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After almost 20 years in Volkswagens, I’ve finally changed brands. Life in my 2015 Golf R was nice, but was becoming a bit boring. The car was GREAT while I owned it, but in its own German way, it became meh. Uber reliable, fast and handled great though and nary a problem with the car since new.
So with just shy of 100k miles on the R, last week I sold it off and bought a Pepper White 2013 Mini Cooper R56 6-speed base. I’ve driven the Mini for about a week and I totally have a smile on my face. I’m back to loving the drive. Well, replacing the drivers side brake light sort of sucked on day 4, but at least installing new Silverstar(?) brighter headlight bulbs was easy. Besides, I needed to buy trim tools anyway.
Since I’ve been driving fairly high horsepower cars for most of my time with a VW (R was ~350 HP), the philosophy of the Mini Cooper and momentum being your friend, not high horsepower, really had me intrigued when I started looking. Stock, the Mini power isn’t neck snapping and never will be, so I’ll be focusing on handling and looks primarily, but will also have a bit of comfort in the mod list too.
On day ~2, I bought a Sirius Onyx at Best Buy, and the cable from CD International Technlogy. Install is currently set for this coming Friday.
Day 4 had me replacing brake lights and installing new headlight bulbs. After I dropped the lamp inside of the tail light assembly, I bought trim tools to take everything apart. A couple of barked knuckles later, both brake lights were working perfectly. Oh and while I was at it, in installed new headlight bulbs for a bit brighter view at the front. I’ll put new front bulbs on my annual maintenance list too as the brighter bulbs burn out more quickly too.
At ~day 5, I ordered a hitch and an Alta 22mm RSB from outmotoring.com - Aaron was great on the phone too. . Both should be here Tuesday. I’ll have Rack Attack in Golden, CO do the hitch install and my mechanic friend Todd install the RSB. While my R had a 2” receiver installed, the 1UP bike rack required new parts to convert to 1.25” for the MC hitch. 1UP parts should be here Tuesday.
I’m a bit concerned with the LCI reverse/backup lights, being disconnected while the hitch is on, but frankly no one would EVER see them with the hitch on anyway. Personally, I’m curious whether the pre-LCI R56 brake lights could be retrofitted- so if anyone knows whether that’s possible, please post it here.
Since the front bumper has never been drilled for a license plate (I ‘think” it was a PA car...), tonight I ordered my standard license plate bracket from slybrackets.com. Great product and I’ve used them for years on my previous Golfs - both GTI’s & R’s. I’ll have it on hand for when I actually get plates too.
While Todd does the rear sway bar, it’ll be prime time to install/replace the NM Engineering Torque Arm Insert and the Powerflex upper motor mount. Those will be ordered early next week and I’ll time the install for all three when I have all three in hand.
Next on the list will be the black slat grill again from outmotoring.com and a new shifter ****. Plan is to keep much of the chrome and not black anything out.
What strikes me is the contrast between the MC & Golf. The Golf is modern, sleek and over engineered, and the MC is engineered to be quirky. After driving the MC for a week or so, I find the MC to be almost a modern old car. It almost seems to be an oxymoron car - I mean, in many aspects, the car is actually engineered to seem old - not cheep, but old - if that even makes any sense...
In July, once my bank account recovers a bit, I plan to have installed ceramic tint on the windows - including both sunroofs. Best price I have locally (best quality too) is almost $900 for everything - so it could come in phases.
Rota RB’s will be next on the list, but I’ll wait until this Fall when I put Blizzacks on the old rims - or I’ll put good all seasons on the new rims. The plan is to do the suspension when I buy the new rims/tires. KW Yellows and TSW springs are the limit on the suspension - due to snow and crappy roads here in the Denver metro.
The current wheels/tires have the speedo at 3 MPH low at 60 MPH. Haven’t really decided between 15” or 16” wheels. If 15” 205x55/15 will be the tire choice. With 16’s, it’ll be 205x45/16 tires. Plan is to not lower it much (.5” is the TSW/Yellow combo).
Beyond that it’s really new brake pads (EDC, Hawk or Carbotech). I’ll likely do the air intake silencer swap from VIP Motorsport and a K&N panel filter versus a true CAI at some point, and I “may” have my local muffler shop build a 2” cat back exhaust with a Magnaflow muffler for me.
