Atlanta Professional Detailer and HandWasher Question
Aero,
I agree with bmwman here ..... You will have more satisfaction out of doing it yourself..... but it's up to you.
Don't know if it would be worth the drive or how close it would be but..... In Covington, GA on the east side of Atlanta... There is a great "Hole in the wall" detail place. I think it's still there....? Given that I live in Birmingham, AL..... Not sure.
But the place is called Hill Top detail. Relatively cheap but do VERY Good work.
They are located on Hwy 278 on the main strip through Covington. Right across the street from the Hospital.
Again.... You should consider doing it your self. It would be cheaper and more enjoyable.
SW
I agree with bmwman here ..... You will have more satisfaction out of doing it yourself..... but it's up to you.
Don't know if it would be worth the drive or how close it would be but..... In Covington, GA on the east side of Atlanta... There is a great "Hole in the wall" detail place. I think it's still there....? Given that I live in Birmingham, AL..... Not sure.
But the place is called Hill Top detail. Relatively cheap but do VERY Good work.
They are located on Hwy 278 on the main strip through Covington. Right across the street from the Hospital.
Again.... You should consider doing it your self. It would be cheaper and more enjoyable.
SW
I used to be a supervisor at a local car wash and now work at a high-end body shop. Through my experience I have found that hand/dish soap with a hand shamy works best. The hand shamy does a good job of pulling dirt away from the paint, unlike brushes that just rub the dirt into the paint.
Aerodragon,
Do Not Use dish washing detergent!!! This should only be used when you plan on Polishing and waxing the car immediately after. Dish washing detergent will pull all layers of protection off of your car! Also it messes up the PH balance of the paint. Resulting in more problems in the future.
If you do use a dish washing detergent to strip the car you will need to follow that up with another wash using a good car wash soap. This will balance the PH. Then you will need to Polish and Wax.
I wrote you a fairly detailed follow up to your last post on the same topic which was moved to "Detail 101" See here.... link.
For best results always use a product made for car washing.
If you have any questions about the above link feel free to ask.
Hope this helps.
SW
Note: I will be moving this topic over to "Detailing 101" tomorrow.
_________________
Motor On!!..... Mini Me!!
Do Not Use dish washing detergent!!! This should only be used when you plan on Polishing and waxing the car immediately after. Dish washing detergent will pull all layers of protection off of your car! Also it messes up the PH balance of the paint. Resulting in more problems in the future.If you do use a dish washing detergent to strip the car you will need to follow that up with another wash using a good car wash soap. This will balance the PH. Then you will need to Polish and Wax.
I wrote you a fairly detailed follow up to your last post on the same topic which was moved to "Detail 101" See here.... link.
For best results always use a product made for car washing.
If you have any questions about the above link feel free to ask.
Hope this helps.
SW
Note: I will be moving this topic over to "Detailing 101" tomorrow.
_________________
Motor On!!..... Mini Me!!
Domtom... are you kidding? I have known since I was a kid that dish soap strips the wax off the paint!
). Make sure to use a soft natural fiber cloth for washing and drying. I use old cotton undershirts that have been washed about a million times. Check out an auto parts store for more options.
I am guessing you want to take the car to a detailer so you are sure it is done right. Have some confidence my fellow motorer! You can do a very good job yourself and save $20+ ($50 here in Miami). Just do some reading up on this site and others and learn all that you can. Maybe one trip to the detailer will give you a chance to ask any questions you may have before you attempt it on your own.
-J
). Make sure to use a soft natural fiber cloth for washing and drying. I use old cotton undershirts that have been washed about a million times. Check out an auto parts store for more options.I am guessing you want to take the car to a detailer so you are sure it is done right. Have some confidence my fellow motorer! You can do a very good job yourself and save $20+ ($50 here in Miami). Just do some reading up on this site and others and learn all that you can. Maybe one trip to the detailer will give you a chance to ask any questions you may have before you attempt it on your own.
