R50/53 Upcoming Oil Change
#1
#2
#3
read the owner's manual
MINI calls for full synthetic ... as long as you stick with a good full s' and the proper weight range you'll be fine.
Some folks have big brand loyalty. Some insist on only oil they get from the dealer. In the early days the aftermarket filters often had problems so folks recommend OE filters even today (I have not seen this problem in at least 5 years, myself)
I too buy MOBIL ONE in the 5 quart jug from Wally World and never had a problem ... I do changes for other folks and use whatever they bring .... I've used "MINI" and Castor the most with no problems seen there either.
IF this is your first time doing a change on a GEN1 I recommend you do some searching here for the DIY and other hints. There are a couple of GOTCHA's to be aware of including
1. The OE drain plug has a tendency to get stuck due to a poor design using a built on plastic seal. The OE plug is SUPPOSED to be used ONCE but seldom is replaced.
2. The recommended metric socket size is metric and WRONG. If the bung sticks AND you use the recommended metric socket, the chances of stripping the head increase. Try a 1/2 inch .... it fits better.
3. STRONGLY recommend you replace the bung with a FUMOTO valve and never worry about this in the future . . .
4. The filter can can be a bit*h to get back on .... try some practice runs without a filter in the can.
5. The filter holder can be a bit*h to get off ..... there isn't a lot of clearance for the BIG socket and the wrench ....
if you can't find the DIY, pm me with an e-mail address and I'll send as a PDF
MINI calls for full synthetic ... as long as you stick with a good full s' and the proper weight range you'll be fine.
Some folks have big brand loyalty. Some insist on only oil they get from the dealer. In the early days the aftermarket filters often had problems so folks recommend OE filters even today (I have not seen this problem in at least 5 years, myself)
I too buy MOBIL ONE in the 5 quart jug from Wally World and never had a problem ... I do changes for other folks and use whatever they bring .... I've used "MINI" and Castor the most with no problems seen there either.
IF this is your first time doing a change on a GEN1 I recommend you do some searching here for the DIY and other hints. There are a couple of GOTCHA's to be aware of including
1. The OE drain plug has a tendency to get stuck due to a poor design using a built on plastic seal. The OE plug is SUPPOSED to be used ONCE but seldom is replaced.
2. The recommended metric socket size is metric and WRONG. If the bung sticks AND you use the recommended metric socket, the chances of stripping the head increase. Try a 1/2 inch .... it fits better.
3. STRONGLY recommend you replace the bung with a FUMOTO valve and never worry about this in the future . . .
4. The filter can can be a bit*h to get back on .... try some practice runs without a filter in the can.
5. The filter holder can be a bit*h to get off ..... there isn't a lot of clearance for the BIG socket and the wrench ....
if you can't find the DIY, pm me with an e-mail address and I'll send as a PDF
#4
ok here is from my documented experience with actual lab results. I tested 2 cars albeit none were MINI's, one a trans am 5.7L far from stock and a 5.3L chevy PU . Both ran mobil 1 after break in. I saw a white paper and heard rumors mobil 1 changed formulas aka went cheap and I decided to switch oils to Q full synth , wear in BOTH vehicles dropped enough that it was tangible, to see if it was a fluke put mobil 1 back in cars and damn if the wear did not increase back to were it was.
So I am not ever using mobil 1 again except maybe my lawn mower.
Since you don't have a turbo you don't need to worry as much but it is a highly stressed engine so I would use full synthetic , if your going 8K between changes as I do you want a LONG LIFE oil.
I have been using MINI oil because my cars are under warranty and they can't ever blame me on that for any issues and my dealership does changes for $69.95 so I let them do it and there fore is documented as well.
There is a castrol edge EUROPEAN FORMULA long life 0-40W at walmart that I would use if you want to save money, like $27 for 5 qts, and it's BMW long life full synthetic rated oil.
Amsoil is great oil, they pretty much invented the stuff but it's pricey, that is what I use in my English (triumph) street triple R motorcycle, very high perf 3 cylinder that turns 14K rpm, never had any wear issues with that.
So I am not ever using mobil 1 again except maybe my lawn mower.
Since you don't have a turbo you don't need to worry as much but it is a highly stressed engine so I would use full synthetic , if your going 8K between changes as I do you want a LONG LIFE oil.
I have been using MINI oil because my cars are under warranty and they can't ever blame me on that for any issues and my dealership does changes for $69.95 so I let them do it and there fore is documented as well.
