Hellooo everyone,

Over the last few months since i got my R50 (03 non S indy blue cooper), ive noticed a bumpier than desired ride. ive also begun to notice some mushrooming on the passenger side and a cracked strut tower rubber bushing.
Ive spoken to my mini mechanic and hes going to be installing the items i decide to go with. Since my mini will be all disected and it would save me on labor costs, He also suggested i go with some control arm bushings (poly urethane) aswell. i would also like to know some pros and cons on the polyurethane bushings. His solution to the mushrooming was to go with the craven speed plates too.

Personally, i was thinking about going with an M7 strut tower brace (has the anti-mushroom plates) or the craven speed and some camber plates. ive heard of camber plates that rid the need of the rubber strut tower bushings which is a definate plus! Now the handling of the car would be supreme if i did this but according to my mechanic, camber plates contribute to a bumpier ride. Now what i wanted in my ride is a smoother cadillac (almost) ride so i figured id get some different shocks for that. if i get different shocks would i be able to keep the OEM springs ? or would i have to purchase some springs aswell?

i would definately appreciate some feedback from you guys. I know some of you are very wise when it comes to mini modding. thanks million for taking time out and reading! hope to hear from some of you soon!

 

Keep the OEM springs and install some Koni FSD shocks. If you are looking for smooth ride with increased control and stability, you can't do much better than those shocks.

 

I don't see how camber plates affect ride.... turning yes, but ride no

 

+1 on the Koni FSD's. I have them on both my R50 and R53, and the difference in ride quality is unbelievable.

 

I kept the stock struts and went with the TSW Springs this lowered the car just a little. Also got a AAA membership and dropped the run flat tires these two changes made the ride extremely smooth..

 

Thanks a million guys. excellent suggestions! ill opt out for koni fsd shocks!

Master Chief, id like to drop my mini but idk if itll be a safe bet in the long run. looked at the springs on some minis and i did like what i saw. How long have you been running on the TSW springs !?
Very Respectfully,
ET2 Campos

 

I haven't tried them on my MINI, but polyurethane bushings have hardened up the ride on other cars I've installed them on. If you are going for a smoother ride, I'd go with OEM bushings instead.

Dave

 

Great suggestion dave. ive heard stories of how polyurethane bushings get squeeky after times use. Ive also heard about a grease that can be applied periodically to reduce the noise and prevent them from hardening. anyone have any experiances with that ?

 

I went with the TSW springs back in March and chose them over others for the fact that they are not progressive and the spring rate is always the same. Other springs will "slam" the Mini while I wanted a ride that looked and handled better. Combined with the M7 Strut tower bar and non run flat tires and I have achieved what I was after. When are you going to make first?

 

Master Chief, Glad to hear about your mini. how much lower did your mini drop ? what size wheels do you have ? As for making first, I just made 2nd the last test earlier this year. I could use a SW pin to stand out as a 2nd :/ are you still active, Master Chief ?
Very Respectfully,
ET2

 

The TSW springs dropped about an inch in the front and 3/4 inch in the back. As for tires I went with the General UHP 215-45-17 I wanted a tire that would last and be able to handle rain along with being fun while not costing a fortune. Look in my garage/gallery and you will see the difference between before and after shots on the suspension. Yes I'm still active serving my last tour with VFA-94 as their Maintenance Master Chief a UDP squadron stationed in Lemoore CA. Set your priorities up for making first the first time by getting your pin doing your job and taking on and successfully completing collateral duties. If you don't have a degree plan get one established that will set you up to have your degree in the next 6 years thus whey your up for Chief it will be on your package.

 

Master Chief,
Viewed your garage and boy does that mini have some tricks under its sleeves!!! WOW. I can only imagine how nice that thing handles and rides. As far as advancement exams go, ive been hitting it off on my first tries on the exams so far. Ive been learning about collateral duties in the fleet and finally have my own @ the reserve center. I still have my esws book from my last ship so ill study that in my free time (when im not studying for school!), then ill ask for an AT on a ship. My degree plan is in the linguistics field. Im getting to get my associates in arts then transferring to a university where i can pursue my studies in arabic (I can read/write and have a developing proficiency), farsi, urdu and pashto. once i can get certified in translating and interpreting in those languages i want to pursue a lifetime dream of serving in the seal teams :0] I really do love my navy.

Ive always heard of how some people make chief fast but ive never really remembered what the solid steps to get there. The advice you've given me has made it crystal clear, Master Chief. Thanks a bunch! your very resourceful.

 

Sounds like a solid plan to not only take care of your career but also your car. If you need assistance don't hesitate to ask. NAM has lots of help in more ways then one.

 

Okay i was out for a run and i was getting into my car after i was done then... it happened. i proceeded forward and i hit this giant pothole that hurt me to my very core. i moved to a clearer spot with more light (it was dark) and i checked the tire and under the car to look for leaking (everything looked good). i poped the hood and i noticed i cracked the drivers side strut tower rubber bushing. earlier last year i had a similar run in and the passenger bushing is ripped aswell. the passenger strut tower is showing mushrooming but the drivers side is flat.