-J
Trending Topics
HELLO GENTS(OR MADAMS POSSIBLY)
I DONT KNOW DONTOM!!?? YOU MIGHT WISH TO EXAM YOUR CHEMICAL CABINET. YOU GET WHAT YOU PUT INTO IT. JUST BECAUSE YOU PUT "JOY" INTO THE BUCKET, DOES NOT MEAN WORK SATISFACTION. WHEN LIFE COULD BE SO EASY WITH THE PROPER TOOLS. WHAT DO YOU CLEAN THE RIMS AND TIRES WITH? THERE ARE MANY CHEMICAL COMPANIES AVAILABLE THAT DO MINIMUM WHOLESALE FOR DETAILING, YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK YOUR AREA.
MINI VINNIE
CHECK THIS DOWNLOAD FOR PROPER AUTOCARE.[img]null[/img][LIST ALRIGHT I CANT FIGURE OUT HOW TO SHOW A LINK TO GO TO
http://www.PROPERAUTOCARE.COM AND BUY SOME STUFF AND DOWNLOAD THE FREE DETAILER MANUAL. ITS PRETTY GOOD
I DONT KNOW DONTOM!!?? YOU MIGHT WISH TO EXAM YOUR CHEMICAL CABINET. YOU GET WHAT YOU PUT INTO IT. JUST BECAUSE YOU PUT "JOY" INTO THE BUCKET, DOES NOT MEAN WORK SATISFACTION. WHEN LIFE COULD BE SO EASY WITH THE PROPER TOOLS. WHAT DO YOU CLEAN THE RIMS AND TIRES WITH? THERE ARE MANY CHEMICAL COMPANIES AVAILABLE THAT DO MINIMUM WHOLESALE FOR DETAILING, YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK YOUR AREA.
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CHECK THIS DOWNLOAD FOR PROPER AUTOCARE.[img]null[/img][LIST ALRIGHT I CANT FIGURE OUT HOW TO SHOW A LINK TO GO TOhttp://www.PROPERAUTOCARE.COM AND BUY SOME STUFF AND DOWNLOAD THE FREE DETAILER MANUAL. ITS PRETTY GOOD
I'm not one to use these forums to push products, but I became a huge fan of the products from Sal Zaino (zainobros.com) when I purchased my PT 2 years ago... it's driven every day, and still looks like it just rolled out of the show room. It's a polish not a wax, goes on easy, and it goes on my Mini as soon as it gets here!
Editor Bob
Editor Bob
I wash mine with window washer liquid, then spray it with some new stuff called Eagle One Wax as U Dry, it's the best Ive ever used and I've been polishing cars for over 50 years. All that other polish and rub stuff is outa here!
I have a yellow with white roof and 17'' wheels... GGGRRRREAAAATTTT! You don't have to use Armoral or any of that other junk...Try it you'll love it. Right over the plastic...No swirls.. No peanut butter. And best of all!!! NO JELLY! Really! I had problems with swirls and with the black plastic going white until I found this Eagle 1 liquid. It is excellent, and I don't work for them. Ron
I have a yellow with white roof and 17'' wheels... GGGRRRREAAAATTTT! You don't have to use Armoral or any of that other junk...Try it you'll love it. Right over the plastic...No swirls.. No peanut butter. And best of all!!! NO JELLY! Really! I had problems with swirls and with the black plastic going white until I found this Eagle 1 liquid. It is excellent, and I don't work for them. Ron
sirron,
Is it just me or did you post this somewhere else on the board a while back?
Just wanted to add..... I've never heard of someone using Window Washer liquid.....
Are you sure that's safe for your paint? Does it strip the wax?
SW
Is it just me or did you post this somewhere else on the board a while back?
Just wanted to add..... I've never heard of someone using Window Washer liquid.....
Are you sure that's safe for your paint? Does it strip the wax?
SW
>>sirron,
>>Is it just me or did you post this somewhere else on the board a while back?
>>
>>Just wanted to add..... I've never heard of someone using Window Washer liquid.....
>>Are you sure that's safe for your paint? Does it strip the wax?
>>SW
It's full of Polymers or Polywogs or some magic stuff.
