Ok.. I have no brake lights and no turn signals either. I checked Fuse #1 (4 fuse block on 82 mini) and it was fine. I replaced anyways but no change.

Where else should I be checking? If it matters the instrument light for turn signals doesn't work either, and the brake switch/button does not illuminate either.

Thanks

 

There should be two round (about 1" in diameter) fuses mounted on the right side of the firewall looking into the engine bay. Check those.

 

Could be a grounding problem. If you've got a volt-ohm meter you should be able to determine whether you've got both 12v and ground for those circuits. I'm not sure where you'd find connections for those since I replace my stock harness with a non-Mini harness but that's where I'd start. Or you could use a test light. and walk the wiring.

Check for 12v on the hot side of the fuses that you replaced. Perhaps you're not even getting power to the fuses. If you've got 12v at the fuses then it's either the wiring to the light switch / lights or it's a ground issue. If you've not got 12v at the fuses then it's probably a power distribution problem at the starter solenoid.

Good luck,
Jeff

 

over the years the Mini had a two fuse block, a four fuse block and then a 24 fuse block (so shows HAYNES). Which do you have?

My 79 has the 4 fuse block and I cleared up several problems at one by replacing that part. it is not expensive and goes in easy, just be sure you get all the wires back in the correct place. problem can be that the connections in the block for the fuses get gunked and corroded so even a good fuse makes poor contact and the juice won't flow across the fuse block. ditto with the lugs on either side - and you MAY need to clean or replace the connectors on the various wires .. ..

knowing some basics about using a volt/ohm helps a lot - you can pick up a cheap but adequate meter for $10

if your fuse block has been sitting w/out the cover this is an even more common issue . .

 

Thanks everyone. I checked the two in-line fuses those were fine too. I think that's 2phun was referring to.

I'll use a meter and see what I can find. The wiring in this car is just such a mess. Finally got the car back from the mech after putting in disc brakes... The fact that my taillights work and my hazards work would that tell me anything about the wielding/ground or different circuits?

 

Capt it has a 4 fuse box, FYI.

 

hmm ... gaining information in bits and pieces

brake lites - no

turn signals rear - no

turn signals front - ?

tail lites - OK

hazard flash - OK all the way around

but it looks like your issue IS with the connections at fuse one



dash turn indicator does not work for turns

all this worked b4 the brake work? Which was putting disks up front?

headlights ok? hi and lo?

high beam indicator ok?

horn works?

 

Yea, discs up front. Everything worked prior. Now no turn signals front or rear. No brake lights

Headlights, high beams, all work
Horn works
Wipers work
Hazard lights work front and rear
Taillights work
Interior hazard light button blinks, green light on speedo blinks some of the time and never with the hazard button light
The brake switch (never knew what that did) does not work either.

I've changes Fuse #1. I am using an old volt meter so not sure how to explain that I am getting intermittent 12v over the fuse. Depending on where I place it I can show voltage. Oddly though I show no voltage over the other three fuses. So I suspect something may be wrong with the volt meter...

 

Just an update on this. The issue was a faulty turn signal relay. Swapped that out and everything started working fine again. Thanks for the help

 

turn signal relay was impacting the brake lights? and all the other dash light issues?

btw - the brake check circuit probably went bye-bye when the disk brakes were installed. Did you get a brake vacuum servo? On my install the wires for the brake check were never reconnected then the fluid resiv' was changed but I don't worry about it. All that did as far as I can tell was check the fluid level and since I do an under bonnet check b4 every drive - no loss. But the terminals are there on the fluid cap so I suppose I could hook it back up.

 

Good question. I cleaned contacts all around, replaced bulbs, checked all connections etc. And when I changed the relay everything started working. At some point in cleaning, checking, replacing I prob fixed another issue that was affecting the ground, etc.

I got a new Brake Master Cylinder dual channel but no I did not add a servo from an 88+. So the pedal has a very stiff feel.

 

Did you check on the bulb as well.It could be wire short.