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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 12:28 PM
  #26  
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Speaking only for myself, I am not encouraging you to purchase the car or not purchase the car. I am suggesting that you carefully check the car out. Most likely the vibe you are getting from people in this thread to not buy the car comes from our caution having purchased a car in the past that was in a condition that was not quite as advertised. I hope whatever car you buy works out great for you. Best of luck with your decision.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 12:36 PM
  #27  
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OK ... now you've got me worried with the "how much will it cost me" phrase. I don't recommend buying one of these little jewels unless you are comfortable with automotive tools, fairly competent under the hood of a car and/or willing to learn.

Climbing off that soapbox ... the SPI to Carb conversion is a fairly straightforward process, but is not inexpensive. You can see prices and process (by clicking on the "Tech Articles" link) on this page ... http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/MM.../InvDetail.cfm

Now the hard part ... at the risk of the bashing I'll get on this website, my Classic (purchased from Erik of Mityminis in Toronto) is a "72 Mini upgraded to 94 standards". If you don't understand that phrase, well ... My experience with Mityminis is very different from yours. At the time of my purchase, Erik was offering "customized" Minis, sort of a build-your-own offer. I wanted LHD, A/C and rust-free (I was a newbie). Erik promised those options, but was ultimately unable to deliver the LHD part (I've gotten accustomed to the RHD and am glad the conversion didn't happen). I had it painted to match my 2010 Clubman so I have a Big Brother - Little Brother look (I can tow the Classic behind the Clubbie). The real difference here is the car you're looking at is finished (or nearly so, are there no rear-view mirrors?), while I was waiting for mine. Erik mentioned 4-6 weeks to delivery and then left me waiting for six MONTHS. And another thing, don't be like me and let A/C sway your decision. The A/C units in these cars are nearly useless. Mine works and puts out cold air, but is over-matched if the weather is very hot, and you can feel the strain it puts on these little engines every time the compressor kicks in.

Getting the car home from Toronto was an adventure for another thread, but there were no Customs issues. I love the car and I drive it to work whenever the skies are clear and the temp is comfortable for opening the windows. It stays in the garage when rain is a possibility. I used it as a daily driver back in April after breaking a bone my right hand, having the stick shift in my left hand became useful.

Bottom line, if you've talked him down to 11K, the car should be a good deal, assuming it runs well and looks as good as it does in the pics.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 02:43 PM
  #28  
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LIL PIGG
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If the price is right, and it sound like it could be. The only way to tell is if you buy it and drive it. If you are looking for a good looking and good running car then this might be it. Don't get confused about the monte carlo stuff. It is only money
 
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 06:49 PM
  #29  
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The photos of the "restoration" don't really show ANY of the common trouble areas. They really only show the cosmetic changes to make it look somewhat like an MK1. I'd ask for photos of these areas during restoration (BEFORE the primer was sprayed on, unlike the boot photos) if possible, and current hi-res ones if restoration photos are unavailable. before even bothering to go see it. Specifically, ask about sills (hopefully not oversills), a-panels, lower doors, underside of the foot panels, rear door bins, underside of the front and rear valances before being primed, the boot and battery box before being primed.

If you are relatively close, I'd definitely take the seller up on the opportunity to go look at the car in person and pick his brain. Have him take you through the entire process, panel by panel, explaining what was in good condition, what was repaired, and what was replaced. Explain that you understand these vehicles do have their quirks and that you don't expect it to be perfect; just that you don't want any surprises. Hopefully that will open him up to be as honest as possible about the vehicle. Bring a weak magnet with you (ask your local real estate agent for one of his fridge magnet calendars) to check the panels for bondo. Make sure to check it out in good lighting so you can more clearly see imperfections in the body and finish. And definitely check out Minifinity's Buyer's Guide!

A couple things I noticed from the photos. The areas around the headlights and windscreen look pretty rust free and repair free, which is a good thing. The interior floor pans look pretty clean, except for some signs of cancer near the passenger door (pic 7)where the door frame meets the wheel well. I'd guess the driver's side looks the same, but it's hard to tell in pic 5. Might just be grime. Definitely an area I'd want to lift up those rubber mats to inspect more carefully. The boot was definitely an area that has had some previous rust issues worked on. Definitely get that magnet into there to make sure it wasn't just filled with bondo. Get on your knees and look at the underside with a flashlight. Check for texture differences. Put that magnet to work. All the undercarriage spray looks nice in the "for sale" photos, but it makes finding the real issues harder to recognize.

If you do your due diligence, you might find that this car is a good bargain (which it very well could be if the work was done correctly), or you might find that it's a polished turd. Either way, you'll come out ahead. The key is to really do your homework.
 