I’ve attached pics of the R the day I sold her, and of the MC the day I picked him up. I know cars (for guys) are often female, but after driving the MC for a day, I decided that his name is Paul (from the movie “Paul the Alien”).
I think the name suits the car fine and the GF agrees wholeheartedly!
Any way, thanks for reading...
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Jun 29, 2021 at 04:14 PM.
Reason: Changing to a build thread...
Cobbled together the SiriusXM Onyx in the car today. Pink SMB connector was in the passenger footwell, though I couldn’t get to it with just the fuse door removed. I ended up pulling the footwell trim about halfway along the bottom door sill.
Whole thing took about 5 minutes for the antenna, Another 5 minutes to set it in the passenger cup holder. ~10 minutes for the activation code to be received and the radio could switch channels.
Here’s the first mod on the list completed! Final install will happen when I receive the Angled Proclip. Regretfully it’ll be a bit as it’s currently out of stock at Proclips. I’ll not pull of the clear protection sticker until I get the Proclip and installation is final.
Hitch and RSB will be installed Tuesday of next week... Still working on whether there is a backup light solution with 2007-2010 taillights in a R56 LCI. Help!?!?
BTW, standard audio still isn’t the best quality. At least I have reliable music while driving the Colorado mountains. Maybe new speakers will help?
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; May 20, 2021 at 06:49 PM.
We’ll, still no Proclip hanger joy, but I did manage to get it attached without it falling out of the cup holder on corners. I removed the rubber bottom in the cup holder and peeled the adhesive protector off the Onyx mount. It’ll do until I receive the final mount. Oh an I’m still not pulling the Onyx protection plastic off until I get the Proclip mount.
Looks a bit better for now.
Next up is the hitch install. Went in easy enough and I didn’t bugger up the attachment hardware or the car. I’ve still not figured out a backup light alternative while the hitch is being used (LCI backup light module is removed when using the hitch), but I have several ideas for a permanent solution - all without buggering up the bumper cover with more holes.
Next (same day) my friends Todd, Tim and I installed Alta 22mm rear sway bar. Shocks were replaced pretty recently (but not upgraded with premium components), so I’ll pass on shocks for the moment. Maybe I’ll get the TSW springs next month or wait and get the shocks/spring to install at the same time. We’ll see what the budget looks like in June/July.
RSB Install went pretty easy. Some of the hardware wasn’t the same as listed on the install instructions. Primarily it was the rear subframe bolts were reverse torx head bolts - but the tools were on hand so no biggie.
After the install and many thanks to some very great people for a job well done, I took the Mini up the canyons for a quick test. WOW! On the middle setting, the rear turns in nicely now. Curves with awkward camber no longer upsets the car either. It feels much more planted through tight S or switchback curves too. I do feel the road bumps a bit more than I did before, but it’s just a bit firmer in back than before the new sway bar install
With the new RSB, I can feel the stock tires rolling on the sidewall in fast sharp corners. Wider rims/tires are the plan, but nothing radical - just better handling when driving towards the limit.
Took another drive with one bike loaded up this morning. Mini handles the added bike/rack weight with no issues - no creaks/groans from anything either.
First I received the lower grill chrome rod. What a rinkey-dink hunk of plastic junk that is…. Anyway, it is now installed. I hope it stays on…
Pardon the bugs too.
Next one happened on the way to the GF’s house. TPMS went off earlier today. Checked all the tire pressures and the right front was about 2 lb low. Hmmm. Dug in the manual on how to reset the TPMS (PITA!), But, it did work. For an hour or so at least. On the ~30 mile drive, TPMS went off. Same wheel. Yes, I do have the spare on the car, but I’m unsure if I carry the wrench needed to undo the bolt that holds the spare. I’ll look later…
Anyway, I googled auto parts stores and found one ~1 mile away. Auto-Zone here I come.
Seems I picked a hefty 1.5” screw in the tire. So now I have a roadside tire repair kit in the car. Need to remind myself to check for the wrench.
Now a compressor and rubber plug kit with the tools will reside in the car. Didn’t use the slime, just the compressor…
Dang, I really need to see if I have the wrench in my car to let the spare down. Ugg!
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Jun 2, 2021 at 06:12 AM.
Today, I started hacking away at my LCI backup light in order to get the backup lights to work and not have light out codes on the dash. BTW, I also ordered a replacement light housing in case I bugger this up something awful!
