I know I am not the most popular guy around here, and I haven't made too many friends, but I thought I would give it a shot anyways.

Looking for a 1098 crank,broke mine right in half.

 

contact Dion at Djminis.com he might have one

 

Thanks Norm, Just shot him off an email.

 

Or convert your car to a 998...crank rods & piston swap

 

Almost cheaper to find someone selling a short block or used motor. Kinda weird that it broke where it did, wasn't revving or driving fast..

 

You could try Graham at Heritage Garage ... he might have one.

http://www.heritagegarage.com/

Sorry for my ignorance, but is 1098 the same as 1100? If so, the above website has a part number 8G2732 for the 1100 crankshaft.

Hope it helps,
Jeff

 

Thanks Jeff! Good call. Will email Graham.

 

I don’t think this is suppose to look like this.

I think APT has blanks for 195 that need to be cut, then they have some hardened super metal or whatever for 500 and more. It is an expensive break no matter how I look at it. I will rebuild the lower end. I have heard of that name you mentioned, I will go google his name. Appreciate your help.

The crank has been in the car for 30 years, so I guess I cant complain too bad. It has been in dry sometimes cold storage. I am sure the car has been frozen at least a couple of those years in PA. I had a huge storage and kept the car in the center, but it still got cold. That’s the only thing I can think. The Mini has been from California to Colorado, to South Dakota, then to Arizona and Utah, Texas then Pennsylvania. It has seen a lot of work over those years all by my hand. Everything than can happen to them, it has.

 

a little JB Weld, and she's good as new....

someone should have a spare crank laying about. most skipped the 1098 for an upgrade and went 1275+

 

Mania's site says they have it....

http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/8G2732/InvDetail.cfm

may be worth a call

 

ROFL.. .JB Weld it.. that stuff is amazing.. but I doubt that amazing I would love to find one that could be reground, 500 just for the crank is more than the wallet can stand at the moment.

 

I broke a cam shaft on my dads lawnmower one time and my dad JB welded it. It ran for a while but it had a tap because of it. Obviously you wouldn't do this to your engine but we didn't care if the lawnmower blew up.

 

Hi..mercy.......that seams to be a flaw in the casting by the look of blueness in pics Its quite common on slightly tuned motors where works been done ot block but crank has ben left std .has your motor been tuned............

 

Yeah someone said it looked like it got hot, also that I should replace all the rods. All the rods look light in color and one looks a bit darker. Looks like it is time for a full rebuild. The cylinder walls look good... doesn't burn any oil, but if I have to push the pistons out I cant see not replacing the rings.. I never raced the car or winded it out. I was at a steady 40mph when it gave way. Maybe a good time to upgrade to a 1275 or something.. IDK..I really wanted to just replace the crank, bearings and put it back together. I have a set of 3.44 gears I can put in too, but I dont want to take the trans apart for the same reason, once I dig into it I am liable to want to change everything.

The engine has a 12g206 head, lcb header, dual 1.25 SU so yeah mildly.. but it has been in the car for 25+ years, so I cant really complain too much, It has seen alot of miles with this setup from one side of the US to the other and back.. so I suppose it was just time.

 

Mk1leg, Have a look at this and tell me your assesment of the rods..#4 looks darker then the rest.. bad?

 

looks to of got a bit hot when you strip it down with head off and face down and crank pully to the R/H side and before you remove rods MARK end cap and rod 1 from rad end then 2 & 3 & 4 and chech shell for dryness and tram lines this is a good sign of poor oil delivery to mains and big ends and strip down oil pump and see if its got grooves in if so throw it away...........