Last edited by 2phun; Oct 3, 2011 at 07:46 PM.
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 07:30 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 2phun
I'd ask for photos of these areas during restoration (BEFORE the primer was sprayed on, unlike the boot photos) if possible, and current hi-res ones if restoration photos are unavailable.
Hi there, what do you mean by hi-res ones/photos?
thanks
 
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 07:36 PM
  #31  
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As was mentioned earlier, the negativity you hear from us is not necessarily about this vehicle in particular, but rather in response to our own past experiences and knowing what might lurk below the surface. Take the time to really research the vehicles you are considering and try not to get emotional about it until after you've signed on the dotted line and taken possession of the keys.

When I purchased my first Mini, I searched and researched for more than six months to find just the right one. When I found it, I was in contact with the seller, discussing his pickup for another two or three months. In our discussions, I explained (as I recommended above) that I knew these cars were prone to issues and I didn't expect his to be perfect. I just didn't want any surprises. He was very understanding, and sent me a CD full of photos of the vehicle, taking me through the entire restoration process. He even went so far as to point out some of the blemishes that I would never have even noticed in the photos. I hired RAC to come inspect the vehicle, and they actually didn't even notice some of the issues that the seller had already pointed out to me. I was confident I had done my part to make sure I had a clean vehicle. Once the Mini arrived, I started to wonder what all the fuss had been about. The process had gone so smoothly, I figured they'd all go that smoothly. Right? Umm...

I had lots of interest in my pickup from people interested in purchasing it. After about a year or so, I decided to sell it (a choice I still regret to this day) for a pretty substantial profit and put the money into another Mini or maybe two. I researched for a few months and found a creampuff. Single elderly woman owner who just passed away, garage kept, 32000 original miles, completely stock and unadulterated, seller didn't know the value of what he had...creampuff. I got in contact with the seller, going through the same process. It was the nephew of the original owner, and he knew nothing about the vehicle's history other than the documented service history. The only photos he could offer were of it sitting in the garage or driveway. So, I hired a private party to inspect the vehicle for me. This contact came from someone who had met this chap at a Mini meet and he seemed like a standup guy. He'd be cheaper than RAC, and he had just recently started a business restoring and exporting Minis. Sure, why not? He could act as my inspector and broker. He went to look at the vehicle and confirmed that it was in great shape.

In our conversations, it came up that I was considering turning Minis for profit. He said he had another Mini "in just as good of condition" as the one I was looking at. He had recently done a restoration of it for a client, but the client was having some financial issues and needed to let it go. He'd be willing to sell it to me for the same price as the one I was already purchasing. He sent me some photos of the "restoration" in progress and the finished product, but nothing super detailed. I showed the photos to some friends, and one of them was totally excited. He wanted it. Woohoo, I already had it sold and hadn't even purchased it yet! I sent the money for both cars the next day. This would be a piece of cake! If I was able to sell the other one this easily, I'd have enough cash to build the track Mini I'd always wanted!

"You're wanting a track Mini? We have a 76 shell that we just restored just sitting here. We could build it for you." Heck yeah! I hopped on Photoshop to get a mockup ready. "Well, we'd need some cash to buy all the parts and pay the mechanics. Do you know specifically what you want in the car?" I made up a shopping list and sent the money for the car and parts.

Amazingly enough, as soon as I had sent the money for all three cars, the guy became harder and harder to contact. Hmm.

Fast forward a bit. Six months passed, and not only did I not have the original two cars yet (he kept having "issues" communicating with his shipping company), I hadn't heard anything about the build of my track car. Ultimately I had to contact the previous shipping company that I had used and sent them to his address to collect the first two cars. The "build" wasn't far enough along to ship yet. Anyway, when the two cars arrived at port, I had very mixed emotions. The first one that I had spent due diligence to make sure it was a good buy was just that. No surprises at all. The second one that I rushed to buy on emotion was a complete disaster. Rusted-out oversills on top of rusted-out sills. Cancer everywhere. I immediately called my friend that wanted to purchase it and told him my assessment, offering to keep it because I felt so bad. Luckily for me, he was using money that he had won to purchase the vehicle, so he figured he was still ahead. Still, I felt really horrible about it.

To this day I've never seen my "build". I was contacted from others who had given this guy their cars to fix, repair, restore, etc. and he ultimately disappeared with the money from more than 30 clients. Many of them were able to ultimately recover their vehicles, found rusting out in the middle of a field somewhere. Unfortunately since I didn't have any paperwork on the vehicle I purchased, I had no way to prove any of those vehicles found in the field were mine. Who knows if it ever even existed in the first place.