I've also ordered a set of 4 pin automotive connectors from Amazon and waterproof (heat shrink & glue) butt connectors. I figured that the Amazon items would ship while all my glue/RTV/epoxy is drying/curing and I can still work while they are in transit. That means that I have a few days left to go (and figure out how to waterproof/weatherproof and still be able to get the bulbs out, so...
I know the initial construction/cuts looks a bit ugly, but the mock up is pretty much what I was going for. After the Dremel, I finished of the edges with a bastard file so everything looks a bit professional now. Filled the red end light gap with black RTV (actually gasket material so it'll get harder than regular RTV, is cut-able/file-able when fully cured - but the waterproof-ness was uber important for the long haul.
This weekend will be soldering the wires to the lamp circuit runs and attaching through-hole bungs through the hole I'll have to drill (then RTV) to run the wires. Now I need to wait/be patient until the first round cures so I can continue with more RTV & epoxy to fill the holes/gaps in the housing and still get it apart to replace the bulbs. When all the connectors show up I'll finish the wiring on the car. Hopefully everything will be waterproof so the lights don't fail on me with the bulbs good and I can still replace the bulbs if one or more goes out over time.
Just a quick update- no pics because it’s raining outside…
Picked up a couple more screws due to the ongoing construction around Denver. Screws were BIG in such a small tire tread patch (175/65R15). Just didn’t trust that tire anymore, so I had a set of Yokohama YK740 GTX tires from Discount Tire sized in 195/60R15. Man-o-man, they sure have grip. I still may ultimately go with Blizzaks on these rims this Winter, but we’ll see how they do in the snow first. I’ll do bigger tires/wheels after the new year. For now, the tires have great grip and are a bit bigger. They sure ride nice too…
With the new tires, the car feels more balanced. With the stock size tires, the RSB in the middle position was almost too much. Tires hated 90 degree turns at 35ish+ MPH as the squealed and squirmed something awful. New tires hold great on the same turns and I could probably push them to ~40 ish on the same turns. When I get the new parts install completed, I’ll switch it to the stiffest position and see how it drives. Once bigger tires/wheels are installed, I’ll probably want it in the stiffest position anyway. Also seems to drive from the rear more than it did. Currently at 36 psi in all 4 tires.
Today, I ordered the DDM intake, Powerflex torque arm bushings (large & small) and TSW jack points - all from Way Motor Works. Received a FedEx tracking number already. Should be here mid next week. Time to schedule more Todd & Co time in his garage. Next part round will be the VIP exhaust at $599 + shipping. Now, I do know that the HP/Torque gains are minimal with the DDM & exhaust upgrades, so while I’ll hope for more power, I’m not expecting much. For me, it is about better throttle response and a bit of sound while driving. I’m a music on, windows down driver. I also like to hear my car too.
Still haven’t decided on which shocks or coil overs yet either. Koni FSD shocks are in the running, as are the KW/TSW coil overs from WMW. I’m really unsure if I want to lower the car - it’s pretty low already. Visually, I like it lowered (had a storage unit trip already and stuffed the car full of books in boxes - measured at 1” lower, so…), but the Denver roads frankly suck, so stock ride height may just stay. What I don’t know is whether the KW/TSW coil overs from WMW can be set at stock height or not. Perhaps a call to Way is in order.
Oh, I did receive the Proclip mount too. Haven’t had the wiring professionally installed yet, but soon. It actually looks great and works great too. I’m hoping that the screen glare goes away once the tint is installed. Speaking of tint…
Finally, it’s TINT TIME! Monday is the appointment. All five windows and both sunroofs. Ceramic is still the plan, not doing the windshield though. With so many rock chips happening year ‘round in the Denver Metro, it’s really not worth the effort because windshields are generally replaced annually anyway. Oh and it’ll be a bit cheaper as they took off the price of one of the sunroofs because I’m doing everything at once. Got to love discounts when it’s a quality shop doing the work!
Last, but not least, the rear light project is progressing, albeit slowly. Man that gasket RTV takes quite a while to cure when it is really glob’d on. One side light is ready for soldering and wiring. I figure I have another week or two to get it finished up. I did receive the ~8” hitch extension to use with the 1UP bike rack though. It sticks out about two inches too much too, so I’m looking at a ~6” (5 3/4”) version that I think will be better and that I can leave on all the time. Just trying to get the receiver end closer to the bumper cover - and not stick out so far. It looks a bit like my Mini has a (mini) tail…
I’ll post Onyx, tint & tire pics next week.
