I've replaced my rear dry subframe. Now I'm ready to reinstall the radius arms. In the radius arm repair kit information (online parts catalog) there's a comment that "The bushing must be reamed/honed parallel with the centerline of the pivot hole".

Question 1: Can someone please shed some light on why the radius arm bushing needs to be honed. Or perhaps explain where the bushing is so I can visualize what that comment means.

Question 2: Is the cost of the UK radius arm rebuild kit worth it (compared to the generic rebuild kit)? Both kits require reaming/honing. $25 for generic rebuild kit vs. $50 for Quinton Hazel kit. Advice / suggestions please ...

Thanks,
Jeff

 

Jeff, hope this helps: http://keith.miata.net/mini/files/radius_arm_short.pdf

 

Ok, at least I can visualize it now. Seems odd that the bushings aren't already the correct size considering they're coming with the new shaft. Only thing I can figure is the bushing compresses a little when it's fit in the radius arm.

Anyway, thanks for the link. It was most helpful.
Jeff

 

Let me know if you want me to contact Simon about the reamer, although it looks like some have had success using a brake hone.

BTW I have a new brake hone if you want it. Got it to do my arms, but when I took them apart the original bushings were in great shape, no play, so I just installed new shaft. I have the older arms with the bushings in both ends.

 

You do not have to ream out old braring.................I used a dramel drill with a tungstem carbide bit and removed the roller bearing casing by gently removing a little at a time till I reached the outer skin the it fell out...crepeated other side washed arm then fitted new plastic sleeve then new bearings...................http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=37509 kit reqiured...........

 

Again ... ? The original post was asking why there was a need for reaming the new bushings, not the old bearings. Did you even read through the thread posts?

 

Because of the interference fit. The bushing gets squished down some after install, hence it's not possible to reliably account for that in manufacture.

 

YES I READ THE ORIGNAL POST......I was just offering a way of installing the new roller bearing caseings with out the use of specialest equipement.....such as a reaming machine.........I used this method and done 6000miles since and had no problems............