I'm thinking about doing a little more work on my Mini S Convertible than I've done for years. Thinking about oil changes, etc., what's the best way to get the car off the ground? Ramps, Floor Jack & Jack Stands, other? Can you point me toward any good sources or products?

Thanks

 

It really depends on what you're planning on doing. For oil changes, ramps are probably the quickest & easiest solution. But for things like tire rotation, suspension work and replacing brake components, you'll need a jack and stands.

Pretty much any jack stands out there will do the job, so look for convenience features like a ratcheting height adjustment instead of the traditional "put the pin through the hole" adjustment. Also, you'll want a fairly low-profile floor jack if you've lowered your MINI at all.

I'd check out Northern Tools and Harbor Freight, especially if they have stores in your area. Most of their jacks & stands are very reasonably-priced, and while many of the models may not be suitable for everyday professional use, they're more than adequate for the home mechanic.

 

I'd agree with ScottRiqui.

Ramps are nice and I have a set, but can't use them for the front since I lowered the MCS. I use 4 jacks stands which only takes a few minutes. Until I go get a low profile floor jack, I use my old floor jack by running the MCS up on a couple bricks to provide enough clearance to get the jack under.

 

Excellent low-cost ramp: Rhino Ramps 8000 -- well-designed for low-clearance cars like MINIs and Miatas, and about $35 a pair

 

As far as ramps go I've only had bad experiences. From the annual news story about them cracking and the car pinning someone, to having the grommets on the bottom fail and have them come flying at me while the car was in a rapid decent to the ground down the ramp portion.

If you're going to do lots of work I highly recommend investing in a good jack, 3 quick pumps and the jack is to load, and about 10 more to height vs over 100 pumps for the same processes. Get some sturdy 2ton jack stands, take a good look at the "legs" there's a wal-mart special GM branded set that has thin legs with fins on the bottom, I was traveling and needed an oil change, I thought this would suffice, yet on concrete and asphalt they alway tip up onto two legs putting all the weight on just the fins, which is extremely unsafe IMO.

If you go to 1st gen performance mods on the top of the forum there's a how to section, as part of the other installs and maintenance work there's some god descriptions on how to properly and safe raise the MINI.

 

If you don't own any jacks or stands yet, you owe it to yourself to go to Sears and examine their new jack and stand system (sorry, I can't remember the specific name or model number) that combines the two functions. The jack mates with the stand, eliminating the need to put the jack under one spot and the stand under another.

 

I think I found the Sears jack/stand combination device you're referring to. It's the "Lift N Secure" Jack System, part number 50187.

There were originally $300, but Sears blew them out at $80-100 over the holidays, and it looks like they no longer offer it at all, so they probably decided to discontinue it.

Looking at the specs I could still find, it appears that the minimum height was 5-1/2 inches, so I don't know that it would have fit under the jacking pads on our cars anyway.

 

www.raceramps.com - pricey, but worth every penny if you're going to spend time under your car.

 

ScottRiqui is right; that is what I recalled, and it appears to have been discontinued.

 

Go to Harbor Freight and get yourself 2 sets of jack stands for $40.

 

MotorOn is absolutely correct about this issue, on any ramp -- even the metal ones can slide (especially on smooth concrete) as you're moving the car up/down on them ... I borrow a neighbor to spot me, and use the asphalt to give the ramps as much chance to stay gripped to the ground as possible, but even that's no guarantee.

 

 

Another thing to think about for jack stands is the type of surface you will be working on. My driveway is asphalt, so I bought flat bottom jack stands so they don't dig into my driveway.

For extra safety with ramps, you could always put jack stand under neath the car after the car is on the ramps. Just remember to remove them before driving off.

 

Rhino ramps work just fine.

 

except on smooth concrete like my garage

 

I definately love em.. use them with everything but the MINI because its just too low to get on them.

Right after I bought them I got some of that "holey" rubber mat and cut it to go beneath...they wont slide anywhere.

Now i have to put the 3' 2X4 under the rocker panel and jack it up from the center and use 4 jack stands. Also have to remember to drive up on (2) half-inch boards so that the jack itself can fit under! lol

 

Works fine on my smooth concrete floor.......of course I still have the rubber grips on the bottom.

 

mine too, but they still slide unless I wash the pads and concrete first.

 

The problem with ramps is you have to purchase expensive ramps if you want ones that will not slip and are also long enough to have a gentle slope that will fit under the Mini.

A low profile aluminum floor jack is nice but the lower price ones have low weight ratings (usually 2000 to 2500 lbs) that are fine for the Mini but will not work for heavy vechiles such trucks or SUVs, if you plan a dual purpose for the jack.

If going the alum floor jack route, I would stay away from Harbor Frieght and Sears. I have had multiple leaking problems with both brands and various models. I currently have a 3000 lbs Torin Alum jack from Costso ($110), that is OK (does not operate as nice as the Sears jack but as not leaked yet). Since it is from Costco, I can return it if it ever fails. I found out the hard way that Sears only has one year warranty on the Craftsman jacks. I have returned 3 Craftsman Alum jacks due to seal leakage.

I use the Alum floor jack for the Mini, GTI, & Camaro and I have a heavy duty 6000 lbs floor jack from Harbor Freight (about $90 when not on sale) for my heavier vehicles (Suburban & Pick-Up).

 

I had a Torin aluminum jack (the one that comes with nice stands) from Costco. TERRIBLE. Seized up on a lift....deadlifting the rear of a Subaru under the rear diff. Car weighed 3200lbs so max load was 1500lbs (considering we were lifting the rear and the front tires were on the ground with motor up front weighing the most). That jack was rated for 1.5T I think (well within spec).

I've had two Arcan 3.5T steel jacks from Costco and one Arcan 2T aluminum jack. The first steel one lasted five years....changed the fluid and used it another year. I just gave it to my buddy when I bought a new red one Costco has. The aluminum one is nice and light but I've NEVER liked the release on aluminum jacks...too on/off. The steel ones have nice modulated release for smooth and safe descent. I use the AL model for secondary use (compressing suspension, safety under a lift point etc).

 

My Rhino ramps work just fine on my lowered car

 

We use the HF aluminum racing jack for our RX-7's (both lowered). We're on the our 3rd season with it and no leaks (and yes, we do abuse it). I think it's luck of the draw with HF tools.

 

Exactly, I had a HF aluminum racing jack last two days during a rally race while traveling, some of there tools or good then there are the ones that need to be avoided at all costs.