Cheers!
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Jun 26, 2021 at 10:47 AM.
Intake didn’t arrive today, same for the WMW short jack blocks and motor mounts. Maybe tomorrow. :( New black slat grill and blackjack side scuttles are expected sometime next week.
But the tint turned out GREAT! 30% ceramic on all 5 windows and ceramic limo tint on both sunroofs. MUCH cooler car (air temp not visuals) in hot summer weather. But, I think the 30% goes great with the black roof and accents too…
Today, I did the exhaust at BDM (Metro Denver muffler shop). Talked with Ron yesterday, explained what I was after - more volume, free flow, deep tone and no raspy tones - I suggested a Magnaflow & 3” pipes. He suggested a resonator back set of 3” tubes, a Flowmaster DBX (laminar flow muffler , more info here:
Here’s Paul coming off the lift. And for $300 out the door, I couldn’t have asked for more! Sound is deep and is exactly what I was looking for - and no drone either - just deep, great sound. Engine does rev a bit easier, and has just a hint of burbles on deceleration, but my calibrated butt dyno says, no power was really added.
Today, I also received the Brophy hitch extender. It’s shorter than the Curt, 1UP and most of the others I found. With the Outmotoring hitch, the end of the receiver is just outward of the bumper cover. My Mini no longer has a (mini) tail! All good…
I’ll post better pics later after the intake, scuttles & grill are installed. July 4th weekend camping trip is happening now and the iPad is at 6% battery. Besides, I want to drive the car some more. I just love the new exhaust!
Cheers,
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Jun 30, 2021 at 09:20 PM.
Quick update (before I’m out the door for the camping trip - and no, we’re not taking the Mini this time).
Installed the DDM intake yesterday. WAY different than stock. I’d also say the if anyone does an exhaust, I’d do the intake first. Exhaust note changes significantly from pre-intake install to post-install.
Yep, as everyone says, the DDM is/can be a loud intake. It’s not necessarily a bad thing that it’s louder either.
Pre-intake, all my noise was exhaust. Post-intake, it’s a mix between the two. With the stock intake, the exhaust sounded excellent. With the intake, the exhaust note is definitely throatier. For you musicians out there, it still has bass, but there are definitely some mids going on now too.
With the DDM, the engine revs more freely too. Throttle response isn’t weber downdrafts quick, but response IS better. As is the built-in over rev when shifting. Throttle “seems/appears” to be more directly connected to actual revs and not so delayed or computer managed as it was stock.
For the moment I’m torn between going back to stock with a K&N and a VIP tube versus the DDM. I may try the VIP out and then connect it to the DDM if I keep the intake. Jury is definitely still out though.
If one goes with the DDM and not an exhaust, I do think that you’d be missing out on an overall freer flowing “system”, but without any real HP/Torque gains on a non-S car, I do have to wonder whether a louder sound is worth going down the rabbit hole. For now, both are staying, but I’m keeping my stock parts in case my mind changes.
I will also say that with the revs being more free, the whole experience has been worth it.
Oh and for those wondering, yes the driver can be loud and rambunctious or calm and reserved on the tones produced. Take your time accelerating and those in the cabin really wouldn’t be able to tell much difference my car and stock. However, put your foot to the floor and conversion in the car pretty much stops until the car is at speed and the driver is done with the foot to the floor bit.
Of course I’ve driven the car daily as these projects have gone on. My son, another gear-head car guy, has only driven my car a few times and none since the intake and exhaust install. He said that the car was definitely peppier than from when he last drove it. He also LOVED the intake and exhaust sound. Guess I did pretty good… Oh and even he heard the exhaust burbles, so I’m not totally losing my mind either.
Now you all go out and have a safe, fun, happy Independence Day Holiday. For all of us that served our country, Thank You. Celebrate with all the love and passion we all have for this great nation.
So, camping was awesome! Lots of fresh mountain air, wildlife, and no cell phones or iPads. Bliss…
But, we all had to come back to our J.O.B.S. and some even had to work today, including me. Oh well, it wasn’t a full day of working, so that is some level of solace.
Here is Paul again with the Yokohama 195x60R15’s, the new tint and the new black upper slat grill.
And the new scuttles.
