Good Buy or not?
Good Buy or not?
Saw this car few weeks ago, absolutely loved it, but don't know much about minis.
so here we go: http://www.minimania.com/web/id/9929/Cars4Sale_Detail.cfm
Photos: http://s241.photobucket.com/albums/f...20CARLO%20177/
Any input is welcome
Thanks
so here we go: http://www.minimania.com/web/id/9929/Cars4Sale_Detail.cfm
Photos: http://s241.photobucket.com/albums/f...20CARLO%20177/
Any input is welcome
Thanks
It is not as good as it sounds tho
First it is not a cooper s what so every
it has a 1994 japanese shell, mk1 style rear and front, but no the door.
The engine is a 1.3 spi which looks very clean
The interior has been converted to mk1 style dash but the steering column and heater control is mk4 or later
still a great looking car, plus it's red
First it is not a cooper s what so every
it has a 1994 japanese shell, mk1 style rear and front, but no the door.
The engine is a 1.3 spi which looks very clean
The interior has been converted to mk1 style dash but the steering column and heater control is mk4 or later
still a great looking car, plus it's red
Last edited by qzomak; Sep 30, 2011 at 01:23 PM.
A used car is worth what YOU are willing to pay, or a buyer is willing to pay (if you are the seller) and not a cent more.
To me this appears to be a Japanese re-vin with a nice paint job and some Cobra seats, Newton Carpets and a replacement steering wheel . . . 1994 shell with an SPi equals a re-vin . . .
You say you are not wise to the ways of Mini so I'll mention that the injected Minis can have a support issue in the US. These early computer controlled injection systems use propietary computer control systems that can not be read/diagnosed by today's standardized systems. Since the cars were never {legally} imported to the US, finding a mechanic with the correct diagnostic system can be difficult. So long as nothing goes wrong you are fine . . .
Nice looking yes, but a new coat of paint/undercoating on the bottom can hide all sorts of things . . . ask me how I know! He says he won't sell w/out an inspection . . . he's trying to be honest anyway.
I have many of these same mods on my 79 shell: MK1 front clip (mine is glass however), MK1 tail light inserts/lens', MK1 boot lid and plate holder, fake right side gas tank filler. The exhaust is new but plain jane and the motor is stock so far as it appears in the pictures.
For a rally car replica I'd be looking for interior mods that included rally gear to some degree. This replica is paint and stickers.
If $15,000 feels good for you . . and you have that kind of play money to toy with . . . go for it.... (if this would be your first 'classic' purchase I'd not recommend it unless you have a garage to keep/work on the car, another car to use as the daily driver, a good set of tools or a good mechanic familiar with UK cars and deep pockets to pay him....)
I feel safer with a pre-injection car. A 1275 with a carb or even two is a pretty simple engine to work on.
Mine even has a roll cage . . . you can have it for $12,000 cash . . .
To me this appears to be a Japanese re-vin with a nice paint job and some Cobra seats, Newton Carpets and a replacement steering wheel . . . 1994 shell with an SPi equals a re-vin . . .
You say you are not wise to the ways of Mini so I'll mention that the injected Minis can have a support issue in the US. These early computer controlled injection systems use propietary computer control systems that can not be read/diagnosed by today's standardized systems. Since the cars were never {legally} imported to the US, finding a mechanic with the correct diagnostic system can be difficult. So long as nothing goes wrong you are fine . . .
Nice looking yes, but a new coat of paint/undercoating on the bottom can hide all sorts of things . . . ask me how I know! He says he won't sell w/out an inspection . . . he's trying to be honest anyway.
I have many of these same mods on my 79 shell: MK1 front clip (mine is glass however), MK1 tail light inserts/lens', MK1 boot lid and plate holder, fake right side gas tank filler. The exhaust is new but plain jane and the motor is stock so far as it appears in the pictures.
For a rally car replica I'd be looking for interior mods that included rally gear to some degree. This replica is paint and stickers.