I'll let you know when LTL YELLO begins to look like a shortened DeLorean!
_________________
sirron
>>Is it just me or did you post this somewhere else on the board a while back?
>>
>>Just wanted to add..... I've never heard of someone using Window Washer liquid.....
>>Are you sure that's safe for your paint? Does it strip the wax?
>>SW
It's full of Polymers or Polywogs or some magic stuff.
I'll let you know when LTL YELLO begins to look like a shortened DeLorean!
_________________
sirron
I used to be the detailer at our BMW store about 4 years ago. These were my steps for very first time I detailed a specific vehicle:
1st- wash ALL the paint surfaces with DAWN dish detergent. DAWN dish detergent will strip the paint of ALL previous waxes or oils.
2nd- dry the car using either a synthetic chamois(I prefer the ABSORBER-can be purchased at any fine automobile parts store) or the method I prefer is a highquality leaf blower (210mph winds). Paint surfaces scratch easily, and the less you need to actually touch the paint the less blemishes there will be. Simply use the leaf blower to blow of the water. I do this in the shade or garage, so the sun can't form water spots. Water spots can actually act as a magnifing glass and burn tiny pin holes in the paint. The leaf blower is also good because it gets all the water from the nooks and crannies, you know what I mean: you spend all day cleaning and waxing and soon as you drive down the street the excess waters runs out of the nooks and crannies.
3rd- Use a quality spray wax(MOTHERS, Meguires, Zaino....) and use body clay on the entire outside painted finish-except for decaled areas. The clay your can buy at a quality automotive bodyshop supply store or and good automotive parts store(MOTHERS, MEGUIRES, ZAINO...). This process will strip the paint of any lodged debris that is actually stuck too or imbedded into the paint (great for removing bugs).
4th- Repeat step one and two.
5th- I use a good high quality orbital buffer(do not push down on the buffer, let the weight of the buffer do the job) and I use a good quality(see previously mentioned brands) paint cleaner(liquid). I go over the same panel a few times, let dry buff off with a good name brand white 100% cotten bath towel (these bath towels should be washed with LIQUID detergent, on hot and NO bleach and dried using the drier, fluff for softness. Using bleach or grainual detergent will scratch the paint.
6th- apply good wax(I use Meguires Yellow carnuba #26 liquid) The carnuba really gives depth to the paint. I can be applied by hand or by orbital buffer. If applying by hand, apply the wax using straight motions, not circular. Circular motions tend to promote swirl marks. The orbital will promote much more even coverage and won't waste as much. Let dry more at least 30 minutes. Buff with bath towels, and re-apply as many coats as you wish, I do at least 5 per session. Carnuba like any other wax will break down in heat and over time. I wax my vehicle a minimum of twice a month. for the amount of money spent on todays cars, it only makes sense to take good care of them. Waxes that promise 1 year protection are falicies and should not be trusted to last that long. ALWAYS apply wax in a garage or well shaded area. You want the wax to bond to the paint not be burnt to it. Follow these steps often and you will enjoy the gleaming finish for years to come. Remember, high speed buffing is always the last resort. highspeed buffing removes your clearcoat and that is what provides protection for your paint against the elements.
1st- wash ALL the paint surfaces with DAWN dish detergent. DAWN dish detergent will strip the paint of ALL previous waxes or oils.
2nd- dry the car using either a synthetic chamois(I prefer the ABSORBER-can be purchased at any fine automobile parts store) or the method I prefer is a highquality leaf blower (210mph winds). Paint surfaces scratch easily, and the less you need to actually touch the paint the less blemishes there will be. Simply use the leaf blower to blow of the water. I do this in the shade or garage, so the sun can't form water spots. Water spots can actually act as a magnifing glass and burn tiny pin holes in the paint. The leaf blower is also good because it gets all the water from the nooks and crannies, you know what I mean: you spend all day cleaning and waxing and soon as you drive down the street the excess waters runs out of the nooks and crannies.
