Onto the next problem!

2011 r56 s, on the way to work this morning on the highway, cruising about 75ish gave it a little throttle to pass someone, started accelerating a few mph and then stumbled, check engine light and half engine warning. Checked the code P0302 cyl 2 misfire. Pulled off highway next exit with very little power and misfires. Is the best way to troubleshoot just pull coils/plugs clean up, replace if lookin bad. Move to injectors next?
Sitting here waiting on flatbed now, figured I'd get a game plan together

 

If you cycle the key on and off, you won't be in limp mode anymore and will be able to drive the car to your destination (unless the fault persists). It could be something as simple as a plug-induced misfire which set limp mode.

 

Yup, tried cycling still rough idle, no boost. I swapped coils between the two middle cylinders no change. Wasnt sure which way cyl numbers go 1 on belt side(my guess) or 1 at flywheel side. Made no difference same cyl 2 misfire after swap.
Looking down the spark plug hole one of them looked like it may have been getting blow by the plug.
And the opposite one, the coil looked to have a little rust
Couldn't find correct plug socket and needed to run to work for a bit I'll pull plugs later

Let it sit for a while too, just to see if something was messing up after everything warmed up but still ran like crap.

 

Maybe try swapping the plugs around and see if that makes a difference since the coils didn't. If no change, try swapping your injectors around and see if it follows. Here is a good thread on NAM to help with the injectors and the P code you're receiving. Lots of good information in there. His issue ended up possibly being a bad seal on the injector. Lots of great suggestions in this thread here as well to help with a diagnosis, but hopefully it doesn't result in the same issue the OP had. (Post #9).

 

Thanks, I will give it a shot. Also can you confirm which is cylinder two?
I did notice fuel pressure was very high even with just a little throttle ~1800psi . When it was running good psi would be around 1100 at idle and proportionately gain as rpm did. WOT would peg almost 1800psi.
I'll try and get some good pictures down in the sparkplug hole when I get back home.
IsPLZBR7A-G the correct plug?

 

You're welcome. 1 is on the passenger side - 4 is driver side. Yes, NGK: PLZBR7A-G are what they were fitted from factory. The Beru 12 ZR-6 SPP2-1 will work too.

 

Awesome thanks, that coil showed a little bit of rust on the body of it, and I think where to plug tip connected was a little discolored but swapping coils between 2/3 didn't change anything.
Any idea if fuel pressure being that high is any indication of injector failure? If 25% of flow is blocked. I will see if I can swap two of them this afternoon as well

 

Got the right socket pulled all the plugs. All of the plugs didn't look so good for only having 40,000 miles on them. Cylinders 1 & 2 had a little bit of rust at the base where the porcelain meets the Aluminum(?). I moved all the plugs around and all of the coils around, started it up and had multiple cylinder misfire code p0300
It looks like the previous owner also had some issues as three of the coils were Delphi and the 4th one looks to be the OEM (cyl 1)

 

Not to just throw parts at it, but sounds to me like you might need to just change them out. I'd maybe start there. If that's what you decide to do, the Beru plugs here have a 10% discount if you put COOPER in at check out. Coils here. It is weird that 3 are changed and one wasn't, but maybe the issue he/she had was resolved for them with the replacement of 3 coils and not the 4th? We have a DIY here, look at figure 5 as it shows what a plug with 30,000 miles on it looks like.

 

Fig 5 is exactly what I would expect them to look like...
I'll start with the plugs ....if needed I'll pro b ably just buy 4 new coils

 

Good luck. Be sure to update and let us know what happens.

 

First, major props to this man...ordered last night parts at my door by 11am had I known they were coming so early I would have bailed out of work

Car definitely needed plugs, I couldn't even troubleshoot the coils with the old plugs. Swapped them out started it, unplugged coils while car was running one by one. Found dead cylinder, swapped coil with another started it back up and repeat, isolated it down to a single coil. Gotta run around all day tomorrow for work by atleast two dealerships I'm going to try n find one local tomorrow just to get it back on the road before weekend. My other car sux.

 

It's normal to see rust on the tip of the spark plugs do to that fact that there's moisture between the coils and plugs, I see rust on my coil bodies as well after 50,000 miles, it leaks onto the top of the plug leaving that rust residue. It doesn't mean the coils are bad only that the anti-rust coating is worn away. Your plugs look normal but in need of replacement. Soon I plan on replacing all four coils and plugs, I'd advise against using anti-seize on the threads!

 

Awesome! Glad you got them quickly and you've been able to figure out the culprit. And I'm sure you're looking forward to enjoying your MINI once again, no one likes to drive boring cars.

 

Stopped at dealership ... grit my teeth n paid 95 bux for a coil. O well oem genuine mini coil , neatly packaged, bubble wrapped, etc. I get home bust it out and its just a goddamned Delphi coil
But mini is back on the road and running great, had a set of tires waiting to get put on since the day this started, luckily guy had time to do it.

 

You don't think Mini/BMW actually make 75% of the parts that go into your Mini do you? Bosch make most of the sensors (MAF sensor, O2 sensors, MAP sensor) and Delphi makes the coils, I installed my new MAF sensor today, you can buy it from ECS Tuning for $174 or pay almost $500 for the same part in a decorative genuine Mini cardboard box. They both even have the exact same part numbers as well, that's because they come from the same manufacture.

You paid 50% more for your coil buying it from a dealer, the same coil sold at ECS Tuning for half.

 

Yes I understand the process , I do appreciate the condescending reply though!

And I could not even find a coil locally, ordering Thursday means shipped friday, I may get monday, most likely Tuesday with standard shipping. Unless I overnight night, in which case I may as well just get at the dealer

 

My post wasn't intended to be condescending, it was meant to be informative. Your post implied that you were deeply shocked to found out that the Genuine Mini part was in fact a Delphi coil, indicating that you didn't know that Delphi is the brand of coil originally made for our Mini's.

 

Yes, Delphi is in fact the OEM supplier coil. When MINI first designs and builds a car, it subcontracts out with many different suppliers to supply parts for the car. Car manufacturers typically don't manufacture the parts that go into the cars - they assemble the cars from parts made by outside companies. The factory part that you purchase from the dealer is in fact a repackaged part from an external manufacturer. The term Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) refers to a company that has supplied some parts directly to MINI for the assembly of their cars. A good example is the spark plugs that we went over earlier. NGK being the ones they were fitted from factory and OEM supplier being Beru. Anyways, glad it is back on the road and everything is A-OK now. If you need anything else just let me know.