If $15,000 feels good for you . . and you have that kind of play money to toy with . . . go for it.... (if this would be your first 'classic' purchase I'd not recommend it unless you have a garage to keep/work on the car, another car to use as the daily driver, a good set of tools or a good mechanic familiar with UK cars and deep pockets to pay him....)
I feel safer with a pre-injection car. A 1275 with a carb or even two is a pretty simple engine to work on.
Mine even has a roll cage . . . you can have it for $12,000 cash . . .
Last edited by Capt_bj; Sep 30, 2011 at 02:01 PM.
I agree, for that price you can find a much better Mini. I hate hate hate when someone tries to sell something as something it is not. Seems to just be more showy than anything else. Did anyone else notice the dual gas filler caps but only one tank???
For 15K you could end up finding a cheap Mini and using the rest of the money to build it up how you want it to be. OR just finding a better one for a better price. Patience and persistence.
For 15K you could end up finding a cheap Mini and using the rest of the money to build it up how you want it to be. OR just finding a better one for a better price. Patience and persistence.
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It is an inexpensive 'Copperization' alto I NEVER try to claim my car is a Cooper(s). I have MORE fun explaining why it could NOT BE a Cooper .... it IS a 1979 shell.
No worse than buying the 90's vintage Cooper stickers and putting them on anything I suppose . . .
This seller is not exactly honest about the car he's selling and that appears to be VERY common.
The Nov 2011 issue of Classic Motorsports has the 'Techtips' col' directed specifically to Mini and one of the topics is "what is it?"
They have a very 'correct' way to say "watch out for a re-vin" without saying anyone does re-vin!
btw the article header is actually TECHTIPS: Mini Cooper
Last edited by Capt_bj; Oct 1, 2011 at 02:14 PM.
Hey guys, Thanks for the input. I have been searching for a mini for a while now. Saw my shears of minis and i ready like the look and feel of this one.
I am aware of the issue with the re-vin and all the look a like modifications. My plan for this mini is to make it in to a my own version and tribute to the world of mini rallying. Not to be a replica but bears the looks of the old rally days.
I have talk the seller down to 11k all inclusive (tax, appraisal, etc.) Do you guys think i should go for it? Is the re-vin thing a deal breaker?
Thanks
I am aware of the issue with the re-vin and all the look a like modifications. My plan for this mini is to make it in to a my own version and tribute to the world of mini rallying. Not to be a replica but bears the looks of the old rally days.
I have talk the seller down to 11k all inclusive (tax, appraisal, etc.) Do you guys think i should go for it? Is the re-vin thing a deal breaker?
Thanks
For me, the revin wouldn't necessarily be a deal-breaker. However, the fuel injection and lack of proper mechanics to do the job very well could be. If this thing winds up having engine issues, you now have yourself a 11k paperweight. That, and I really don't like the way the seller clearly states "NO VISIBLE RUST". To me that oftentimes translates as "I gave it a new paintjob to cover up any visible rust". Not saying this seller did that, but none of the 80 detailed photos really show you anything but a new paintjob. Now if we had 80 photos detailing the restoration process, starting with said 99% rust-free body shell stripped down to bare metal (rather than rolling shell, which could mean they just took off the chrome bits to spray it), then I'd feel more confident. The photos do look good, and if you do decide to move forward, definitely get it inspected by someone who knows their way around Minis.
Last edited by 2phun; Oct 1, 2011 at 11:20 PM.
I'd hit it for 14K. It would take 25K to build something like that. I agree with 2Phun though, that phrasing scares me a bit.
Edit, whoops, it's in Canada. Be prepared for border crossing fun unless you're in Canada too. I just went through 2 weeks of harrowing customs fun getting an engine into the USA.
Edit, whoops, it's in Canada. Be prepared for border crossing fun unless you're in Canada too. I just went through 2 weeks of harrowing customs fun getting an engine into the USA.
I'd hit it for 14K. It would take 25K to build something like that. I agree with 2Phun though, that phrasing scares me a bit.
Edit, whoops, it's in Canada. Be prepared for border crossing fun unless you're in Canada too. I just went through 2 weeks of harrowing customs fun getting an engine into the USA.
