I finally got some time to get to the car and take out the M7 USS and bolt in the WMW X Brace and the DNA bar. The car already handled very well but now...I am over the moon with it, BUT the Xbrace vibrates against the RMW Shorty Header I have. I'm not sure how to fix it. The initial impression has me salivating about how well the car performs and how even more balanced it is. I'm exhausted and still need to get some actual work done, but feel free to ask any and all questions. If anyone has a tip to remove the vibration from the shorty header to the Xbrace I will paypal you $10.00 so you can buy yourself a beer or two.

Current Suspension:
PSS10'S
Vorshlag camber plates
DNA brace
WMW Xbrace
M7 Upper strut tower brace
Megan anti roll centers
Powerflex LCAB
New inner and outer ball joints
M7 Center brace
ultra racing rear brace
22mm NM engineering rear sway
DOORMAN upper and lower rear control arms
WAVETRAC LSD

 

Worn/sagging/broken motor mounts can lead to contact with the header. Also, WMW has posted in the past that the brace was designed for the stock cat and non-stock cats might have clearance issues depending on size or location. I’ve also seen posts about using a few washers on some(all?) mounting points for a little more clearance.

Is the pipe hitting on the X or on the front bar, and is your car lowered? If hitting on the front and you have enough ground clearance, an R56 x-brace might work. I think they are the same except for a small U bend in the front pipe to clear the exhaust.

Check with Way as he probably knows if the RMW shorty and x-brace combo is workable, if washers can be added for clearance, or if an R56 x-brace is an option.

edit: Also, check the center exhaust hangers to make sure they’re not letting the resonator section hang down and pull the cat into the brace.

 

It slightly hits at the "x" point but when it does its annoying as hell. I have the vibratech upper and lower motor mounts so sagging isn't possible. If the center hanger could pull the entire thing up 1/2" (12mm) I would have plenty of clearance.

Maybe I'll try that

 

Looks like you have one stiff Mini there!!

Sometimes you can wrap the exhaust hanger with a worm clamp to snug it up. I might try that first.

 

Thanks, and yes its stiff and corners very flat. I also have the rear strut brace from The R53 Owners Club.(more asstetics than anything)

Its a great performing canyon carver that goes well and stops great. I just wanted to see how great I could get it to handle without putting a cage in it.

 

Looks like a blast! Thanks for sharing

 

Looks awesome, thanks for sharing these pics!

 

Curious to know how much water gets into your engine compartment with the fender liners removed?

 

Not much because I typically don't drive it in the rain. When it does I hose and wipe it down.

 

These cars are actually pretty stiff from...the factory..!

You guys with all of the add-on goodies, have any of you weighed that additional parts that you are adding to the car.
The stiffness that you "may" be adding, is most likely set back by the additional weight.

Additional weight slows the acceleration. Makes the engine work harder.
Additional weight slows the braking. Makes the brakes have to work harder.
Additional weight slows the handling. Makes the shocks, springs, tires and anti-sway bars have to work harder.

So...where again is the benefit of the new weight to an already stiff car ?

Mike

 

Adding stiffness make the shocks, springs, sway bars do their job better by reducing even more body flex. I do agree that the Mini is already stiff, but that doesn't mean there is no room for improvement. Fitting the cabrio braces to the hatch, for instance, makes this apparent

Also, reducing unsprung weight has far more benefits for acceleration/braking (lighter wheels+brake discs)

 

Save your breath Mike...they all like to spend money on the latest greatest must have part....because the car "feels better...stiffer"
BTW did you notice he also has the roll center spacers...have fun with the bumpsteer!!!!

 

Adding a few pounds under the car can lower the center of gravity. Stiffening the chassis lets the suspension move as intended, and can help make the car more predictable with its handling. Changing out the boat anchors that Mini calls “wheels” will improve acceleration, braking, and handling much more than trying to reduce the weight of the chassis.

If you have never driven a Mini back to back after adding chassis braces, you don’t really have a basis for comment.

 

Your absolutely right...I have NO experience with a Mini...in fact I don't even own one or race one. Neither does Mike (OCR).

 

The car was already stiff(ish) but I did notice a good amount of change with the modifications. As for weight...well when I shave off the 20 lbs on the driver I put on since turning 40 I can complain about the additional weight of the parts. This is not a track car, but it will go on the track. I am not looking to compete at any level, I am more looking to having an amazing handling R53 with full interior that can be driven on a weekend excursion to a track, put in some laps, and drive home. I have not noticed any bumpsteer with these ARC, however, if I do I will find a set of Z3 tie rods. I mainly purchased them because the car is about 18mm (3/4") lower. As for power it has a forged short block, bvh, Grand am Cam, 550's, 17% pulley and ported SC. The brakes are the JCW BBK. So what I built the car for, it does very well.