Does anyone know much about the "Ultimate Detailing Machine" orbital buffer on the market ? Thinking about getting a PC 7425 but keep hearing about this UDM model. I would love to hear from someone that has one. Thanks for any info !

 

I have one. Seems well made. Quiet and sturdy. Does a good job. I do not like it as much as my old 10 inch one. I prefer bonnets for some aspects of polishing/waxing/caring versus the pads.

 

Sounds like a dressed up 7425 PC
http://www.autogeek.net/ultimate-det...FRsIWAodqm5y7w

Mark

 

An Ultimate Detailing Machine or Porter Cable 7424 Car Polisher is the quick, easy and safe way to polish your automobile.

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-.../udm-guide.pdf

 

Most of the people I know have the PC so I know that it's a great product. I'm going to talk it over with Octainguy !

 

Wow, nice kit. Thanks for the heads up. Need to talk to the boss.

 

It's a step up from the PC. Little more power, but not quite as much as a rotary. I've heard there is a small chance of burning through clear coat (very small), but not as much as a rotary. Pro detailers say it vibrates ALOT more than the PC

edit: oh yeah, autogeek has the PC on sale this week for $109 if you didn't want the kit mentioned above (which is a killer deal!)

 

I have never noticed any vibrations from the unit. Maybe a hit and miss thing.

 

I have both the UDM and the PC. The UDM with 5 inch or max of 6 inch pads works best. The 6.5" pad vibrate too much.

Don't judge a deal by the price. I personally dislike the CCS pads. But get the deal if you like them.

IMO, the PC or the UDM are great tools. The UDM is newer and does offer more power, and matched with the right pads works great. I sell the UDM as well, but more people buy the PC than UDM from me when given the choice.

Because the UDM is more powerful, it does have the potential to burn the paint when matched with the right pad, chemical, and right scenario. Yes I've heated up a panel with the UDM to the point of saying--Ouch that's hot! Whereas a PC wouldn't have done that.

 

Well, that's coming from mobil detailers who get furious when their wheel cleaner has to sit for 5 minutes before rinsing, or that the wheel needs to be wet first, or because the product dusted too much, or that the sealant only lasted for 1 month rather than 5 - 6 months, or because a wax has to dry to a haze first, so take it as you will. I looked into it briefly but then remembered there's nothing wrong with my PC

I would think that the type of pad being used would have a effect on vibration. ^^^edit: beaten by a second!

 

Haha Darkness and I have a habit of posting at the same time...yes, the size of the pads make ALL the difference with the UDM in term of vibration.

 

Here is a little bit of a curve ball; I have a PC, UDM, and just got a Flex XC3401VRG to try out. I am primarily a rotary user, so I don't use the PC or UDM much other than to give lessons or occassionally apply sealants. I think of the three the Flex is definitely the most rotary like; it has a ton more power than the PC or UDM, but is still an RO, so it has the inherent benefit of being easier to use/safer. I *do* think you could cause damage with it though if you pushed it too hard; unlike the UDM and PC it doesn't bog down. (yes, I think you could burn with the UDM too if you tried really hard). The real downside to the Flex is price, it's priced like a rotary and more difficult to find. But it definitely does better correction.

Anyway, just thought I'd mention it since it seems like an option for guys looking at an RO that don't want to deal with the PC's kind of anemic motor, vibration, etc.

 

Octane Guy, why do you dislike the CCS pads? I've started using them becuase my old pads with the flared edges put polish where I didn't want it if I blinked for a second. I like the way the CCS pads are performing so far, but they like to do the texas side-step with me all day which is kind of annoying. Just curious since you work a PC everyday where I only do it twice a week.

 

Picus, what country are you in?? The Flex looks pretty cool. I suppose if we want to throw out other options, the Cyclo is also similar in operation to the RO.

I don't like the very reason the CCS pads were designed for---those pockets bug the hell out of me! It keeps product in there and makes it impossible to clean the pads when they get saturated--well impossible by applying a towel to a spinning pad--which is how I clean my pads while working.

For the most part, I don't have issues with product splatter that would necessitate the change of pads and especially not so with the PC. Flat pads baby!!!!

re: Texas side step and flared edges??
Flared edges as in the VC (Variable Contact) pads??? I don't like those either, lol. Well they are ok on the PC, but on the rotary, I still like flat pads best for maximum control and best results for me.

 

I spray mine with a pad cleaner and then rinse them out and they come out pretty clean quickly, unless they are really caked with product. They take forever to dry though!

argh, I meant curved edge (unless they're the same thing). I always struggled next to a piece of trim or something not paint and would run that curved edge right over that sucker. I like the CCS since they are flat (well the 6.5" ones I buy are) and can control where I'm putting the product much better. Sometimes, though, they randomly decide "well I'm gonna go over here now!" and jet off one direction and come back real quick, which I heard someone call the texas side step.

 

These are VC pads

http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/foampads_var.html

If you're worried about trim, stick a piece of blue painters tape over the trim, and now you don't have to worry.

 

Yes, I have a few of those lying around (my first pads I think!). They were good, but I liked the flat pads alot better when I got ahold of some.

Yeah I need to be doing the blue tape thing, at least on our mini's. Everytime I hit the trim with a polisher it's always "well, that was next on my to do list anyway "

 

Well I was pointing out the VC that I don't like, lol. But even the CCS pads aren't flat. They are flat and dimpled. yuck.

re: trim
Haha, yeah, the thing to watch out is that on horizontal trim pieces--on the doors for example, if you polish right up to them, without taping them, you then push polish into the cracks. Slap a strip of tape there first and you won't leave any polish residue behind.

 

cheapest I see is $129

 

http://www.autogeek.net/poca746varap.html

$109.99

 

I tried the CCS pads this last time and they were okay, except they flung polish everywhere. I do like them better than VC pads though.

 

Ah ok

 

Well if you're going to buy a PC for the first time and you want it from Autogeek, then atleast get this kit.
http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-pad-kit.html

For the $109.99 kit, you still need to add a backing plate and foam pads, so it's not usable in that configuration.

Then add a PC guard for $10 and my One Grip for $20 or $30 for the kit of PC Guard, OneGrip, and mounting bolts--not listed online yet--and you've got yourself a complete PC combo kit.

 

I am in Canada. Good point on the Cyclo. I don't own one of those but have used one and it is a good machine. It's a little awkward (to me) but the correction was good. I haven't used the Flex a lot because it's hard to experiment on custom cars (so I just go for the tried and true Makita), but so far I am liking it. I am kind of notoriously hard to please with new products, but I think it's going to do well if they can get it into North America more easily.

I *totally* agree. I use flat pads too, but find that is less and less common. I don't like the way the CCS pads finish either; I always felt they induce hologramming more easily than flat pads. LC actually sent me a whole set of VC pads to try out too, I felt bad telling them I really didn't like them :/