A better shot of the new/shorter hitch extension. It actually tucks up to the bumper cover nicely.
A better view of the rear & exhaust.
And the Onyx on the bracket. I’ll get the wires tucked and the install professionally finished soon.
Once I get actual plates, I’ll install the Sly Bracket on the front so I don’t have to drill holes in the bumper. More to come.
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Jul 5, 2021 at 02:49 PM.
Still not satisfied with the intake sound situation, but I’m close. Please remember, I’ve added a custom exhaust with a Flowmaster DBX muffler. Love the tone & burbles. Wanted to add an intake to get rid of the go pedal lag and get all I can from the NA engine.
First, I added the DDM intake. Around town the DDM sounds great. Intake sound does overpower the exhaust note quite a bit after about 2800 rpm. Definitely adds horsepower/torque, how much I’ll never know, but what I noticed is that at highway speed on level road and in 6th, I press the go pedal and the car accelerates enough to pass slower cars. With the stock intake & exhaust, I couldn’t do that - at all.
This week I added the VIP 2.0 intake pipe that eliminates the stock intake muffler. Much more sound and it feels even more peppy. Still easy to pass on the interstate without down shifting. It does get a bit obnoxious on long interstate drives. IMHO, at ~80+ MPH (interstate driving), this combination gets a bit too loud for my tastes though. Not necessarily drone, but a bit loud after a while.
Today, I installed the stock airbox with only the VIP 2.0. Intake sound with the VIP tube only wasn’t loud at all. BUT throttle response was pretty good and much better in sport mode. Now I can hear both the intake and the exhaust - and that’s with the stock filter (K&N will be here Tuesday).
As with the DDM, and DDM/VIP, rpm dropped to ~800 rpm on start and 600-700 rpm once warm. FWIW, stock intake & exhaust, idle was 1100 rpm at startup and a smidge around 900 rpm once warm. Not really empirical data, but mpg went up ~1.5-2 mpg with the DDM and with the DDM/VIP combo.
So, what did I learn from all this?
Well, if one is keeping the stock exhaust, an intake alone won’t give a free breathing engine. Careful selection of an exhaust will get more air through the engine- and it doesn’t need to cost a fortune. Mine was $300 The DDM is a great intake and coupled with a free flowing exhaust, power is definitely added. The engine revs pretty darn freely too.
DDM & VIP (tube only or 2.0 version) gets really loud and the butt dyno doesn’t feel anything different from the DDM alone. Though there is lots more mid range power from ~3000 rpm to ~5500/6000 rpm with the DDM/VIP, less with the VIP 2.0 alone. The bad news is that if you’re driving a bunch on the interstate at ~75-85 mph, it’ll be loud. For driving hours and hours, it’ll get on your nerves like a toothache.
But there is some good news here too. The VIP 2.0 gives much the same performance as the DDM without the loudness. I’m thinking those that did the intake muffler tape job and a K&N likely have it just right. While I didn’t do the tape job, the VIP tube does give MOST (definitely not all) of the performance gains that the DDM does, but at a lower volume. Now to drop the K&N filter in to see if I get more/all the DDM gains without the sound volume of the DDM.
If anyone is interested in buying my DDM at a discount, reach out.
👍
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Jul 18, 2021 at 06:54 PM.
Today we installed the Powerflex motor mount bushings - results of that in a second. We also changed the oil, replaced the belt (PITA, but overall pretty easy), and I changed the RSB to the closest (1st?) hole - closest to the bar, not the end of the RSB.
While under the car we did a full inspection. Turns out the AC/Alternator belt was severely cracked. Pully tensioner was still very strong so we only replaced the belt.
Todd also saw that I have a very small weep at the the CV/wheel bearing area. Plan is to monitor and replace - probably at the next oil change. Also, I need to pickup a new drain plug and crush washer before the next oil change too.
So motor mounts are pretty easy to install too. Here is a pic of the new motor mounts on the car..
I replaced both the small and big ends. Small was easy with the right tools. Big is easy-peasy.
Here is what I notice. First, no more missed shifts. Second, a slight increase of vibration at idle. Third, virtually no engine movement. All in all, a very nice upgrade.
I really wasn’t able to test out much of the additive RSB performance due to wet roads. On the middle hole, there was too much body lean on 45MPH+ sweeper turns up the canyon. I did the drive and the body roll is significantly less, so I think I’m good. I’ll know when I can take those turns at speed with dry pavement.
