Welcome to another exciting installment of the monthly series "what the hell's wrong with Fiona... NOW?"

Our October issue: fuel leak!

Symptom: Stink o' gas.

Evidence: There's a flying-saucer-shaped object beneath the carb with fuel lines running in and out of it. Two on top to be precise. The "saucer" has a ring of small bolt-looking things around the perimeter. The whole thing is covered with wet-looking grime, which stinks of gas when rubbed and held to nose (phew!)

What happens: When I run the car, I can see the "saucer thing" get wet with gas. it eventually drips down onto the CV boot area.

Obviously this can't be good. Fire extinguisher is on shopping list (yeah, yeah, I know).

QUESTION: What's the saucer thingie? Assuming the fuel lines are as tight as they look, would that part need tightening or simply replaced? I'd say it was a fuel pump, but isn't that in the rear, by the fuel tank?

Thanks as always in advance!!

-Matt (and Fiona).

 

Ok.. is the saucer looking thing attached to the back of the block? Look like this?

 

My fuel pump is another version and just started leaking...will order one soon from Heritage....mine just pours fuel out on the ground....and so close to the exhaust. Maxfield, the Mini is on the sidelines now. I have a leaking rear brake cylinder as well.

 

That's it! So they just start LEAKING???

 

Isn't there a bumper sticker that says something like "Mini's don't leak - they just mark their territory"?

 

LOL.. yup but if they leak it is probably better that it is a bit of oil thats not as flammable. And yeah Matt, sounds like time to replace the fuel pump. You can take that one out and take it apart. They come apart but not sure where to get a rebuild kit for it. That picture came from 7 Enterprises. It does have a gasket that could be leaking, it might have some type of overflow/pressure valve stuck or wore out. Sometimes taking them apart and cleaning them putting them back together fixes them just be careful not to mess up the gaskets and do it in a pan in case of small parts or steel ***** or springs.. I have never had one of those in peticular apart so I dont knw the internal workings.. but best to replaced it if you can afford it. You can also get a blanking plate and get an electric pump and put it back by the tank.

 

What's the benefit to moving the pump to the rear?

I found the blanking plate - it seals the hole on the block:

http://www.7ent.com/detail.cfm?pageid=2354

(plus $.97 paper gasket: http://www.7ent.com/detail.cfm?pageid=267 )

If I go that route, what replacement pump do I need? Looks like a full fuel pump ***'y is around $90.

Pump ***'y (for 90's era Minis): http://www.7ent.com/detail.cfm?pageid=2221

ALSO - is this perhaps the rebuild kit you mean? http://www.7ent.com/detail.cfm?pageid=2217 It says "If the diaphragm on your pump fails but it still runs, this kit is the fix. Includes the AUB6097 diaphragm with a spindle length of 2.375" and gasket. Check length before ordering to avoid disappointment." - which sounds cryptic.

EDIT - there IS an "aftermarket" mechanical pump: http://www.7ent.com/detail.cfm?pageid=2869 What's odd is that it's $25 less than OEM, as advertised, but requires a $18 spacer so... WTF is the benefit of using it?

 

LOL.. well the nice thing about an aftermarket electric fuel pump is you can buy just about anything. I have one that looks like a little round cylinder with two wires coming out of it. positive and negative. Don't remember the volume but works well and bought it at autozone. You might try and call Heritage Garage too. I looked at MiniMania and didnt see your pump. I guess you should be thankful it isnt an SPI or MPI.. sheesh they are hundreds of dollars. 90 is still pretty steep. Here is the diagram and parts numbers for HG http://www.heritagegarage.com/catalog/fuel/5.htm you can ask them about the repair kit for yours too. I am not sure the diaphram listed on 7 ent. is the same thing or not.. one of the parts guys should be able to tell you. Are you sure the connections and hoses going to the pump are tight? Kind of a tight fit to check.. but fuel on the outside seems odd.

I have this one and it works just fine http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...goryCode=3339K

But with the plate the pump and everything you might be better off just spending the 90 on the original one.

 

The SU replacement for pre 1990 models says that the spacer is also needed for those. If mentions a design change in the pump something or other. You may not need the spacer then. The guys at the parts conter at 7ent probably can answer this question easily. It sounds like the aftermarket one is sold for people who don't like SU parts for some reason or another.

