I bought my Countryman used and this weekend while installing a new rear sway bar I learned that the threads in one of the bolt holes were stripped at some point in its life. Looking at it there isn't enough metal left to repair the threads so I'm looking at a hub replacement. The Mini dealer wants over $500 to do it, so I'm looking at doing it myself.

I can't find any instructions or tips online, anyone done this? It appears relatively simple but I'm sure there are a gotcha or too I should be aware of.

 

OK, to better understand ... when you say rear hub assembly are you are referring to the "Wheel hub with bearing, part number: 33416786552 priced at $230.65"?

If it is... then it looks like it is a matter of...
Block the front tires
Release the hand brake
Jack up the rear of the car
Removing your wheel/tire
Remove the brake carrier (suspend from hook to not put pressure on hose)
Remove the TORX-COUNTERSUNK HEAD SCREW. M10X13 ZNS3 from the brake rotor
Remove the brake rotor
From the back of the Trailing Arm remove the four Hex bolt with washer. M10X35-10.9
Remove the Wheel hub with bearing...

I figure it should be about 30 minutes...

That should be it... to install reverse the steps.

I don't have one in front of me to double check but that should be it...


Motor on!

 

Thanks! That looks like the right general part, but for a 4 bolt Mini rather than a Countryman. The part I'm replacing is 33409806302 - Hub & bearing W/O 4WD
Your steps match up with what I thought were the right steps, except you missed the part where I'll drink a beer. Any idea on where I could find torque specs and where I'd need lock-tite?

 

Just did this on an ALL4, a couple tidbits:
1) Not a 30 minute job, mainly due to the hub bolts having loctite and debris
2) Required tools: e14 torx socket (the female version) for the caliper bracket, 32mm 6 point socket for the axle nut.
3) Recommended: impact + extensions for the hub bolts and breaker bar to get them started, penetrating oil / die grinder with wire wheel to get the debris off the hub threads prior to removal

I ordered the following for bearing bolts (07119906109) and wheel nut (31106773005). wheel nut was correct but bearing bolts were too short and too small (M18 head and about 55-60mm long), don't recall where those numbers came from. Axle nut and shaft have detents where you chisel the nut to presumably keep it from rotating. I had no torque specs so everything was as tight as I took it off with the breaker, although the axle nut was loose and I am used to torque turning those, so that got quite a bit more.

Wish there was a shop manual for these things....

 

From the back of the Trailing Arm remove the four Hex bolt with washer. M10X35-10.9


could someone post the torque specs to the four bolts that hold the hub assembly? It has been a nightmare finding info on the R60s, this is the best post I have found. Thank you.


I also asked over here, and will take any info from here and post there.


https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4284999

 

Had the pleasure of doing this again, on the front this time, and the bolts were different.

On the front, the caliper bracket bolts and the wheel hub bolts are the same with the standard M16 hex heads. These are of proper length such that they don't stick out much if at all through the hub flange where they can pickup debris, so they were easier to pull out. One tip is to take the axle nut off first and push the axle back such that you can access the upper rear bolt. Definitely will want a short socket to get it to clear the cv-joint.

Had an issue with the rotor screw as I stripped it using an impact on the hex (supposedly mini only uses torx but in this case it was allen). Ended up using a small chisel on the sides of the bolt head to make a groove then pound it around. Probably should buy new ones in advance.

Up to this point my car had been under mini extended maintenance so they are the only ones to touch the car besides myself. Not sure if the hardware was changed out at some point, but might be smart to check prior to starting the job so you have the right tools and replacement hardware.

 

I'm aware this is an ancient thread, but in case anyone stumbles across this thread, official torques and parts from Mini TIS:
Hub to trailing arm: 100 Nm
(Torque crosswise like an X pattern)
Axle nut to hub: 182 Nm
And the bolts are not M10x35. They are M12x1.5x60 grade 10.9 with factory red loctite