F60 F60 Mudflaps
We got them
https://www.waymotorworks.com/front-...ountryman.html
and rears
https://www.waymotorworks.com/rear-m...ountryman.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/front-...ountryman.html
and rears
https://www.waymotorworks.com/rear-m...ountryman.html
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 71
Likes: 6
From: Boston, MA
Hi,
I have mudflaps on my F60 (I'm in Boston), but I had them included as part of my build.
I often buy parts/accessories from this MINI dealer on ebay as they have good prices compared to my local dealer. They have the F60 Mudflaps set of 4 for ~$108 shipped.
Ebay has a few listings for "OEM" set of 4 shipping from China for $49...not sure how it could possibly be this low if it's really OEM.
WayMotorWorks has them as well.
Not sure about other types outside of the OEM ones.
I have mudflaps on my F60 (I'm in Boston), but I had them included as part of my build.
I often buy parts/accessories from this MINI dealer on ebay as they have good prices compared to my local dealer. They have the F60 Mudflaps set of 4 for ~$108 shipped.
Ebay has a few listings for "OEM" set of 4 shipping from China for $49...not sure how it could possibly be this low if it's really OEM.
WayMotorWorks has them as well.
Not sure about other types outside of the OEM ones.
Rallyarmor is another company to look at, we carry them and they make much larger ones then the factory MINI ones.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 93
Likes: 14
Looks like you have limited choices with OEM at $100 or so and China/Hong Kong imitations for about half that and a month's shipping. What I'd like to see is a 'stealth' version like these I had on my SRT8. These worked great and looked great. I'm not a big fan of how the OEM flap design covers the outer edge of the wheel well arch in such a big way.
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 93
Likes: 14
After putting some miles on our CM in all kinds of weather and road conditions, I quickly realized that flaps are would definitely help keep the flanks cleaner. So about two weeks after ordering from China, received a set of these $49 OEM knockoffs ($13 of that was shipping). They are very well made and flexible; I was pleasantly surprised! Because I didn't want to mess with the BMW plastic rivets or getting the plastic rivet tool, I ditched most of the hardware kit that came with it and instead used 3M acrylic molding tape to securely mount the flaps. Easy and secure install as long as you properly clean and prep the tape surfaces with rubbing alcohol and (optional) hexane activator. Very happy with these flaps.
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2nd Gear
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 71
Likes: 5
From: MD, USA
After putting some miles on our CM in all kinds of weather and road conditions, I quickly realized that flaps are would definitely help keep the flanks cleaner. So about two weeks after ordering from China, received a set of these $49 OEM knockoffs ($13 of that was shipping). They are very well made and flexible; I was pleasantly surprised! Because I didn't want to mess with the BMW plastic rivets or getting the plastic rivet tool, I ditched most of the hardware kit that came with it and instead used 3M acrylic molding tape to securely mount the flaps. Easy and secure install as long as you properly clean and prep the tape surfaces with rubbing alcohol and (optional) hexane activator. Very happy with these flaps.
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 93
Likes: 14
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 93
Likes: 14
A rivet tool is what you need. Check Harbor Freight or you might already have one? Bring the rivet with you to confirm that the tool die fits the pin diameter of the BMW rivet. Or use 3M molding tape as I did.
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 71
Likes: 5
From: MD, USA
I ditched most of the hardware kit that came with it and instead used 3M acrylic molding tape to securely mount the flaps. Easy and secure install as long as you properly clean and prep the tape surfaces with rubbing alcohol and (optional) hexane activator. Very happy with these flaps.
Can you detail how you installed the flaps with the 3M acrylic molding tape? You said ditched most of the hardware, what did you end up using? What's the "hexane activator"?
Thanks!
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 93
Likes: 14
The hexane activator is a chemical used to prep the adhesive mating surfaces for a strong bond. I bought a pack of 5 pads for my install. Not absolutely necessary but I wanted the most secure bond. The activator popped up automatically when I was putting the 3M tape in my Amazon cart.
The only hardware I used were the metal clips for the front flaps and maybe two screws for the rears. Dry mount the flaps and note where the mating surfaces are with the wheel well trim. Then apply the activator to the flap mating surfaces and apply the 3M tape. Do not remove the liner from the exposed tape until you ready to install. Do this prep work for the other three flaps.
Clean the wheel heel well trim surfaces. When you’re ready, remove a short section of the tape liner from one flap and apply the hexane activator to the wheel well trim mating surfaces. Working carefully, attach the flap to the trim, pulling the liner tape off as you work your way up the wheel well. On the fronts, fold the little flap over and behind the trim and secure with the metal U-clip.
