Hello, I've got a 2012 Countryman and it's been eating rear tires for several years. A few years ago I discovered extreme cupping wear on the rear tires 18k miles after installation. The car had about 51k miles on it. I replaced the rear shocks and mounts, tires and had it aligned. I am now seeing cupping again to the wear indicator by approximately 18k miles on the new pair. Admittedly, I have not rotated them. The only other thing I can think of is the control arm bushings, I would not have expected them to be worn that early? Is there anything else I should be looking at?

Thanks, Jason

 

I have a 2016 CMS All4 and it is also cupping the rear tires badly. When I bought it at 30k miles the dealership had replaced one of the rear control arms due to it not being able to get into alignment... At my last oil change (now 60k miles) at the dealer they noted the rear shocks have leaked and are ineffective. I bought some new Bilstein B6's to get put on soon and will then do another alignment. I was told by 2 different Mini owners the OE shocks (Bilstein B4's) are only good for about 30k miles tops. So the combination of crappy shocks and run flats (mine has the Pirellis) may lead to cupping. Hoping that the upgraded shocks will help. My independent shop says the cupping for sure is coming from the shocks. My have to do more regular rotations also.

 

This all sounds like my experience, especially the timing. I wish I would have bought B6s now. Thanks for your reply.

 

I second the recommendation for better shocks.

I would also suggest a set of trailing arm bushings:
https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...=1488#attr=925

Replace the shocks with Bilstein B6s, add the bushing inserts, then get a quality alignment. Make sure your toe and camber numbers are the same from side to side.

 

Is the bushing kit something easy to put on with the vehicle up or does it require compressing the rear springs etc.. I take it from your recommendation that you noticed a difference adding the kit.

 

You’ll need to drop the rear trailing arm, which requires removing the rear shock and the front trailing arm bushing bracket.. If you’re replacing the rear shocks, you’re like 40% there. 4 more bolts and you’re there.

The trailing arm bushings reduce the compliance of the front of the trailing arm, which keeps your toe in check as the suspension moves around. Makes the handling more predictable.

 

OK great, I purchased them to do it at the same time since I have to get the B6's put on and get an alignment. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Do B6's lower the an R60?


.

 

I sure hope not, they are supposed to be an upgrade to the B4's is what I was told.

 

I don’t think so. Only B8 and B12 kit.

 

Would you recommend the powerflex control arm bushings in addition to the trailing arm bushings? I feel like at this point I should complete the replacement of everything back there!

 

No insert is available for the control arm bushings. You need to remove the old bushings and install new. I recall reading that removing the old bushings is not easy.

 

I don’t think there are B8s available for the Countryman… However, the B8s on their own will not lower the car. Neither will the B6 shocks. The ONLY difference between the B6 and B8 shocks are the B8s are designed for use with lowering springs. The damping profile is exactly the same between the two.

You don’t need control arm bushings. The OEM bushings are tight enough that you won’t see any difference going with poly. Plus the installation is a rough task since you have to fully remove the OEM bushings.

 

With that, I am not sure what I should try next, I replaced the shocks (B4), mounts and aligned it, and I am getting the same type of wear after 18k miles.

 

Well just got it all done this weekend at an independent shop. They definitely didn't like the railing arm inserts, said they were a real PITA to do. Shocks were not that bad.

 

How's it feel?

 

Rides really good, I didn't realize how much noise it was making in the back with the shocks shot on bumps. Its still definitely a firm ride with Run Flats, make no mistake but it feels better with the shocks and the inserts (and new top mounts)

 

make sure you have the toe checked, that's what causes most abnormal wear and cupping

 

Toe can be a PITA so some places are lazy about. I finally found a local place willing to put in the effort to get it right.