Edit, whoops, it's in Canada. Be prepared for border crossing fun unless you're in Canada too. I just went through 2 weeks of harrowing customs fun getting an engine into the USA.
It would take $25k to build one properly... jury is still out on this one. Seems a bit pricey to me at first glance.
Oooh, didn't notice that it was a Canada sale. Makes the question of a revin a bit more important. If it was already registered in the States, it likely wouldn't be a bit deal. BUT, now you're talking about importing a car with questionable registration. The seller can say all day long that it's not an issue, but he isn't the one taking the risk. Legally the car must be 25 years or older to import into the States. While the VIN says it is older, this car clearly isn't. IF the Customs agent is in the know and decides to make a stink about it, you'll be the one out $11k and have nothing to show for it.
That said, people apparently do bring revinned cars over all the time without issue, but I personally am not one to gamble $11k. Just my opinion. You'll have to weigh your options.
That said, people apparently do bring revinned cars over all the time without issue, but I personally am not one to gamble $11k. Just my opinion. You'll have to weigh your options.
Have you asked the seller if he has any pictures of the restoration? Can he share images of what the vehicle looked like before the paint job. I once bought a 1974 BMW 2002 that looked like it was in fantastic shape. Until I poked a screwdriver through the wheel well. The seller had applied wet newspaper to the wheel well, let it dry, sprayed it with rattle can undercoating then drove it through some mud and dirt. Looked fantastic up until that screwdriver went through. I am not saying that this car has anything like that going on, just to be very careful.
You have probably reached the emotional attachment phase of the buying process, where you have anticipated actually owning this car. Sometimes that perspective affects your judgement. If you can then it is valuable to have someone not emotionally attached to the car either view it with you or view it for you.
I have a 1971 Triumph TR6 and the national club that I belong to, 6-pack.org, has a surrogate buyers network. Someone will go and take a look at the car if you are too far away to give you an honest assessment of the condition. Maybe you can search the web for some time type of similar club online. Or ask if anyone on NAM is close to the location of the car and maybe you can cover some costs associated with them viewing the car for you. If not I would be prepared to take a very close look at the car before I agreed to buy it, even if it means backing out and the cost associated with doing so.
The one thing that I looked at that I do not like about the car is this. In one of the pictures of the empty wheel well you can see the nice looking spray job of the black paint for the undercarriage. But there is also over spray onto the brake caliper. That demonstrates a very quick respray with little attention to detail. It would have taken all of 2 minutes to cover those bits up to avoid overspray. It seems that the car has had a lot of lipstick and mascara designed to make it look good without taking the time to "do it right".
Add to that the fact that the seller has dropped $4K in price for this car leads me to believe that something is not as it seems. I just do not get a warm tummy feeling about the car. I would encourage you to proceed with caution.
You have probably reached the emotional attachment phase of the buying process, where you have anticipated actually owning this car. Sometimes that perspective affects your judgement. If you can then it is valuable to have someone not emotionally attached to the car either view it with you or view it for you.
I have a 1971 Triumph TR6 and the national club that I belong to, 6-pack.org, has a surrogate buyers network. Someone will go and take a look at the car if you are too far away to give you an honest assessment of the condition. Maybe you can search the web for some time type of similar club online. Or ask if anyone on NAM is close to the location of the car and maybe you can cover some costs associated with them viewing the car for you. If not I would be prepared to take a very close look at the car before I agreed to buy it, even if it means backing out and the cost associated with doing so.
The one thing that I looked at that I do not like about the car is this. In one of the pictures of the empty wheel well you can see the nice looking spray job of the black paint for the undercarriage. But there is also over spray onto the brake caliper. That demonstrates a very quick respray with little attention to detail. It would have taken all of 2 minutes to cover those bits up to avoid overspray. It seems that the car has had a lot of lipstick and mascara designed to make it look good without taking the time to "do it right".