So, all that said/written, today was a very good day!
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Aug 4, 2021 at 10:08 PM.
Motor mounts are FINALLY breaking in. There’s a whole lot less shaking going on!
195/60 Yokohama tires are holding up great. Good traction, more speed in corners too.
Haven’t decided whether I’ll do Enkel RPF1s or Rota RBs yet. Still leaning towards 16” rims because of our crappy roads. Thinking Continental DWS Plus’ in 205x55R16’s as the tire. A bit shorter sidewall than I have now, but a bit taller too - 60MPH in second gear is the goal. Right now I hit the rev limiter at 58ish MPH. Besides, the MC base has a really short first gear, so all in all, I thing it’ll be a good tire choice.
Added a MCS wing to the car yesterday. I think I like it!
Another shot of shot of the wing. But the real item is the missing rear wiper. Wiper delete added!
At the same time, i added a flashing rear brake light. It’s already saved the back of my car from inattentive drivers. Set it to 6 blinks all the time.
Did another oil change and transmission oil change. Installed magnetic drain plugs from WMW.
Other install was a Sprint Booster. Totally awesome device. Race 9 and pushing the sport button is a total riot. 🤪
Still working on my backup light project. Should be complete over the next few weeks. 👍
Next up are coil packs & plugs at the next oil change.
Bought the Koni version of the bump stops from Fat Cat Motorsports. They’ll go on with the new dampers in late December.
I still have a weeping driver’s front wheel bearing, so that goes in too. Still need to order it. But the wheel bearing will be January, along with a new clutch. Clutch isn’t bad yet, and it’s not slipping, but with 116k on the clock, it’s a bit sloppy.
Well, more to come!
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Nov 28, 2021 at 07:47 PM.
My Mini isn't a quarter miler (or 0-60 vehicle for that matter), so time's aren't my interest. It's the power in the midrange and driving to maintain speed that I'm interested in. Car pulls nicely in everything but 6th - and still accelerates there too.
Paul screams like a banshee when I want and is quiet as a mouse when I want. Heaven!
Sorry they aren't better quality clips. My video file conversion-fu isn't that good today!
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Dec 6, 2021 at 10:51 AM.
Sounds awesome man... I have pretty much the same spec car that you do... I only have the ddmworks intake on mine and it is plenty of sound for me. If I ever went with exhaust id have to do the same thing as you because the ddmworks would just be too loud. Ive been interested in doing more mods to mine like sway bars, coilovers, rpf1s and vivid racing makes a tune that on paper sounds promising but idk if it would be a big difference with the NA cooper. Keep posting im interested in seeing where your build goes.
Thanks for the encouraging words - much appreciated!
For me (IMHO only) the DDM intake was awesome in performance, but way too loud in practice. It really isn't there in the videos, but the low speed burbles are way too much fun with the current setup. At parking lot or neighborhood speeds, the exhaust is perfect. Unsure where you are located, but I'd look for a muffler shop that specializes in building exhausts if the budget allows and skip the high price of aftermarket exhausts.
As for the build, I'm unsure where it will actually go from here - other than replacing worn out parts and tastefully upgrading where possible. The car is just about perfect. I'll be chasing down a few of the rattles next summer - I think it's mainly just replacing rubber door seals and getting "stuff" (technical term) out of my car - the glovebox and hidden glovebox too.
As I mentioned in earlier posts, I'm not against lowering the car (good coil over package) but the roads in my area aren't the best. So, for now at least, it'll be Koni FSD's and new bump stops from FCM. Hopefully the road expansion joints will quit rattling my teeth after the install.
What has me hesitating with shock/struts v. coil overs is the minimum lowering height of the coil over system. If I could get near stock ride height and a sticky suspension, I'd be all over it with the price at or below $3k.
Right now, the tires grip (at my speeds anyway), but I think it'd look better with a bit wider and taller tire. I'm thinking 205/55r16's with RPF1 wheels. It'll save me a pound + at each corner with a little lower sidewall, but an overall taller tire. That said, with my current setup (195/60r15 tires ) and in first gear, I can just get across a two lane intersection before shifting into 2nd. I'd like to have it taller so I can downshift into 1st gear on some canyon hairpins that are a bit too slow for 2nd and a bit too fast for 1st - speed is in the mid to upper 20's/low 30's and right now, it feels just a bit off - like the car doesn't want me to pitch it faster in first. Also, I'm not really interested in peeling rubber everywhere - not that I do, but I know that I can (and have!) so a taller first gear with taller tires is in order next.
Look, the car isn't a speed demon and I'm older/wiser now and don't really want that. I just want to be able to go up (my) canyon roads at good clip of speed and never have to touch the brakes. This truly has become my momentum car and a keeper for the long haul.
The other thing about the current (uggg) suspension is that at speed, mid corner bumps are pretty unsettling - and yes, I do believe that the current shocks are pretty much toast - low speed compliance is good, but sharp bumps at speed are harsh. What I don't know is whether FSD's or "good" Coil Overs will punch the ticket for a great suspension. I really don't want to go stock shocks/struts, but I don't really. have anything to compare a stock setup v. a FSD/Coil Over setup. Right now, I have good to great traction at low to mid speed on great roads, but only moderate traction to fair to poor roads (again, mid-cornering bumps or sweeper bumps at speed).
So, I keep saving my shekels until I have more to go on.
So:
Larger RSB = Check
Intake = Check
Exhaust = Check
Sirius XM = Check
Motor Mounts = Check
Rear Wiper Delete = Check
Tint = Check
Sprint Booster = Check
Maintenance = Mostly checked
Wheels/Tires = Not checked
Suspension = Not checked
Eliminating the few rattles left = Not checked
New windshield = Not checked and it won't be until after the gravel gets off the roads next spring
Clutch Replacement = Not checked
Wheel Bearings Replaced = Not checked
Plan is not to upgrade interior anything - no booming stereo, not better seats, no harnesses and likely not removing the back seat either (though I've thought seriously about it).
I still have to say that Paul is the most fun driving car that I've ever owned. It hasn't ever scared the ***** out of me either - and I've pushed it pretty hard already.
On a "getting older" note. As a youngster (18-~35), I constantly saw the gray haired gents driving their Corvettes or Porsche's in the slow lane up the Colorado highways. One time I met one at a rest stop and asked a steely haired gent why they didn't get on the gas more. He replied that "driving in the slow lane has "everyone" looking at their car as they drive by - it isn't necessarily about going that fast, but knowing that with the right foot down, you can". I'm starting to get there with my Mini. Although 80+ on the interstate has Paul purring like a kitty-cat belly rub.
Cheers,
John
Last edited by JH-Evergreen; Feb 18, 2022 at 11:28 AM.
It's been a minute since I checked in. BTW, Mini Cooper is running great.
Still haven't replaced wheels yet, but maybe next year. Maintenance is complete and up to date - everything that needed to be done has been. New windshield is installed (Canadian Glass, not Chinese - Canadian glass is a bit better and I had a choice. New Koni FSDs were installed - decided not to go with coilovers as it's a street car and I do drive in the winter. When I put in the FSDs, I went with FatCat Motorsports bump stops too.
Front right wheel bearing is fine and not weeping any longer - or at least it hasn't wept any more - mechanic says it's fine - so I'm waiting. When he did the FSDs, I had him check the clutch and he says lots of life left - so no change there either.
Since last summer I bought a pickup truck (2002 Ford Ranger 4X4) as a shooting range truck and a mountain bike carrier, I left the hitch on, but it's wearing the standard backup light - it's there if I need it, but I likely won't ever haul the bikes with the Mini again.
Just a couple of notes for those interested. The new motor mounts have finally stopped rattling at idle and it is still stiff running through the gears. The Koni FSDs (through Outmotoring.com) are superb. No more mid-corner hops, just sticky traction on the road. Corners are much more fun and the shocks toned down the rattles.
Oh and I finally wired in the Sirius Onyx in correctly, so no more dangling wires.
If anyone has a tip to keep the chrome rod thingie on the lower grill, please share it. I've finally just removed it, though I think it looks better with it on. I might try it again now that I have new shocks, but it coming off and holding on by the lightest of threads against my license plate, is a real drag.
I'll post new pics once I get the new wheels/tires on Paul. For now, I'm just driving and having a hoot.
I debated long an hard around new wheels and tires. Should I go 16's and have a bit more comfort or go 17's and a bit more performance. Well, I went with 17's Rota RB in Hyper Silver (Thanks Dan!) and 215/45/17 Continental DWS 06+'s.
Wheels arrived well packed and in perfect condition. Discount Tire struggled a bit with the center caps, but eventually all was good. Also, my original wheel lock lug bolts were too short, so I bought new bolts from Discount Tire at the time of the install.
I'm still not lowered as the roads around here still $uck with potholes, cracks and divots out of the asphalt.
Here's what I notice - 17's definitely have more grip. Ride is bumpier over cracks. Tire/wheel combo grips like the dickens in the twisties. 24.6" diameter 215'a raise first gear a bit so I need to use a little more clutch than before. Acceleration is a little slower, but not overly so. Everything fits with no rubs or scuffs. Corners that I couldn't take at speed with the 195's I can take now. Keeping speed is a bit easier too. Climbs in the Colorado foothills I can still do in 6th gear and I rarely ever down shift at speed. I'm sure the higher mountains, I'd be shifting more.
If you folks remember I installed FSD's a couple/few years ago. I'm now at ~137k miles, so only ~25k more than when I bought the Mini used.
So, if I had to do it again, would I go with 17's or 16'a? Really it is a toss up, but if the car was lowered ~1", I'd go 16's. If it was an S, it'd be 17's. My car? I'm totally happy with the 17's and the way they perform. I usually drive alone anyway and I don't mind the increased bit of bumps from a smaller sidewall. 235/40's are a bit shorter in overall diameter and I don't lose much sidewall, so I may do those next - but it will be several years before it will be time to replace the 215's. For now, Paul is still a keeper and I'm still a happy camper...
The Golf was pushing close to 450 HP and to go to 120 HP (on a good day at sea level, not necessarily at 7500 feet where I live) was an adjustment. Truly, the Justa does great even at altitude - cruises well above the posted speed limit, gets off the line quickly, not boost to build, etc. At 156k (ish) miles on Paul, the clutch is starting to go. Todd (my mechanic) is looking at it now. Hopefully he'll be done next week.
Personally, for me on Paul at least, the mods I've done have performed spectacularly - rear sway bar, Sprintbooster, bigger tires, Intake and Exhaust (and adding SiriusXM via the Onyx of course) were the biggest bang for the buck.
Drives great, cruises even better and it's comfy. New wheels/tires on Paul are next. Now 16's or 17's...
No complaints on the power [or lack of] in my R57, I came from a 300hp Explorer & prefer the nimble handling of the Mini for sure [but sometimes miss the space, but we have an Expedition for that]
Do wish mine was a 6MT though.
@JAMADOR , I also have an old truck that I drive a bunch- 2002 Ford Ranger for hauling/going to the rifle range and Alex has a Toyota 4Runner for more people.
I don't think I've uploaded new photos after the lowering springs were installed, so I need to do that - but first Paul needs a bath. Our sons did the trip to Branson,, MO in June in Paul for the family reunion, while Alex and I took Otto to Arkansas to see my brother and sister in law and then to Branson. Lucas said Paul ran great and was so much better than his Wrangler on gas, so he's thinking of maybe a Mini to add to his garage. Paul averaged 34 MPG when running ~80 MPH ish for the drive on I-70. Better when the speeds dropped. As he followed us on the drive back from Branson to Denver, he kept up with Otto without issue. And Paul looked really nice out of Otto's rear view mirror.
I'm thinking Paul needs new shoes too - a set of Enkei RPF1s in 17's will be added next month. They're LIGHT and will look great, AND I can use the the Continental DSW's that are on the Mini Light rims now. I'll buy them without the speed sensors and swap everything over at Discount Tire. Then I'll list the old rims on Craigslist for free if someone wants them. I think I'll still keep the original rims for winter Blizzaks though - or I'll just keep driving the truck in bad weather.
Overall, Paul has been a terrific car. Though Alex and I did contemplate selling Paul for a month or two. Frankly, do we really need 2x Mini Coopers? Well, we both decided that we'll keep both for now. It seems that whenever we have friends/family in town, they end up either driving Paul or Alex's 4Runner and she drives Paul. Having an extra car around has been nice while I've been building Otto too. Especially when our daughter comes into town for an ultra marathon and steals my truck for two weeks while acclimating to the altitude. So, back to two Mini's in the garage. Just know that I'm not complaining at all - I'm really happier than a pig in poop. I really love both cars for different reasons and even after driving Otto with the now 220 ish horsepower, Paul is still a total joy to drive.
