Running onto the last few miles of the once-replaced (junk) OEM rear discs and pads, I need to begin prepping for a change to Powerslot + GreenStuff pads, like I put on the fronts some time ago.

Any dealers (TireRack maybe? I'm already a customer of yours) offer up a rental on that Special Tool needed for the rears?

Many rears ago I spent a long evening fashioning a similar tool while at my SAAB's dealer, as they hadn't RECEIVED their allocated tool for the 1975 99, which was the first to require same for pad replacement. Cheapest I've seen is about $140 which is about the cost of pads & rotor for one wheel.

I'm well Northwest of Chicago, commute daily to near United Center, if anyone's listening....

 

Your local Pep Boys should have one for a FREE loan. Usually you have to give your credit card and they'll charge you for the price of the tool if you don't return it.

You can also purchase a generic one (for use on Volkswagens, etc.) for about $50 or so.

 

Check this out:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732

A fellow NAM member reported great results!

 

The PepBoys option never occurred to me, but you're right! I've heard they offer that service.

Knowing the same tool works for VW's is a help.

The HarborFreight option - at US $40 - likely will be the way to go, only 'cause I'm SURE I'll be remounting the OEM rotors at all 4 corners when I end up acquiring my NEXT Cooper S!

Thanks to you both.

 

What Tool?

The only tool you need for the rears is a good sized "C" clamp from your local hardware store for about $5.

I am assuming you are looking to push the piston back in, correct?

 

<<The only tool you need for the rears is a good sized "C" clamp from your local hardware store for about $5.

I am assuming you are looking to push the piston back in, correct?>>

Yes, but you have to turn the piston while compressing it....you shouldn't just push it in.

 

A "C" clamp will turn the piston. That's what I use, but I had to pay $6 for mine

 

Just use a pair of thin nosed pliers and carefully push and turn the piston with an 'arm' of the plier in each hole. Done carefully, youy shouldn't cause any problems either

Henry

 

I have about 40 assorted C-clamps collected over the years. Some have been "pressed" into service ( ) for pushing pistons back before.

I suppose I could cobble up one with teeth, to fit the holes (or slots or whatever) must be engaged on my MINI's rear pistons to effectively twist them while pushing them back into place - if the twist of the clamps is the same as that required to retract the pistons; right-hand? - but I've learned over the years (how many C-clamps does it take? Only one, but I don't have that size... yet) that having a proper tool for a job makes the first time far easier and likely cheaper than just making do.

Goin' over to HarborFreight.com next....

 

I always have used C clamps done a lot of breaks in the last 28 years of driving. Damn I am old

 

As others have said, the C clamps works great on Mini rears. They turn the piston while pressing it in.

 

needle nose pliers worked great for me on the rear piston when I changed my pads

 

"c" clamp won't work the piston has to be rotated,i used a pair of needle nose pliars with a rag for padding then just push & turn.

 

Have you tried a C clamp? I DO know that it works perfectly as it DOES rotate the piston as it pushes it in. Much easier then trying to use any type of pliars as I have tried that in the past also.

Have a look here. http://www.webbmotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5

 

Boy, what I thought would be an hour job to replace my stock rear pads, and also install the caliper stiffening kit, turned into a few hours, and it now appears that I'll be unable to commute to work tomorrow in my MCS... I'm unable to compress my pistons I've tried it with small blocks of wood (they split), and without...

I've got several C-clamps and two of the bigger ones are not turning the piston. I might go and try the needle nose plier to see if that might work. Damn near dark already...

 

Tony,

Did you get her fixed ?

 

I'm going during my lunch break today to Harbor Freight, which is about 15 minutes North of my employer (I have my wife's car, again). I will get their product mentioned a few posts above...

A C-clamp, while I'm sure it has worked for some, several have done squat for me. C-clamps by design are not supposed to spin the object they are compressing. The end that turns is on a swivel, so it won't turn, which makes sense. I thought about welding the swivel, and I tried jaming it first last night with some copper wire so it would turn as I cranked it down. It seemed to work a little better, but it was not as ideal as I would have hoped...

I'll get this item and then get busy tonight. I've sanded-down the rotors a bit, and I've already made some progress on the caliper stiffening kit prep, so the pad install should go fast...

 

Just got back from HF, and I wish I could have spent more time there...

Some very good news... This Caliper Tool Set is 50% off now . I was out the door for 21 and change. Considering that it is supposed to work for many makes, that a pretty good deal...

 

Make sure you disconnect the emergency brake cable before you start compressing or you wont get anywhere even with the HB caliper tool! I learned the hard way.

 

Tony,
Your not using that piece of wood in between the clamp and the piston are you!? The C clamp should just be used against the piston and the rotation will spin it.
The brake cable does NOT need to be disconected either.

 

Well both the Bently manual and my experience indicate that in order to properly compress the piston on the rear calipers, the emergency brake cable needs to be disconnected from the unit. Glad to hear that you were able to work it otherwise.

 

Nothing like having the proper tool! Within minutes, I was able to compress both pistons, effortlessly And if it helps matters any, I didn't disco any cables or lines whatsoever...

onasled, I tried several C-clamps, and a few times with wood, per a How-To, but mostly without anything, per Randy's How-To. Again, if one's C-clamp spins it, that's great for this application, but that C-clamp is not working as it should though. A C-clamp is not supposed to spin what it's clamping-down on, thus the swivel.

For 20 bucks, and the fact that it can work on multiple makes, I feel satsified! New pads are on, as well the caliper stiffening kit :smile: . I can now drive down to Laguna Seca to watch Tony Nuzzo and team!!! Oh, and he wants me to get him one of these caliper/piston tools .

 

Excellent! I love the Harbor Freight caliper tool. Its interesting about the emergency brake cable. I wonder what the difference between the cars is?

 

Tony--did one of the attachments on the HF tool actually fit right into the holes in the piston? I'm interested in the tool (especially for 20 bucks!) but I've heard that none of the attachments fit exactly right.


Thanks--
Gary

 

Gary, there are like 6 or so adapters for various piston sizes and configurations. The base plate that is part of the tool, with two ****, secures very nicely into our piston surface! None of the "attachments" are needed for us. I'm going back there a bit later to get a few more items that caught my eye

SumWon, I need to check my Bentley manual... I'm not sure why disco'ing the ebrake is recommended. I do know that it's a function of the ebrake to push the piston outward with pad wear though...