What i wanted to ask some of you saavy motorers was whether i should go fixed (correct mushrooming issue) or adjustable camber plates.

if i go fixed i have the worry of cracking and replacing the rubber bushings in the future and thats not cheap :/

with the adjustable it eliminates the need for rubber bushings but im worried about calibrating the camber on the auto every so often and if it has a tendency to lose alignment.

you guys input would be greatly appreciated!

 

install the IE fixed camber plates and M7 strut tower braces it solves the mushrooming while making the car handle so much better.i have a lot of work on my suspension done 3 yrs ago poly bushes are no problem and last longer than OEM bushes,FSD's are great shocks.

 

+1 on the IE plates. Put them into my 07S and the handling went from great to GRRRRREATTT . However, the bushing in the plate is stiffer and there is a bit more noise and a bit of harshness. But after a month that went away (you get used to it ). Maybe that will be helped with the FSDs - those are on my list too

 

So the IE plates do not rid the needs of the strut tower bushings and they cause noise.

im going with some camber plates but im still undecisive at this point. i just want to know if there are any alignment problems with the adjustable (inclined to the possibility of purchasing these since some rid the need for the strut tower rubber bushings)

does anyone have any experiance with adjustable camber plates ?

 

Sorry, I am not sure I understand your first comment about "do not rid the needs of the strut tower bushings ". All camber plate have a bearing in them. This is what allows the strut to rotate when you turn the steering wheel. The stock one come with a bearing mounted in a rubber bushing that cuts out most of the noise and vibration. The IM ones use a Z3 assembly for this which has a stiffer bushing and stronger bearing (this is what I have read on NAM). Other camber plates (adjustables) still have the bearing but no bushing (someone please correct me if I am wrong here, again this is what I have read) and I would suspect even more noise and vibration. I use my car as a daily driver. I noticed the change but it is not what I would call loud or objectionable at all; just something that I noticed. I would still highly recommend them for a DD and track days. If you are racing or agressive tracking then maybe the adjustables are for you. But there maybe real noise issues. I would research that more before sending $.

 

My camber plates made the car slightly rougher on rough roads, but the benefit is well worth it! I have the IE Racing Plate and I love them. The plates did lower the front end a bit, but I am not sure as to how much it lowered the front end, maybe a half inch?

The control arm bushings are a must imho. I haven't done mine yet, but coming this spring, Otis will receive a set for sure. I am also replacing the steering bushing and the front sway bar bushings with Powerflex at that time.

I have the M7 plates up top still to prevent mushrooming, but the camber plate install should eliminate the need for them! I kept mine because I liked the look under the hood. Plus, a little extra insurance never hurts right?

Here is the rundown of my suspension, which I think has made my Mini into the Driving joy that it is:

Texas Speedwerks Springs
OEM Sachs Shocks
M7 Strut Tower Defenders
IE Racing Camber Plates
Alta 19mm Rear Swaybar
Alta Adjustable rear swaybar Endlinks
OEM Cabrio Braces
OMP Lower Front Stress Brace
H&R 5mm Spacers at all 4 corners

I will be installing those bushings on top of this setup. Overall, I am pleased with the outcome and couldn't have asked for better results! When you put this with non-runflat tires, the results are great.

 

The IE fixed camber plate is a BMW bushing from a Z3 a much heavier car,adj camber plates are a tad noisy.I have adj and whish i had installed the fixed plate.Other than that 2yrs and i'm happy camper.
All Powerflex bushes except for the one behind the tachometer oem replacement
H-sport 19mm rear bar
H-sport lower control arms
IE adjustable plates
M-7 STB'S
Koni FSD
No regrets

 

Wow guys. nail right on the head there and now i furthermore understand the role the strut tower bushing plays in the assembly. im feeling good about going for the fixed Irish Engineering camber plates at this point and replacing my strut tower bushings. excellent suggestions. thanks a gazillion!
heres another thought,

should i wait to buy the FSD shocks for my mini aswell to save on labor costs ? any thoughts on that ? im not the richest man in the world but ill say im more so the frugal type.lol (but id rather eat rice for a month to buy those nice things for my mini)

 

If you are going to do the camber plates (IE fixed or otherwise - the fixed are a wise choice ), you have to pull the shocks and springs out anyway. So, it would be best to do them both at the same time. Otherwise you are taking the suspension apart twice -2x $$$

 

If you plan on lowering the car, I would look into the adjustable camber plates. The front end alignment is pretty important and the adjustability that comes along with the camber plates I roll has definitely helped!

 

An yes, you should replace it all at once, then the suspension doesn't have to be dismantled twice!

 

Just some more 2c - Your choice of springs will determine how much camber you can set. With stock springs or stock-style lowering springs you can set only about -2 deg camber. Beyond that the springs hit the tower. With coilovers you can go up to about -3 deg or a little more before they hit. The coilovers have a smaller diameter spring. However, they will be stiffer; ride and noise will suffer. Also, somewhere between -2 and -2.5 deg and above tire wear will start to suffer significantly. If you are a serious racer you will want between -2.5 to -3 deg. For the street, casual autoX, HPDEs about -2 is really nice. I have the IE fixed camber plate and with the Gen 2 slot-shift I have about -1.6 deg camber and love it for the street. It is good at my level for HPDE , but more is needed for autoX .