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Door card fabrication?

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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 10:46 AM
  #1  
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Door card fabrication?

Has anyone ever made replacement door cards? If so, did you use Masonite or some other material? I want to retain my OEM cards, just in case I ever re-sell the car to someone that wants to return it to stock, so I'll need to fab up some replacements to cover.

Also, how did you adhere the material for your cards? Contact cement or something more sophisticated? I don't want whatever I use to stain/rot the leatherette I have to cover them in.

Thanks in advance!!!
 
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 03:07 PM
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I've not done it, but if I did I would use light masonite or tempered hardboard as a base (1/8" or 3/16"). Find it at Home Depot or Lowes. Cut out using your old cards as patterns.

Cover with a thin foam (1/8") or light layer of batting material on the to be upholstered side (nothing on the back). This will give a smooth and soft finished appearance. Attach foam with 3M spray adhesive. [Watch out for the spray adhesive in JoAnn fabrics & the like as it isn't the same quality. I had some that remained tacky and didn't hold very well ]

Then stitch up whatever pattern of vinyl cover you want on a sewing machine. I've bought thin vinyls at JoAnns that worked well. Align & stretch over the padded card and overlap at least an inch all the way around. Glue down with 3M adhesive on the backside..its not necesarry to glue to the front foam.

You can mount the panel with original plastic push-ins if you duplicate/match holes, or attach with screws through the front surface. ACE hardware carries chome oval head screws with matching chrome washers for such upholstery projects in their hardware drawer section. Careful using screws thru upholstery as they will grab the material & spin it/tear it. Best to make a hole first.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 06:13 AM
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From: Pelham AL
Another option for the base would be using luaun underlayment . You might find it a bit more flexible than Masonite. You could also use it as a template. I suspect its cheaper than Masonite, though I'm not sure of that. Trace the pattern from the original card onto the luaun, cut, fit, fine tune, etc. Then use that piece to make the final piece out of Masonite. Consider using a paint-on waterproofing membrane/sealer on the backside of whatever you decide to use.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 06:57 AM
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1/8" is what I want, yes?

Sounds like it's not too difficult. Thanks for the luauan tips and the tip on the padding - I would have forgotten that.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 09:43 AM
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From: Pelham AL
yes, 1/8". I don't think luaun comes much thicker. It may be measured in mm but somewhere in the neighborhood of 1/8" whether you use luaun or masonite.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 03:02 PM
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One advantage to Masonite or tempered hardboard is that it is available in a water-resistant composition/grade. I used small sheets of it in hot food containers to separate food containers that were 145'-160'. Even with the heat & steam they lasted forever. Luaun is not water-resistant.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 07:48 AM
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From: Pelham AL
Good point. Not sure where I'd find the water resistant version, at least in this part of the world. That's why I suggested the addition of a brush-on waterproofing membrane (used for ceramic tile work) on top of the luaun. If you can find that type of masonite though go with it; its easier to work with than luaun - no splinters.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 08:08 AM
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All great info - thanks for the tip on the moisture sealant - I wouldn't have thought about that.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 02:16 PM
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Hardboard (Hard Density Fiberboard - HDF)
HDF is a high quality panel manufactured from specially engineered fibers that are compressed under heat and pressure. These panels are produced by a "wet" or "dry" process.

The "wet" process produces panels 1/8 or 1/4 inch thick that have one smooth side and a screen pattern on the backside, and are designated S1S. The "dry" manufacturing process produces a panel that is smooth on both sides, or S2S. Hardboard was first produced in 1924 by W. H. Mason, founder of Masonite Corp. The term Masonite is therefore often used to denote hardboard products, High Density Fiberboard (HDF) has a density that ranges between 50 and 80 pounds per cubic feet.

Standard hardboard has excellent machining and finishing properties suitable for numerous interior uses such as paneling, partitions, furniture, toys, packaging, flush doors, garage doors etc.

Tempered hardboard is impregnated with special oil that is polymerized by heat treatment. It is particularly suitable in applications where there is a need for extra water resistance, surface hardness, rigidity, bending and tensile strength. It is often used in construction siding.
tempered hardboard is available almost everywhere - any lumber yard or in 2x4 sheets ay Lowes/Home Depot
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 02:18 PM
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Ding ding ding! I think we have a WINNAH!!!
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 02:21 PM
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Plywood Ratings Based on Core TypePlywood Core Type FlatnessSurface
UniformityDimensional
StabilityScrewholding
AbilityBending
StrengthIndustrial Particleboard
(Medium Density) ExcellentExcellentFair Fair Good Medium Density Fiberboard
(MDF) ExcellentExcellent Fair Fair Good Veneer
- All Hardwood FairGood Excellent Excellent Excellent Veneer
- All Softwood FairFairExcellent Excellent Excellent Lumber
- Hardwood or Softwood Good Good Good Excellent Excellent Standard Hardboard ExcellentExcellentFair Good Good Tempered Hardboard ExcellentGood Excellent Fair Fair Moisture Resistant
Particleboard ExcellentGood Good Good Good Moisture Resistant MDF ExcellentGood Fair Good Good Fire Resistant
Particleboard ExcellentGood Fair Fair Good

[FONT=Arial]Back to Top[/FONT]
 
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