If you work carefully, this is an easy install that doesn’t require replacing plastic rivets. The adhesive is unforgiving so be double sure before you apply.
Good luck with your install!
The only hardware I used were the metal clips for the front flaps and maybe two screws for the rears. Dry mount the flaps and note where the mating surfaces are with the wheel well trim. Then apply the activator to the flap mating surfaces and apply the 3M tape. Do not remove the liner from the exposed tape until you ready to install. Do this prep work for the other three flaps.
Clean the wheel heel well trim surfaces. When you’re ready, remove a short section of the tape liner from one flap and apply the hexane activator to the wheel well trim mating surfaces. Working carefully, attach the flap to the trim, pulling the liner tape off as you work your way up the wheel well. On the fronts, fold the little flap over and behind the trim and secure with the metal U-clip.
If you work carefully, this is an easy install that doesn’t require replacing plastic rivets. The adhesive is unforgiving so be double sure before you apply.
Good luck with your install!
https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/...Id=32847643983
The rear flaps installed using the OEM holes. The front flaps used the lower OEM hole and a clip for the top. I added a screw about halfway up.
The OEM clips can be reused. Insert a small diameter tool to push the pin through and out. The clip will release. I used an ink pen tube (clipped) as a new pin to re-attached the OEM clip.
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2nd Gear
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 71
Likes: 5
From: MD, USA
The hexane activator is a chemical used to prep the adhesive mating surfaces for a strong bond. I bought a pack of 5 pads for my install. Not absolutely necessary but I wanted the most secure bond. The activator popped up automatically when I was putting the 3M tape in my Amazon cart.
The only hardware I used were the metal clips for the front flaps and maybe two screws for the rears. Dry mount the flaps and note where the mating surfaces are with the wheel well trim. Then apply the activator to the flap mating surfaces and apply the 3M tape. Do not remove the liner from the exposed tape until you ready to install. Do this prep work for the other three flaps.
Clean the wheel heel well trim surfaces. When you’re ready, remove a short section of the tape liner from one flap and apply the hexane activator to the wheel well trim mating surfaces. Working carefully, attach the flap to the trim, pulling the liner tape off as you work your way up the wheel well. On the fronts, fold the little flap over and behind the trim and secure with the metal U-clip.
If you work carefully, this is an easy install that doesn’t require replacing plastic rivets. The adhesive is unforgiving so be double sure before you apply.
Good luck with your install!
The only hardware I used were the metal clips for the front flaps and maybe two screws for the rears. Dry mount the flaps and note where the mating surfaces are with the wheel well trim. Then apply the activator to the flap mating surfaces and apply the 3M tape. Do not remove the liner from the exposed tape until you ready to install. Do this prep work for the other three flaps.
Clean the wheel heel well trim surfaces. When you’re ready, remove a short section of the tape liner from one flap and apply the hexane activator to the wheel well trim mating surfaces. Working carefully, attach the flap to the trim, pulling the liner tape off as you work your way up the wheel well. On the fronts, fold the little flap over and behind the trim and secure with the metal U-clip.
If you work carefully, this is an easy install that doesn’t require replacing plastic rivets. The adhesive is unforgiving so be double sure before you apply.
Good luck with your install!
How did you fasten the screws for the rear? Take off the wheels? And by the metal clips you mean the 2 dark ones?
5th Gear
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 622
Likes: 135
I'm about to do this job this weekend as well. I didn't get any instructions with mine (bought from ECS Tuning). Anyone get instructions or have a pointer to a PDF? I'm sure it will be somewhat self-explanatory when I get down to it.
Just found these links as good references:
https://www.minimania.com/pdfile/R56_Mud_Flaps.pdf
https://www.outmotoring.com/images/h...r_mudflaps.pdf
Just found these links as good references:
https://www.minimania.com/pdfile/R56_Mud_Flaps.pdf
https://www.outmotoring.com/images/h...r_mudflaps.pdf
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 93
Likes: 14
The re is one screw on the bottom of each rear wheel well trim that I removed and replaced after installing each mudflap. No need to remove wheel. Yes, the dark U-clips that attach over the folding flap on each front mid flap.
5th Gear
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 622
Likes: 135
Yeah, no metal.
And in case you didn't know...I didn't know...the plastic rivets that are there already are easily removed after you push the center pin all the way through until if falls out. Couldn't be simpler.
And in case you didn't know...I didn't know...the plastic rivets that are there already are easily removed after you push the center pin all the way through until if falls out. Couldn't be simpler.
