Re: P1477 Leakage Diagnostic Pump Reed Switch Did Not Open

Looks like this one has gotten a little traction in the past, curious if anyone has any suggestions.

I recently acquired a 2003 Cooper S (R53), which I got a great price on as it needed a bit of work on it but overall drove like a dream. When I took ownership, it had a P1477 code (I know, but I got it for a song, and from researching it looked like my worst case scenario was to have to replace the pump), and I just haven't been able to shake it.

Here's my history:
* Reset the code, it came back after two days.
* My trusted Mini mechanic found a crack in the exhaust system, thought it might be related and wanted it fixed before replacing the pump. A mile from my trusted muffler shop to have the crack welded, the whole cat came undone (and I noisily limped in to the shop). Replaced the cracked section and the whole cat, reset the code, and have been running quietly and smoothly since, but the code did return.
* My trusted Mini mechanic and I then agreed on replacing the leak diagnostic pump. SES light stayed off for two days with light to moderate driving in both city and highway conditions but came back on day 3.

Any suggestions? Before doing any of this, I got an emissions test (Colorado just gives you an "advise" warning on the SES light but doesn't fail you if the car passes emissions otherwise), and the car was about as clean as could be. Car continues to drive like a dream.

If it's just emissions related, and if I'm clean there, do I just keep my OBD-II scanner handy and reset as needed? Or is this something I should be digging deeper into?

Thanks!

 

Still having this issue... I've heard that it could be a collapsed vacuum line. I may have access to a lift -- any suggestions (or better yet photos) on what I might be looking for?

 

I just had my second LDP installed in two months. Code 1477 came back again after two days. Also hoping for some further insight.

 

Are you guys sure these mechanics of your really replacing the pumps? Or just resetting the OBD?

Some of them are down right thieves.

 

Besides really having a great relationship with my mechanic, I've gotten a bit more confident with working on my Mini myself.

Recently jacked up the rear, removed the right passenger tire, popped off the wheel liner, and took a look myself. The pump is brand new. The charcoal filter and the hoses had a good bit of standard road grime, but you could eat breakfast off the pump.

After starting her up and listening for a bit, I'm actually kinda worried that the pump isn't even engaging. I'm not sure what a working pump sounds like or feels like, and I know it's a diaphragm pump so it's probably not going to be all that noisy, but it didn't seem to be doing anything. I'm wondering if I have an electrical issue, or maybe I actually need to kick into a drive cycle to have it engage?

Also checked the hoses -- no obvious damage but that doesn't completely rule out a leak.

Tempted to borrow a voltage meter and test the wires coming into the pump. Although if it is electrical, I'm not sure where to go from there as these wires seem to go into the deep guts of the car.

 

If the pump should make ANY noise, go to harbor freight and get a mechanics [SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]stethoscope. You’ll know it its working or not. [/FONT][/SIZE]

 

Well, he had it three days trying to figure it out and didn't charge me anything the second time around as it was under parts warranty. Seems like he is legit.

 

Seeing this same code... Did you get yours resolved ?

 

I have a 2006 S and this pesky code popped up on me. I found that one of the connections on the vacuum lines under the intercooler and the intercooler intake horn had broke. This is also the same area I've had problems with in the past with the vacuum line that goes to the fuel regulator causing many issues for a long time.

The connection that broke this time is part of fuel tank breather valve system. One of the nipples broke off in the hose. Once I replaced the hose, reconnected everything and reset the code it has not come back. Before the code would pop back on in 2-3 start and stops after a reset. Also, for the ecu to do a system check on the evap system the gas tank must be below 3/4's of a tank.

I use Penske Parts and its under fuel preparation then fuel tank breather valve, part # 4 or part #13907515434 and its $47.

 

Had the same code on my R53 (2003) for quite a while - finally fixed it 'cause my emissions test is coming up. Started by removing the pump/charcoal canister assy and visually checking lines. I was almost resigned to getting the lines smoke checked and/or try replacing the pump. Then, just when I thought it was hopeless, my mechanic found the problem.

Directly beneath the right (passenger) side of the intercooler, there is a little vacuum nipple on the intake manifold. Connected to that nipple is a right angle fitting that connects to a short (3 to 4 inch) vacuum line, then another straight fitting onto a longer vacuum line. The right angle fitting had a hole in it and was badly deteriorated. As in basically falling apart. It had the consistency of partially dried snot. All soft and spongy.

The fitting at the other end was fine. Great shape. I can only assume that the bad fitting did not meet quality specs.

Had to remove the intercooler to get enough room to work a short piece of flexible line into place, replacing the whole section removed.

Cleared the code and hasn't been back since. Yay!

Moral of the story - take a good look at all vacuum lines and connections before replacing expensive parts.

 

Victory today, as I was finally able to to clear the P1447 & P2418 codes on my R55 2010 (base) Clubman. A few weeks ago I tried replacing the vapor purge solenoid up underneath the intake manifold, but no luck. Next hunt & peck part was going to be the Leak Detection Pump (LDP) itself. But today, while replacing the rear brakes, including wear sensor cable, I found the problem. The wear sensor cable is bundled with the LDP wiring (and the ABS cable), and routed through a sharp-edged little metal clamp, snapped onto the right rear suspension member. While replacing the brake wear sensor cable, I just happened to notice that the LDP wiring was chaffed and broken! Two of the four LDP harness wires were compromised (pic attached). Repair required only a few cents worth of solder & electrical tape! Voila - codes cleared! Bitter-sweet really, as I'm a bit disappointed that 'wire chaffing' is a problem in this day & age. The car is only ~4-1/2 years old, with only ~64k miles. I guess Lucas, Prince of Darkness lives on, except these days he lights up the dashboard instead of going dark...

 

I finally took ours to MINI of Portland. The performed a pressurized smoke test and could the problem in minutes. I won't take anything to my local BMW dealer again.

 

Read his feedback and this was the first place I looked (and easiest).. around the intercooler. A piece of tube had broken right at the nipps and I simply used the shortened tube to re-attach the connection. No more check engine nor reed valve codes for 4 days. I use a handy Launch CRP129 for codes/resets.. for 4 cars. Love it!
Thanks again Terry!

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Ha ha ha!

I’ve cleared the “1477 Reed Switch Does Not Open” four times. I took the vapor purge canister out and disassembled it to no avail. Then I read this and looked at my vacuum line to the fuel regulator. I had removed it and forgot to plug it back in. 2 second job to fix.

Now runs great.😀

Thanks,
Peter