Does anyone have advice on whether or not to use an orbital polisher? I'm especially concerned about swirling. If you think a polisher is a good idea, do you have any brand recommendations or is good-old Craftsman okay? Is there any specific bonnet that is better than another? And what about waxes?

 

I love my DA polisher...and so do my arms. I have a 7" Craftsman dual action orbital buffer. Sure it'd be nice to have a Porter DA, but I couldn't afford it at the time, and have found that the Craftsman works just fine.

Make sure to use fresh polish mits each time. You can resuse the terry cloth buffers. I replaced my pad with a better one from Griots Garage.

Only use the buffer to apply, not to remove. Removal should always be done by hand. Personally, when I do my whole routine (which is quarterly per year) I first wash with Dawn and dry. Then add a coat of paint cleaner with the buffer. hand wipe off. Then apply a coat of swirl remover with the buffer, hand wipe off. Then apply a coat of polish with the buffer, hand wipe off. Then another round of polish. Then hand apply and remove two coats of carnuba wax. I'm a Meguiars man myself. As for your own selection of products, anything that is "hand safe" can be used with a DA/Orbital buffer/polisher. There will be certain types of polishes that are usually called "machine" style polish. These require a rotary buffer/polisher, not an DA/Orbital so do not use them.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'm sad to say I'm a freaky **** clean idiot and have a shrine to car care products in my garage to prove it.

R

 

Davbret,

Wow! After your firm reaction to some of the paint protectant products some places use, reading that you use Dawn to wash your car with astonishes me!

I'm no detailing expert, but I can't tell you how many times and places I've read about not using dish soap on your car. I'm not flaming; I'm just surprised!

I guess the proof is in the puddin' - as they say. And there have been a few who have attested to the beauty of your vehicle.... Soooo, who am I to say?

 

Mini2Go,
I too use Dawn dish detergent around two to three times a year.
You will actually find that most pro's use this same method.
It strips all build up of wax from your paint. This is only a good thing when your ready to do a "very" thorough detail job.
One thing I did want to add to the above.....
I'm not sure how true this is but I've heard in several places that after a Dawn wash it's a good idea to go back and rewash using a car wash solution. This is supposed to balance the PH of the paint.... or something of this nature. Again... don't know how accurate this is but I figured I would throw it out there.
Happy Motoring,
SW

PS. Porter Cable all the way!!! hehe

 

Bingo, Sfiveten!

The Dawn is only to strip wax before a complete redetailing. Between compulsive attacks, I only use Meguiar's Gold Class car wash concentrate.

I wouldn't worry about washing with a normal carwash after using Dawn to strip it. The paint cleaner/polish/wax will MORE than bring the car's "PH" back to norm.

R

 

Gotcha. Thanks for the explanation guys - I was getting concerned that you were keeping some "big secret" from the rest of us! heehee.

It all adds up and makes sense.

*Note to self: Don't use dish soap to wash car unless you are prepared to deal with the reality that there will be very little - if any - wax left on the car.

 

I can attest that an orbital buffer is far gentler on your paint than hand application. I tried to refresh some paint on my old bug and cold not get the oxidation off with the buffer. When I applied moderate hand pressure, however, I removed the oxide quite easily. This reassured me that when I am working on good, paint, I am doing less harm than using elbow grease!

 

I do not recommend orbitals on a car less than 4 years old.

 

>>I do not recommend orbitals on a car less than 4 years old.

Because... ?

 

There is ABSOLUTELY no reasoning behind "not using orbitals on paint less than 4 years old". If that is the case, then you should not apply anything by hand in the first 4 years either. An orbital polisher is simulating by-hand application, that's all.

And rotary buffers have the ability to mess up your paint FAR more likely than an orbital...yet MINI uses rotary buffers RIGHT out of the paint baker!! Check out the MINI production movie...sure enough there's blokes using rotary buffers on the brand new cars.



R

 

Yes, rotary buffers are a lot more dangerous. However, training and experience can also allow a skilled individual to do a lot more with a rotary than an orbital. Skill and experience are key - and even then you can make a nasty mistake using a rotary.

 

>>Yes, rotary buffers are a lot more dangerous. However, training and experience can also allow a skilled individual to do a lot more with a rotary than an orbital. Skill and experience are key - and even then you can make a nasty mistake using a rotary.

I completely agree...but personally you couldn't GIVE me a rotary...I'm too afraid of them!

R

 

>>>>Yes, rotary buffers are a lot more dangerous. However, training and experience can also allow a skilled individual to do a lot more with a rotary than an orbital. Skill and experience are key - and even then you can make a nasty mistake using a rotary.
>>
>>I completely agree...but personally you couldn't GIVE me a rotary...I'm too afraid of them!