Why write all this? Well, it felt good to get it out! That and to show that searching for a good Mini takes a lot more work than just driving up to a used car lot and kicking the tires. Do your research. Take your time. Get detailed photos to narrow down your choices. Once you have a few that you are truly interested in, go inspect them yourself or pay someone knowledgable (and reputable) to inspect them for you. Be willing to walk away, even if you've invested a few bucks to have it inspected. And above all, DON'T GET EMOTIONALLY ATTACHED! They made millions of these little buggers, and the good part is that they are all basically the same and have the same charm and character. You don't have to fall in love with the first one you find.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 07:37 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by qzomak
Hi there, what do you mean by hi-res ones/photos?
thanks
Yes, high resolution photos. The higher, the better chance of seeing the imperfections.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 09:12 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 2phun
Yes, high resolution photos. The higher, the better chance of seeing the imperfections.
Hi there, your post about your experience dealing with mini is very inspiring. Just to get the record straight. I have seem the car of interest in person. 4 times in fact, 2 time at his shop and twice on some local classic car show. The first few times, i didn't really know what i was looking for. After some research and talking to some mini guy, the last time i saw the car i was a little more careful. The paint is not the best of the best but it does look pretty good up close. It has a new cockpit with new seats carpets etc. the under side looks very clean with the black spray and so is the engine bay. I think almost everything cosmetic on the car is new (stainless steel bumper, lights, trims, window seals). It even has a new front wind shield.

I wasn't really thought about the rust being covered up possibility before i came to this forum. The thought at the back of my head is that every running car will have some rust problem here and there. Thanks to you guys i asked in more details about the restoration. Got some photos and still waiting for answers about rust treatment before the primers were put on.

I know at 11k i am not expecting a perfectly show room quality mini (those usually go for 30K+ with proper documents). I want a mini that is reliable, no surprises down the run, and can be made my own with person touches.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 08:05 AM
  #34  
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One other thing to ponder. Have you prepared yourself for the attention you are going to receive in a car in ralleye livery like this? I get more looks in my mini (BRG which is somewhat stealthy) than I did in my 911 turbo cab. People snap pics of it, pose against it (rivets on jeans!!!) and nearly drive me off the road doing silly stuff. It's a riot.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 02:44 PM
  #35  
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reality check

1. It appears to me you have decided to buy this car but are looking for an 'expert' to tell you it is a great deal. If it WAS a great deal, we'd buy the car.

2. This is a used car with unknown history. In my experience, something significant is going to go wrong with this car in the first 1000 miles. Be ready for it. I want a mini that is reliable, no surprises down the run .... they do not exist

3. You have seen several warnings about what you need to support a classic. These warnings are not unique to Mini and might be extended to exotics. I had the opportunity to drive a Ferrari 599 and a Lambo' this past weekend. The owner knows the clutch usually lasts about 15,000 miles and cost over $10,000 to replace; and a front windshield costs about $7000. Many buy a Ferrari and end up selling it at low milage because they can't/won't pay the maintenance ... look at e-Bay and the age/miles on most exotics for sale. Mini costs are less . . . but significant unless you are WELL prepared to do the work yourself...and even then you still need to buy parts.

4. We're back to the beginning: if the price feels good to YOU ... go for it. If you think you are getting a steal: RUN for it. Many folks at car shows put a 'for sale' sign on their car with a price WAY over what they ever expect to get . . . but sometimes someone with deep pockets, who just HAS to have that car walks by.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 05:50 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Capt_bj
reality check

1. It appears to me you have decided to buy this car but are looking for an 'expert' to tell you it is a great deal. If it WAS a great deal, we'd buy the car.

2. This is a used car with unknown history. In my experience, something significant is going to go wrong with this car in the first 1000 miles. Be ready for it. I want a mini that is reliable, no surprises down the run .... they do not exist

3. You have seen several warnings about what you need to support a classic. These warnings are not unique to Mini and might be extended to exotics. I had the opportunity to drive a Ferrari 599 and a Lambo' this past weekend. The owner knows the clutch usually lasts about 15,000 miles and cost over $10,000 to replace; and a front windshield costs about $7000. Many buy a Ferrari and end up selling it at low milage because they can't/won't pay the maintenance ... look at e-Bay and the age/miles on most exotics for sale. Mini costs are less . . . but significant unless you are WELL prepared to do the work yourself...and even then you still need to buy parts.