 

Matt, before you go off & convert to set of Kinsler fuel injectors & pump.... Take a screw driver & see if the screws on the flying saucer are loose. It might be that easy, if you are very lucky. I doubt the diaphram is bad. The car runs so it is pumping. If that doesn't work buy a new flying saucer aka: fuel pump or a rebuild kit for the old one.

 

Yeah, the leak's definitly on the OUTSIDE, but it's hard to tell the source - there's a thick layer of oil and gas sludge on the pump and I can see that sludge getting wet when I run the car. It runs so yeah, it's pumping.

Can I spray the pump with a strong solution of Simple Green and then blast it safely with a hose? As it is, I can't even SEE half the screws on the flying saucer.

It would be SO nice of all it were was a few loose screws or a lose hose fitting (for once).

 

Simple Green would work, you could also use brake clean or carb cleaner. Steal you wife's tooth brush to get any tough deposits off. Hosing it off won't harm anything. DON'T soak the distributor!!! Remember to clean the toothbrush before putting it back too.

 

ROFL.. good call there on the tighten screws first Not so sure a good call on the wifey's toothbrush though..especially if you want to keep Fiona teehee... too funny.

 

I'll use my daughter's as the wife's is not currently available. It's not like she USES it much anyway (shudder)... I'll get some brake cleaner - good call. Can you mix that with water after the deposits are off??

 

Sorry Matt, can't help being a smart ****. Heck it's what I do best.

No the brake clean won't mix with water well, but it will evaporate very quickly. Put some old newspaper under the area to catch the drips & gunk. Steal your wifes Sunday paper for that. Be careful of the fumes, do it in a well ventilated area.

 

Nah.. the fumes will give you flashbacks to the 60-70's

 

Yeah... like I need MORE dead brain cells...

While in NAPA Auto Parts today (buying a fire extinguisher... ahem!) I also got a can of "Heavy Duty Engine Cleaner and Degreaser"... that should do the trick I hope.

 

LOL.. that should work.. It looks like some of the screws are going to be underneath the pump.. not fun to get to I am sure.

 

Chuck, What does it go on?

 

I'm just gonna pull the whole thing off - that way I can take it apart, eyeball the diaphragm and then re-tighten the whole shebang.

 

Don't lose the pump shaft if you take it off........

Doing this from very ancient memories, but I seem to remember there's a short round shaft in the block that rides on a lobe on the cam, said shaft then pushes the arm on the pump to pump the gas. Sometimes when you remove the pump the shaft follows it out. If it does, just clean it up and smear a little grease on it to hold it in the block while you re-install the pump.

Edit: OOps, took another look at the pic, looks like the arm on the pump rides directly on the cam lobe - no shaft to worry about. Sorry.

I'd bet on a dead diaphragm causing the leak - they get old and stiff and split after a while, it's very easy to replace if you can buy one, but I think I'd just buy a new pump. Sometimes they add a spacer to keep the gas from getting too hot and causing vapor lock, that could simply be the difference in the new and old pumps.

 

This was the third thing I had to deal with on bringing OC home....the garage reaked of gas smell the next morning. Not good when yourgas hot water heater is out there....pilot light

Some mechanicals have screws but I think those are older ones cuz my old...nor the new have screw to hold the top on and yes, mine leaked around the seam 'tween the top and the bottom.

I bought a new mechanical and it works fine. Easy to replace alto the fit is a bit tight....I ended up buying an 11mm ratching socket to get in there. I tried to order the rubber spacer new...never got it (back order for 5 years now) but I bought gasket material and cut a new one to lay over the rubber spacer and all has been well for 5 years now. (b sure to get all the old gasket material off so you get a good fit)

This is a GREAT time to check the condition of any rubber segments in your lines. I bought a length of rubber and a stainless tube and make all new lines from the pump to the carb at this time.

I'm paranoid . I bought TWO SU mechanical pumps when I had the problem. The second is in my parts drawer. Make me an offer (PM) I'm a sucker for a club T-Shirt ....

Going electric is certainly an option, and then you can put the pump anyplace .... depends on where you want to draw the line 'tween original and mod'd in my opinion. Also depends on your wiring skills .....

 

you need to do away with machecical pump anf fit one of these .............
a facet electric pump and fit it to rear subframe............
no more problems......................

 

Sheesh, look how nice that looks, insulated from the subframe and everything. Probably cant hear it in the cab either. Mine is in the trunk attached to the back of the seat.. can hear it puttering away when I turn on the key. Always know its working that way

 

I hope when its all together and running I will let you know If I can here it ............