There is a castrol edge EUROPEAN FORMULA long life 0-40W at walmart that I would use if you want to save money, like $27 for 5 qts, and it's BMW long life full synthetic rated oil.
Amsoil is great oil, they pretty much invented the stuff but it's pricey, that is what I use in my English (triumph) street triple R motorcycle, very high perf 3 cylinder that turns 14K rpm, never had any wear issues with that.
#5
Your MINI REQUIRES syenthic oil...
Out if WARRENTY, so use what you want...
Mobil1 euro 0w-40 is good stuff, and meets the original factory requirements...
It is very different stuff from the regular mobil1 which is technically now a highly upgraded conventional oil...like most oils, called a group 4...
I have also used various castrol syenthic oil...
All were fine, cheap at Wally world, at about $20-25 for 5 liters, after bring on sale, often with a rebate...
Read oil change threads...
Get a OEM/Mann/ mahle filter...oil the gasket, and have fun!!
Yes..oil changes on a MINI are different...
Mini says 15,000 miles with an "approved" oil...
I usually went 7500 or 6 months...
Out if WARRENTY, so use what you want...
Mobil1 euro 0w-40 is good stuff, and meets the original factory requirements...
It is very different stuff from the regular mobil1 which is technically now a highly upgraded conventional oil...like most oils, called a group 4...
I have also used various castrol syenthic oil...
All were fine, cheap at Wally world, at about $20-25 for 5 liters, after bring on sale, often with a rebate...
Read oil change threads...
Get a OEM/Mann/ mahle filter...oil the gasket, and have fun!!
Yes..oil changes on a MINI are different...
Mini says 15,000 miles with an "approved" oil...
I usually went 7500 or 6 months...
#7
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#8
#9
Get some inexpensive ramps from harbor freight, or somethin (a must when working on a MINI).
- pull the car up on the ramps
- put a drain pan under the car and open the fumoto valve
- loosen the oil filter cap enough to break the seal, but dont remove it
- go have beer/watch the last qtr of the game (this gives the filter time to drain)
- replace oil filter with new MANN and reinstall oil filter cap
- close the fumoto and put in new syn oil
- motor
#10
Your MINI REQUIRES syenthic oil...
Mobil1 euro 0w-40 is good stuff, and meets the original factory requirements...
It is very different stuff from the regular mobil1 which is technically now a highly upgraded conventional oil...like most oils, called a group 4...
Mini says 15,000 miles with an "approved" oil...
I usually went 7500 or 6 months...
Mobil1 euro 0w-40 is good stuff, and meets the original factory requirements...
It is very different stuff from the regular mobil1 which is technically now a highly upgraded conventional oil...like most oils, called a group 4...
Mini says 15,000 miles with an "approved" oil...
I usually went 7500 or 6 months...
15K ? My wife's 2012 says 16K , that is just ludicrous. No oil last that long that I ever tested, at 8k blackstone labs says it's about out of it's additives. And even then the amout of contaminants is high, unless we had some super efficient particulate filters like diesels I would not try more than 8K , especially with the tiny oil filter MINI has. Whomever said 16K was ok should be tarred and feathered.
#12
Oh. And to the OP. MOBILE1 euro 0w-40 here and OEM oil filter. Oil from Walmart as stated earlier. Look for rebate coupon.
on the new cars the interval is no longer 15k it's 10, actually mine read 9k after only 100 miles since new. So I'll be doing the every 4500 ish interval in between the maint warranty changes.
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#14
Thanks for all the info guys!
Bj could you, or someone, link me to the Fumoto valve you referenced? I understand I shouldn't re-use the stock plug.
Also, I run Royal Purple in my modded XB, and in cars before that. I just wanted to make sure the RP for the Mini will be good.
Bj could you, or someone, link me to the Fumoto valve you referenced? I understand I shouldn't re-use the stock plug.
Also, I run Royal Purple in my modded XB, and in cars before that. I just wanted to make sure the RP for the Mini will be good.
#16
I use Valvoline SynPower 5W30 in the 06 and will in the 05. Great stuff and engine always verified with oil analysis.
Also oil doesn't go bad on time alone. There are other factors, but I had the oil analyzed in the 06 after 2.5 years and 2600 miles and it was still in good enough condition to run another 10K.
Also oil doesn't go bad on time alone. There are other factors, but I had the oil analyzed in the 06 after 2.5 years and 2600 miles and it was still in good enough condition to run another 10K.
#19
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