4. We're back to the beginning: if the price feels good to YOU ... go for it. If you think you are getting a steal: RUN for it. Many folks at car shows put a 'for sale' sign on their car with a price WAY over what they ever expect to get . . . but sometimes someone with deep pockets, who just HAS to have that car walks by.
Hi Capt_jb, i think might be right about the first one. The heart wants what the heart wants.
I think you are a little harsh about the "something significant is going to go wrong with this car in the first 1000 miles"
but ultimately you are right, the decision is mine and it's time for a reality check.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 06:24 PM
  #37  
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ACEkraut11
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Originally Posted by qzomak
Hi Capt_jb, i think might be right about the first one. The heart wants what the heart wants.
I think you are a little harsh about the "something significant is going to go wrong with this car in the first 1000 miles"
but ultimately you are right, the decision is mine and it's time for a reality check.
At the risk of misunderstanding him I do not believe his comment was made to sound harsh in any way. More it is an attitude you HAVE to have if you want to own a classic car. Things WILL go wrong, no matter what condition the car is in when you buy it. It is not a matter of if, but when. And a 1000 miles in a daily driver is not very long, but it can take you months or years to hit that in a classic, depending on your driving habits. You have to have the attitude that you EXPECT that it will happen. That way when it does you are prepared to handle it, fix it, and move on to enjoying the car.

I have a 1971 Triumph TR6 and each of the last 9 years some friends and I have driven our cars from Maine to Vermont for the British Invasion car show. We take the back roads, with ten minutes of highway driving just to avoid a congested town. We always leave early Friday morning for the 4.5 hour drive. Each year we get the cars prepped. One year on the Wednesday before we were due to leave the clutch gave out on my car. We finished after midnight that night replacing the clutch so we could drive on Friday, only to have the replacement clutch disk spring give way on the 3 mile trip home from my friends garage where we had done the repair. The next night we did it all again (only about 4 hours this time), finishing about 2am in order to drive the car to the show the next day.

You really have to either be lucky to have a good mechanic locally and have lots of money, or be willing to get a little dirty in order to keep everything running right on a classic car. There are a lot of people who buy them and sell them quickly because they are simply not ready for the maintenance and repairs that are necessary. If you own a classic car then you understand what is being said. As I read the posts here I can read between the lines of what most people are writing. Somethings you just cannot explain until you experience it for yourself. Assuming you purchase this car then save this thread and revisit it in a year. I bet the posts will take on a different meaning after a year of ownership.

Personally, I hope you do it, classic car ownership is a blast! I just want you to understand what you are getting yourself into if you do.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 06:38 PM
  #38  
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We are hear to make sure you aren't disappointed after the purchase.

The main thing I would be worried about with this car would be the engine, since they are such small engines and you never know what may go wrong.

As the others have said, owning a classic car is a blast but if you can't fix something yourself (or willing to learn, in my case) then you will be spending more money than expected.

I changed my oil the other day to have a gasket blow out. I lost $40 worth of oil and treatment when a new gasket only costs $1. So it's situations like those that you have to be weary about in any condition of the car.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 10:52 AM
  #39  
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So ... what's the story? Did you buy the car?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 01:51 PM
  #40  
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I think you are a little harsh about the "something significant is going to go wrong with this car in the first 1000 miles"

Yes I am .... it is tough luv ....

But keep the full statement in mind for the intended context:

In my experience, something significant is going to go wrong with this car in the first 1000 miles. Be ready for it.

8 out of the 10 buyers I've talked to about a potential purchase HAVE had a significant problem in the first year and I myself am in the group. So going back to points I tried to make, as well as others, your grace period for enjoying the afterglow of this purchase may be short. Now we've all seen many posts on NAM when a MINI crapped out a week after purchase and the posters are understandably annoyed at MINI and anxious for resolution and come here for a shoulder to cry on.

Not gonna happen that way with a Mini. Your seller is offering a warranty? Get it in writing and understand EXACTLY what is included..... in the US most used car sales are "as is" condition sold

Of the new owner stories I know:

- car overheated on the way home from purchase
- bonnet latch didn't catch and on the way home from purchase bonnet flew open and folded back
- SPi died a week after purchase; can't find an SPi smart mechanic
- on way home from purchase rear subframe collapsed
- discovered bad wheel bearings soon after purchase
- engine seized soon after purchase
- soon after purchase discovered blown head gasket, new head needed
- soon after purchase discovered blown head gasket, new short block provided by seller but installation required.
- required new fuel pump and all new fuel lines when on getting car home discovered fuel dripping from the pump.

If you don't have the cash to pay for a repair soon after purchase, or a skill set + tools + a place to work to DIY, there is a fair chance your new toy could quickly become a garage queen. Some find they have not the skills and tools OR a mechanic and they are really sc....d. One of my most recent 'pen pals' about a classic buy has already reached this point and is contemplating the sale of a don't run Mini ....

My intended point is don't empty the slush fund buying the car ... PLAN FOR more cost. If you are lucky you can use that $ to buy some bling down the road ..... or save it 'til the hammer drops. It is just a joy of owning an interesting vehicle

I spent well over $1000
 
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 08:25 PM
  #41  
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Don't forget the "soon after purchase" for me! When both my exhaust brackets failed and the exhaust was hanging on the engine.
 

Last edited by Gizmo; Oct 11, 2011 at 08:30 PM.
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