3rd- Use a quality spray wax(MOTHERS, Meguires, Zaino....) and use body clay on the entire outside painted finish-except for decaled areas. The clay your can buy at a quality automotive bodyshop supply store or and good automotive parts store(MOTHERS, MEGUIRES, ZAINO...). This process will strip the paint of any lodged debris that is actually stuck too or imbedded into the paint (great for removing bugs).
4th- Repeat step one and two.
5th- I use a good high quality orbital buffer(do not push down on the buffer, let the weight of the buffer do the job) and I use a good quality(see previously mentioned brands) paint cleaner(liquid). I go over the same panel a few times, let dry buff off with a good name brand white 100% cotten bath towel (these bath towels should be washed with LIQUID detergent, on hot and NO bleach and dried using the drier, fluff for softness. Using bleach or grainual detergent will scratch the paint.
6th- apply good wax(I use Meguires Yellow carnuba #26 liquid) The carnuba really gives depth to the paint. I can be applied by hand or by orbital buffer. If applying by hand, apply the wax using straight motions, not circular. Circular motions tend to promote swirl marks. The orbital will promote much more even coverage and won't waste as much. Let dry more at least 30 minutes. Buff with bath towels, and re-apply as many coats as you wish, I do at least 5 per session. Carnuba like any other wax will break down in heat and over time. I wax my vehicle a minimum of twice a month. for the amount of money spent on todays cars, it only makes sense to take good care of them. Waxes that promise 1 year protection are falicies and should not be trusted to last that long. ALWAYS apply wax in a garage or well shaded area. You want the wax to bond to the paint not be burnt to it. Follow these steps often and you will enjoy the gleaming finish for years to come. Remember, high speed buffing is always the last resort. highspeed buffing removes your clearcoat and that is what provides protection for your paint against the elements.
To classicmini,
How many hours does your procedure take? Mine takes 20 minutes-outside, and I do it every Friday. whether it needs it or not
No orbital buffers, no swirls, no white residue on the black plastic, no peanut butter, and very little cost to boot!
" I Did It My Way".
The leaf blower is a good idea, it will cut my time down to 15 minutes, unless it takes me 10 minutes to start the blower!
Ron
How many hours does your procedure take? Mine takes 20 minutes-outside, and I do it every Friday. whether it needs it or not
No orbital buffers, no swirls, no white residue on the black plastic, no peanut butter, and very little cost to boot!
" I Did It My Way".
The leaf blower is a good idea, it will cut my time down to 15 minutes, unless it takes me 10 minutes to start the blower!
Ron
On the Bimmers it depends on what model of course, but I would say on any mid sized brand new car this process could de accomplished in say 1 hour and 1.5 hours. Depending on how particular you are. If you store the car in a garage that will make your tasks much easier. I really enjoy working on my car as well as cleaning it so time really isn't an issue for me. This is the exact same process I use on my very own cars: 1999 Camaro SS (black), 2000 Trans Am WS6 (navy blue metallic), and 1998 Camaro Z28(bright red). I look at it this way I have spent $29k for my 99 SS brand new, 24k for the WS6 8 months old, and 13k for the 98 Z28 3 yrs old. That comes in the neighborhood of 60-70k with interest. Thats a lot of money to spend on domestic cars, and if I can't afford to spend 9 hours total per month, 8 months a year (stored for 4 months) then I feel I shouldn't own them. I believe in the idea of taking good care of good things. Maintenance of the exterior/interior is just as important to me as mechanical meaintenance.
Sirron- am I misunderstanding you by assuming there is something wrong with SEARS? I have been using this system for year with excellant results. If you take really good care of your vehicle you can skip some of the steps. Sure its no 10 minute job, but when I spend 25k on a car, or even 5k on a car, I think that money I worked for is worth some extra time and care. I don't know about you but I repect the items I spend my money on. I still haven't figured out the correct fertilizing formula to grow money trees in my back yard, so until I do I guess I will have to waste my time taking care of my investments. I posted my process so somone can see how others out there wax and polish their vehicles, not to say my way is the only way or best way, but a way that works for me.
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