Add to that the fact that the seller has dropped $4K in price for this car leads me to believe that something is not as it seems. I just do not get a warm tummy feeling about the car. I would encourage you to proceed with caution.
One other thing. On Mini Mania he has sold at least 4 other cars according to information on that web site. That means there are 4 other trailblazers out there. He should be willing to give you contact information from one or more of those buyers. He has a track record so you should be able to check up on him and see what others have had for a buying experience.
I personally wouldn't tangle with the re-vin at a border crossing and expect to get the car registered. US customs takes the idea of a re-vin VERY seriously. Search out on minimania forums for "revin" and you'll see some law enforcement that seizes and crushes. I can't imagine the ulcer from losing a car like that.
The other issue, it stands out like nobody's business. Bring a LHD gray mini in, it's a cute passenger car. Bring in a RHD car like that in full regalia, be prepared for a crowd of lookie-loos and customs officers with clipboards!
And re: my 25k comment, around here in the NE, a proper down to the metal surface repaint is 10K if there is no body damage. Add some panels and body work and you're at a 13K, just for paint and body.
The other issue, it stands out like nobody's business. Bring a LHD gray mini in, it's a cute passenger car. Bring in a RHD car like that in full regalia, be prepared for a crowd of lookie-loos and customs officers with clipboards!
And re: my 25k comment, around here in the NE, a proper down to the metal surface repaint is 10K if there is no body damage. Add some panels and body work and you're at a 13K, just for paint and body.
Thanks for reminding me about asking for the restoration. I have got photos from the seller on part of the restoration. here it is:
http://s1096.photobucket.com/albums/g336/qzomak/Classic%20Mini%20restoration/?start=all
As for the SPI engine, i heard these engine are pretty reliable less problem than carb in fact. The seller owns a auto mechanic shop and he offer me one year warranty on anything mechanical.
I asked about the vacuum tube/sensor issue and he assured me that the engine has been strip, clean and put together and all the tubes are new. (not sure if i can take his word for it)
so what do you think guys? Does the restoration pics looks clean?
Thank you so much for your input
There are no restoration pics of the underside of the vehicle. Does he have any? I would ask what repairs were done where the primer is sprayed. And I am still bothered by the lack of detail to covering some of the suspension bits and just spraying over everything that is there. Seems the quick and easy way to do the job. You say that you have done the research on other cars like this on the market so you might know better than some of us what the current value is for a vehicle that has been "cleaned" up rather than having a full restoration done on it. I would also ask the condition of the bushings and other suspension components. Questions, questions, questions.
There are no restoration pics of the underside of the vehicle. Does he have any? I would ask what repairs were done where the primer is sprayed. And I am still bothered by the lack of detail to covering some of the suspension bits and just spraying over everything that is there. Seems the quick and easy way to do the job. You say that you have done the research on other cars like this on the market so you might know better than some of us what the current value is for a vehicle that has been "cleaned" up rather than having a full restoration done on it. I would also ask the condition of the bushings and other suspension components. Questions, questions, questions.
even more confuse now
OK, here goes.
It isnt that I think the car is a bad deal or a bad deal or that they guy is trying to take you or anything like that. I believe that if someone is going to cut corners in one area, he is likely to cut corners in others so you really need to do your homework and check the car out until YOU are certain that it is worth the money you are willing to pay for it.
While I love the classic Mini and would love to own one, I do not and I have not done the research I would if I was truly ready to spend some serious cash on one. Looking around you should be able to get a feel for what various cars are going for. The ones that have had a nut and bolt restoration and are better than new and in pristine condition will be your benchmark. The rust bucket basket cases will be the low mark. Where the pricing falls for the rest of the spectrum you have to find out. But in the end it really is up to you to decide how much a car is worth. But the more research you do the better prepared you will be to figure out what to do.
Is there a British Car Club in the are where the car is being sold? Often the club is on the internet and you can find someone to contact. Trust me, if the person who owns the garage selling the car is a whacko cheat, they will know. And you might find someone who is knowledgeable about the car who is willing to check out the vehicle for you for a lot cheaper then it would cost you to fly or drive to look at it.