 

I own an orbital polisher but I use it rarely since I found "Mothers Reflections Premium Polish". That stuff is great and very easy to use. I use it about every 2 months and use "Mothers Calif. Gold Instant Detailer" in between. (NO I am not a Mothers salesman, just letting you know about some great products.)
Be careful with the orbital: it can make your car look great now, but using it too often can cause permanent swirl marks and strip the clearcoat away reducing the life of your paint job.

 

>>I own an orbital polisher but I use it rarely since I found "Mothers Reflections Premium Polish". That stuff is great and very easy to use. I use it about every 2 months and use "Mothers Calif. Gold Instant Detailer" in between. (NO I am not a Mothers salesman, just letting you know about some great products.)
>>Be careful with the orbital: it can make your car look great now, but using it too often can cause permanent swirl marks and strip the clearcoat away reducing the life of your paint job.


There it is...

also was told by a product manufacturer that using any sort of machinery on a new car is not recommended. Also, drying your car with a soft towel is not recommended either for the same reasons....even soft Terry towels leave swirl marks. Silicone squeegees actually work nicer. with a chamois to wipe excess.

 

...and let me guess, the "product manufacturer" sells squeeges and chamies?? Call me skeptical as I've used an orbital buffer for YEARS on multiple new cars and have always had the nicest paint of anyone around.

There really is no truth to that. Go to any body shop. They ALL use machine polishers on FRESH paint. Short of falling asleep durring application or giving it the kung-fu press of death into the paint...there's absolutely NO reason to worry when using an orbital.

R

 

Any machine, used improperly, can damage the paint surface. But, that said, I'm shocked to read that another appearance chemical manufacturer would tell you to NOT use a machine or a towel (when drying the surface).

Machines are perfectly safe, when used according to instructions, with proper products and bonnets. The foam bonnets are better than terry cloth since they're less likely to mar the surface. There are thick ones, and thin ones. The thick ones (usually blue in color for the 10" or so random orbitals) are preferable to the thin (usually yellow) ones.

A quality dual action machine like a Porter Cable 7424/7336 is a great machine, and gives you the option of using different types of pads on them with varying levels of aggressiveness, which can be useful for repairing marring of the paint surface. But, they are considerably more expensive. I have a Porter Cable, and use it frequently for jobs like removing spiderwebbing from the paint surface, and applying glazes and waxes.

For towels, use quality all cotton like Fieldcrest Cannon's Royal Velvet or Charisma. Remove the tags and wash and dry without any fabric softener. A better solution is a quality microfiber towel. Again, no fabric softener and don't combine in the washer or dryer with cotton towels, as the lint will contaminate the MF towels.

Silicone blades aren't really used by **** detailers (except on glass surfaces) because of the chance of marring the surface. Any small little piece of debris (pollen, dust, etc.) can become trapped between the edge of the blade and the paint surface. Since the entire amount of pressure is concentrated in this small strip less than 1/16" of an inch wide, it can cause the piece of debris to scratch the paint surface. Some folks even use an electric leaf blower to dry a vehicle.

I used my Porter Cable the day I brought my red S home. It was built August 30, and I picked it up September 24. The paint had swirl marks in it (and compound splatter in the jambs) where the factory had done some touch up. Working by hand, it would have taken days to remove those marks by hand. With the machine, less than an hour of work to correct their mistakes.

And, keep in mind the "swirl marks" are the result of improper bonnets, product or technique when using a rotary machine. I have never seen a random orbital or dual action machine introduce swirl marks to the paint. Since the bonnet or pad doesn't move in a circular motion, it's impossible.

Hope this helps.

_________________
forrest@mothers.com

 

I am not here to argue

No they do not sell towels or squeegees, they said that using an orbital is not recommended .... and for the exact reasons you all have stated.
They do not recommend using an orbital on a new car, you care about, if you have never used one before, they do not recommend towel drying... they actually recommend the spotless water system if you can get that. They in particular do not sell the spotless water chemicals....
I was very particular about my questions.... they also said a careful hand polish is all a new car needs. Be carefull with which wax strippers you use, they can harm the clearcoat and cause it to micro fracture.

that's all, hearing your pitches on Orbitals is nice, I might consider using one...Maybe I can learn on one of your Mini's?

 

Well put forrest. And I have to admit, I use a leaf blower on my car. It cuts about 3/5 of the water off instantly. Way cool.

And mightyMiniz, wasn't trying to ruffle any feathers. I'm just an **** freak that has used buffers for years and is quite passionate about them.

R

 

Remember the days when you would hear that paint had to cure for awhile before the owner could do anything to it? All of this confuses my old brain so I just use a good car wash, a clay bar occasionally, a wax that starts withthe letter Z, and my hands. It is, after all, a small car with lots of glass :smile: