Update on mine:

Just upgraded to bi-xenon headlights and put in new shift box, springs/struts, pads/rotors, braided steel brake lines, clutch master/slave, brake reservoir, front/rear sway bar bushings, and finally replaced the opaque foglights.

Now sitting at 279,000 miles and it drives like the day I bought it.

 

Lower radiator hose was torn. Drained the coolant, and blew a head gasket

 

That's not irreparable. I burned an intake valve and dropped the valve seat at around 200k. Had a local machine shop deck the head and put in a new valve seat. Went ahead and just put all new studs and replaced fasteners and gaskets on anything I could see while I was in there. Did the piston rings too. New exhaust studs and heat shield, along with repining any brittle connectors or wire loom covers. And a new valve cover. All in, maybe $1800 if memory serves. Still runs sweet as can be nearly 80k miles later.

 

Timing chain job is not bad at all; be sure to buy the cam lock tool kit.
The Valve Seal job, done in-car, is an absolute BE-otch and I would NOT recommend. I Would recommend removing the head to do the seals (might as well do a valve job) and while you're there, don't miss the opportunity to renew the filter mount gasket, replace the brittle (and critical) PCV hose and water pipe and thermostat housing and clean both VANOs screens.

See these threads:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...c-job-diy.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-surprise.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ance-must.html