Is that a little less confusing?
It isnt that I think the car is a bad deal or a bad deal or that they guy is trying to take you or anything like that. I believe that if someone is going to cut corners in one area, he is likely to cut corners in others so you really need to do your homework and check the car out until YOU are certain that it is worth the money you are willing to pay for it.
While I love the classic Mini and would love to own one, I do not and I have not done the research I would if I was truly ready to spend some serious cash on one. Looking around you should be able to get a feel for what various cars are going for. The ones that have had a nut and bolt restoration and are better than new and in pristine condition will be your benchmark. The rust bucket basket cases will be the low mark. Where the pricing falls for the rest of the spectrum you have to find out. But in the end it really is up to you to decide how much a car is worth. But the more research you do the better prepared you will be to figure out what to do.
Is there a British Car Club in the are where the car is being sold? Often the club is on the internet and you can find someone to contact. Trust me, if the person who owns the garage selling the car is a whacko cheat, they will know. And you might find someone who is knowledgeable about the car who is willing to check out the vehicle for you for a lot cheaper then it would cost you to fly or drive to look at it.
Is that a little less confusing?
Have you seen the car in person yet? I've traveled all day to look at a "restored" car and found that it wasn't finished and the stuff remaining to be done would take eons (seals, leaking sunroofs, new rust bubbling on seams, etc).
If it were me, I would take someone that knows classic brit cars for a drive to go see it. It may all be moot when you lay eyes on it. Most sellers don't really take pictures of flaws, you won't see them until you’ve arrived.
Regarding the SPI, I have one, it's been very reliable for my limited use (3K miles so far). It's not super exciting performance wise, but it seems to be a very reliable motor.
If it were me, I would take someone that knows classic brit cars for a drive to go see it. It may all be moot when you lay eyes on it. Most sellers don't really take pictures of flaws, you won't see them until you’ve arrived.
Regarding the SPI, I have one, it's been very reliable for my limited use (3K miles so far). It's not super exciting performance wise, but it seems to be a very reliable motor.
I've dealt with this seller (and his mechanic) and his cars are mechanically sound. The paint job will look good from a distance, but is not top shelf (but you're not paying top dollar), there will be some bubbles and runs when you look closely. The Japanese cars tend to have few rust problems, it must be the climate. But, there will be rust hiding, these cars all have it. This seller has always advertised his cars as "100% rust free", it seems he is being more realistic now.
The SPI issue is real, but you can drive it until the SPI quits and then convert to a carb, or an upgraded injector control system (available in the UK).
My vote is "go for it!".
11K looks like a reasonable price. You don't have the "import into the US" problem so the fact this is a re-vinned Japanese car is of little importance to you (unless you need to re-sell it south of the border some day).
I've dealt with this seller (and his mechanic) and his cars are mechanically sound. The paint job will look good from a distance, but is not top shelf (but you're not paying top dollar), there will be some bubbles and runs when you look closely. The Japanese cars tend to have few rust problems, it must be the climate. But, there will be rust hiding, these cars all have it. This seller has always advertised his cars as "100% rust free", it seems he is being more realistic now.
The SPI issue is real, but you can drive it until the SPI quits and then convert to a carb, or an upgraded injector control system (available in the UK).
My vote is "go for it!".
I've dealt with this seller (and his mechanic) and his cars are mechanically sound. The paint job will look good from a distance, but is not top shelf (but you're not paying top dollar), there will be some bubbles and runs when you look closely. The Japanese cars tend to have few rust problems, it must be the climate. But, there will be rust hiding, these cars all have it. This seller has always advertised his cars as "100% rust free", it seems he is being more realistic now.
The SPI issue is real, but you can drive it until the SPI quits and then convert to a carb, or an upgraded injector control system (available in the UK).
My vote is "go for it!".
p.s. the note about the SPI convert to carb if failed, i was just thinking about that at the back of my head. How difficult is it to do this conversion and how much will it cost me decent job on it.
Thanks, appreciate all the help




