menzerna Final Polish II, or Optimum Car Polish with these tools)
I cant spend the time using a Porter Cable to cut or attempt paint correction.
The Rotary is a great tool to do mass paint correction quickly, speed and heat are the key to a rotary. It generates lots of heat, and can also do the finest of swirl removal and polishing.
The PC is a great tool to clean up fine swirls in tight areas with a 4" pad. The Cyclo is a great tool to clean up similar damage in a larger area just a little faster/aggressive than the PC.

I use them all on just about every job.

 

I was reluctant to use a PC until I learned of its safeness and of its benefits. I am very reluctant to try a rotary because of the potential for catastrophe. Also since I have yet to encounter any paint issues on my MINI that could not be addressed by a PC, I might as well stick to playing with the baby toys instead of the nuclear weapons.
For you guys like Unregistered & OctaneGuy that do this kind of stuff for a living and have had lots of experience with these kind of tools, then you probably throw us weekend detailer hobbyists a shake of the head and a little smirk. I just feel a little uneasy with the rotary concept based on what I have read.

 

First of all there is no debate. Because you are new to the community, I was informing you that most people here on NAM do not use the rotary. Giving advice to people about using an advanced tool where most people are afraid of the PC is a bit over most peoples heads. Telling them and showing them how you use it is a different story. Everyone here has seen my restores and what can be done with the rotary.

I use the Makita rotary buffer and the PC is mostly a finishing tool. Use whatever tool you need to get the job done right. But just like wetsanding, it's not something I recommend to just anybody to do on their MINI.

 

I'd also be happy to help people break down that fear of the rotary.

2 weeks ago I wet sanded a 1997 Ferrari F50 that was a total repaint by a body shop I do work for. I should have taken "during" pictures to deomstrate the progress.
I have a metallic black Lamborghini Gallardo to do tomorrow (its being painted today), only a driver side repaint, but I will polish the entire car. I plan on using the rotary for 95% of the job. Seeing work done on complex angles like these cars have should boost confidence!

Not all cars need a buzz with a rotary! Dont run out and buy one.

 

I agree with this statement... I've seen a misused rotaty tool burn throgh paint in a few seconds flat (the rapidly-turning edge was accidentally pressed to the paint and it burned through literally before I could warn the person to back off...). That doesn't mean that it's not a good tool, but people have to understand that if not properly used the rotary can do a LOT of damage in a very short period of time. In the hands of a pro, it can do amazing things, but as you say, it's not the tool of choice for lightly-swirled cars...

I'm certainly no expert like you guys (I've never even TOUCHED a Ferarri in my whole life), but I can certainly say from experience that for the NON-PRO, the random orbital polisher (Porter Cable or "PC" in short-hand) is not only much safer and more forgiving, but it can net incredible results, even on dealer-fresh paint. My Hot Orange looked noticibly better after polishing, even when it only had less than a 1000 miles on the odometer. Combine it's forgiving operation with it's relatively low price and I think it's safe to say that the PC is the best choice for enthusiast-class users that aren't doing heavy-duty restorations and who just want to get their current cars in awesome shape.

PS - Unrigestered... pics of the Gallardo, please? LOVE those cars...

 

lol