New guy here....

I've been surfing, reading and talking to learn as much as I can...and now I'm ready to pull the trigger on a Classic.

I would like to use the car for 3 or track events yearly, a few autocrosses...and mostly just for tooling around town.

My question is in regards to 10"-vs-12" wheels. Obviously the bigger wheels will fit around bigger brakes...but is this needed. ...or will 10" wheels be adaquate. I know there are many variables ...but generally, what do you think?

I like the looks of 10" wheels...but what all should I consider?

Sincere thanks,
Rob

 

If you plan to use disc brakes on the front, there are only limited options with the 10" wheels... Luckily the excellent "Cooper S" disc set is one of those options.

10" and 12" wheels will have dramatically different handling and acceleration properties, so it's best to drive a car with several different options before making a decision. Obviously since this will primarily be a driver with AutoX/track secondary, I'd choose a wheel with smoother ride over one with twitchier handling. I have 12" wheels on my driver (a '92) and it's plenty nimble.

Maybe some of the AutoX/track tuner guys can chime in on what gives the best balance of performance and comfort in your application. Bottom line is that no matter what you decide on, there are wheel/brake options for all setups - it just might cost you a bit of $$.

 

Lots of Minis race on 10" wheels out there. A 10" car also rides nicer than the 12 or 13" wheeled cousins. I didn't think so until recently when we got a chance to drive a Rover Cooper (12" wheels) and a Sportspack car (13" wheels). The Sportspack is my favorite look, but man that thing bounces all over the place!

Hoosier makes slicks in the 10" size, and there's always the popular Yokohama A032R in 10". (Yoko also makes the A048 in 12 and 13"). You might have to buy these tires outside of the US though. I've e-mailed Yokohama asking them several times if they'd sell the A032R in the US and they said they don't / won't. (You can get A008s in 10" through Tire Rack though).

When it comes to brakes, don't forget KAD over in the UK. There are also 4 piston offerings from other suppliers like Minisport that'll fit under your 10" wheels - just make sure to check before you buy the brakes. I know KAD offers a template that you can stick in your wheel to see if it'll fit.

10" wheels are the most classic look. Wrap some race rubber around a set of Kodiak wheels (super light... made in canada, eh?) and you're all set. It all depends on what you want to do, and how much you want to spend.

I'd suggest going with the 10" wheels and trying out the A008s since you're going to be driving it on the street... or, if you can afford two sets of tires, pick up some A032Rs / Hoosiers for the track.

 

Thanks for the responses.

Yes, I'm planning on 2 sets of wheels..."street set" and a "track set". I can relate to the "ride" and comfort of the smaller wheels/taller tire compared to the larger wheels and shorter tires.

I'll also use 2 sets of brake pads....street and track.

-Rob

 

Classic Minis get "twitchier" with larger diameter tires, esp on the hiway...Having installed 13"x7"s on a saloon & autox it, I suggest the 10s. Spend the money on suspension improvements, not bigger tires.

For disc brakes, you could even go the Fiesta conversion (my next step).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fbBWdSDT7E

 

there is a set of 7.9" BRakes that fit under tens.

 

The Fiesta caliper conversion reduces 8.4" rotors to 7.9" Fiesta has pretty large pads too

 

I just checked out the Kodiak website. Their wheels are very cool. But very expensive. I wonder what the Kodiak 6x10 4-spoke wheels weigh, say compared to 6x10 Minilites or 6x10 Revolutions? When a wheel is so small, does saving a pound (or so) per corner make a noticeable difference? Granted, there's a noticeable change in ride characteristics between 21-lbs 17" wheels versus 15-lbs 17s, but what happens to the equation when it's scaled down to pint-sized 10s? Anyone know?

 

Good question. I don't have the answer, but, taking a pound off a wheel (upsprung weight) on a car that has <100HP would be equivalent to a few pounds off a car that has 200HP??

There's noticeable changes in ride characteristics between 15", 16" 17" & 18" rims...therefore, it would hold for 10", 12", & 13" too

 

All my racer buddies tell me unsprung weight (wheels and such) is the enemy. I wish I knew exactly how to reply, but ... well, get the lightest wheels that fit in the budget. That's what I'd aim for.

I wonder how light the "Weller" steelies are? I've seen many pictures of them on cars. Hmm. They'd probably be fairly cheap. The thing that seems to hold back classic Minis in wheel choice is the PCD. Not too many folks make a 4x4" selection... especially in 10"!

 

I think I'll post a new thread regarding 10" wheels and their weights in the tires/wheels forum to see if any those gurus know anything about toy tires.

 

Here's the link to the new thread for lazy folks like me who don't normally attend those other forums.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=108775