Suddenly, my rear hatch won't lock unless I click the hatch-lock button on the key a few times. My '07 Mini Cooper has 28,000 miles on it and an otherwise unexceptional history. Anybody had this problem? More importantly, any ideas on its cause and how it's fixed? I'm scheduled to take it to the dealer next week, but it's a long drive and a day off from work and the friendly service guy says they've never heard of this problem, which is worrisome in itself.
Thanks in advance for advice and comment!

 

I had a problem on my '08 where the latch mechanism was messing up and wouldn't catch if I had used the key fob to pop it open. If I opened it manually I didn't have the problem. MINI replaced the mechanism under warranty. I do seem to recall finding a thread here indicating some people were able to fix sticking mechanisms by removing the panel over the mechanism and moving some pin that was getting caught.

 

This is happening to my 09 MCS. I took it in about two weeks ago and they told me there was a faulty seal at the lock mechanism that had let in water which corroded everything. They replaced the lock and the seal and all was good for about a week. Then suddenly, the lock started to reopen itself. So I took it back today. They still have Simone and are trying to figure out why the mechanism keeps opening itself, but when I try to open the door, it won't open

 

We have had the boot handle/switch replaced twice now and going over today for the third repalcement. They keep telling us it is the aerodynamics of the 2009 S Convertible that causes the handle to suck water into it. This is getting VERY old. Warranty covers it now but we still have it replaced about every 3 months since getting it in April 2009. Did not start having the issue until early fall.

The boot will just pop open itself even while just sitting parked. Twice we have opened the driver door and the boot opened. Tuesday I was cleaning the Mini and had the boot open and it cycled about 20 times just laying open already.

We will see what they tell me today!

 

When I got Simone back, I asked them if they were sure they had fixed it this time, when they told me yes, I asked them what they did differently.
The person who I spoke to told me that while the lock had been replaced and the seal fixed the first time, the corrosion was actually more involved than they first realized. They ended up taking the entire door apart, cleaning everything out, replacing the majority of the wiring, lock mechansim, and the handle.
I haven't had a problem since.

 

Hello DrSelina, our service department did pretty much the same thing this time. My service department actually has replaced the entire assembly each time as opposed to trying to dry it all out. They also "sealed" all the connectors in silicone. Drilled a small drain hole or two into the housing to let water out since it obviously builds up over time.

The service manager also opened a problem call with Mini Engineering support and those were the part of the various suggestions on how to prevent future issues.

We all hope it is fixed for good.

 

I just got a Mini yesterday and noticed this problem yesterday. Test drove it for several hours on Friday and didn't have any issues. I rained yesterday while I was doing the paperwork and as I was driving off the lot...bam! It seemed the truck wasn't latched. I didn't think anything about it because I had opened the truck and just thought I hadn't closed it completely. Then I thought maybe I was trying to slam it closed when it needed to be closed gently. That worked all day yesterday but this morning, after I opened the truck, had the same problem. It's still under warranty so I will be calling the dealership tomorrow.

 

Hello Geek Girl,

The last repair that our dealer, Baron Mini Cooper in Merriam KS did pretty much the same as Dr Salena's dealer for the same issue. Replaced the whole boot handle/switch, dried out the enterior. Then sealed and replaced the unit. Also the bottom of the boot door, right where the cable enters the door, just under that is a rubber grommet with a small drain slit in it. Be sure they open that slit a little more as well. That helps keep water from accumulating in the boot door too.

It is a know problem and the factory techs have documented the fix so you should not have any issues after this repair.

Good luck!

 

Recently had the EXACT same problem: rear hatch would open/unlatch just fine but would not close/relatch unless I cycled the latch mechanism. Thought it was an alignment problem at first; realigned latch mechanism and it worked for a day but problem reappeared. Finally decided to replace latch assembly and problem solved. (Replacement part cost $50) Disassembled "broken" latch and found that a small plastic finger tab had broken off internal to the mechanism. See pictures....

https://www.dropbox.com/s/btaxdavk02...ssembly%20.JPG

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3urrtsfoo2...oken%20Tab.JPG

 

All of the locks work from both inside the car switch and using the fob. The problem is that I can hear the tailgate lock but if I push the button on the handle it opens. Any thoughts?