I've had my R53 for about 2 years now and the electronic/remote entry portion of the key has never functioned, in fact the two halves have been taped together for most of that time. I'm ok with using the driver's door to unlock and not having any other functions besides starting the car. My question is this -

Does anyone know if I can "modify" the key fob and not mess up something communicating with the ignition?

What I'd like to do it essentially remove the large plastic fob and the guts, and fashion my own smaller fob, with just the functioning key-stick piece. If I have no push-button functions on the fob, is there still any kind of magnetic connection that is happening within the key and ignition that I could mess up?

Thanks in advance!

 

There is a EWS chip for the antitheft system...
As long as that chip remains, you are fine...it is about the size of s grain of rice...located inside the shell...place it is a similar location in your new key...
If the EWS chip in s damaged or missing, the car will not start.

 

This thread has some photos of the immobilizer chip: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...for-cheap.html
The key in those photos is the newer 3 button style of 2005+. If you have the older 2 button style key, the circuit board will look different but the immobilizer chip should look the same.

 

Awesome, Thanks Zippy and rkw.

That thread looks like just what I need. I'll take the tape off of my key and see what I can do... Then run some start-up tests before I get to far with fabrication.

 

The immobilizer chip on the two button keys is separate from the circuit board- it's a small, black coffin shaped (!) thing in one of the halves. On the three button keys it is mounted to the circuit board.

Here's a site put together by another NAM member which has many details about these keys:

https://sites.google.com/site/minian...verremotekeys/

Grab a cup of tea and sit down as there is a lot of reading there, but it's all good information.

Before you go tearing into things I do key repair and would love to take a look at your key ad see if it's repairable. Many are and will function again with a new battery or it may just need to be re-paired with the car. The two button keys require a trip to the dealer for that and the three button ones you can do yourself (supposedly- I have not done one).

What's inside of your key is just a flat blade (as far as the blade part goes) so without the shell you will have very little leverage to open the door and presumably to turn the ignition. Plus, the door locks on the first generation models are not meant to be used everyday (IMHO) as they are made of a pretty cheap pot metal (I know from experience). When the thing that holds the shaft on the back breaks I hope it's while you are trying to lock and not unlock, because otherwise you won't be able to get into your car. The replacement locks (in the door) are made out of better material and will last longer.

Let me know (via PM) if you want me to look at your key. I have a thread about key refurbishment in the modifications section. It's all about the two button keys but I have just started working on three button keys and the newer hockey puck keys as well.

Val

 

Hi Val, thanks for the thorough reply. I have the 3 button key and I can clearly see the immobilizer chip on the board. It's my only key so I have no simple way of getting it to you to have a look.

being that it's my only key I also don't want to perform surgery and completely ruin it.

The key has never worked remotely for me and I have been using the driver door lock for entry for 2 years now without issue. My goal as stated in the OP is to REPLACE the remote mechanism area with a "Dumb Handle" as on many older cars, I would take the blade and immobilizer chip off the current setup and fashion a new handle out of a strong material like carbon fiber or G10 fiberglass to fit the chip and blade. That is my idea anyway.

I'm not trying to regain remote functionality or just use the blade, with little leverage, to start the car.. Thoughts on this? Thanks again.

 

Here's an image from realoem.com, a very good site for finding MINI part numbers. Your remote key is #6, what I like to call the "general" key (without a remote) is #7 and the valet key is #3.

I believe MINIs came with these three keys as a set when new. To get new MINI keys you do have to go to the dealer. I have never seen #7 or #3 in the wild (I don't generally ask to see other MINI owners keys!) but if they are on realoem.com they must exist. #7 is much cheaper than #6 (probably under $100) and has the same functionality, less the remote. In other words it will open the door and start the car, so it must have some type of immobilizer chip in it. #3 apparently has the same functionality as well but I believe the blade is plastic so it is not appropriate for continued use.

Getting a key from the dealer requires your license and title/registration; they put the order in and it comes in about a week, blade cut and the immobilizer should be recognized by your car as they code them by VIN. If #3 has a metal blade you could just get that and be good to go. Or, you could then open up #7, locate and pull out the immobilizer chip and blade (the blades on these are molded into the key, so you will destroy the shell when removing it) and then craft your smaller key.

I have some blank blades from the clamshell style keys (#1 and #2) that I did not use; I could send you a couple and you could have them cut from your #7 if you get it so you don't completely destroy the case. Cutting here is about $35. I've never had a blade out from a flat key but they should be functionally the same.

If you craft a key or just decide to use a new, non remote key as is I'd still like to take a look at your existing key. It could either be a dead battery (n the key) or your receiver in your car could be dead. Am I trolling for work? A bit, but I'm still thinking about what happens when that door lock breaks and you can't get in. Having a working remote could be very handy in that situation.

Whatever you decide, post some pictures if you craft a key!

Val

 

#3 is the plastic emergency "wallet" key...has a plastic blade...only good for a few uses, but does have a EWS chip molded into it...
Every car got one when it was sold new...
My 2005 got 2 remote keys, and one plastic "wallet" key...
To the op...
If you only have one key, IMO, spend the $75 or so and get a 2nd nonremote key (aka basic key)...
If the current key stops working...the EWS chips CAN DIE, OR YOU LOOSE your only key...you will have a bit of an emergency by on your hands, and maybe a tow bill if you are parked in a place you cannot leave your car for 3-4 weekdays or longer....

 

Amazon sells a blank key which I just used the housing portion to repair mine as the buttons had broken out. My blade is a bit narrower and wiggles some but the buttons can actually be pressed. This is not a BMW part....

 

You said that you don't care if the remote doesn't work, but you might just try the programming steps to see if it fixes it. Takes just a couple of minutes.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post1462932

 

I tried this yesterday about a dozen times, in about 6 different iterations of the pattern and timing.. Something is dead on one end or the other...

THIS is what I think I will do, in addition to Val's suggestions and possibly sending him my existing key in the meantime...

I'm going to look into the non-remote key next week and possibly make that into the modded key I'd like to have for EDC, and try to fix the exisitng key that could have remote capabilities.

I will definitely post pics if a modded key if I go that route, and I will DM you if I want to send my key up to you.

Thanks everybody for the input! Cheers and have fun motoring!!

 

I have confirmed the existence of #7 in the wild. Above is a picture of a friend's key. This is what she was using to drive her car while I fixed her flat key. Sorry for the poor quality of the picture; I took it as she was waiting for me to check the operation of the remote key I fixed for her.

I forgot to take pictures of the repaired remote key but after replacing the rechargeable battery (soldering skills required), getting the new blade cut at a locksmith and putting it all together, I am happy to report that it works perfectly! The cut opens the door and turns the lock with no problem and the remote worked properly right away- no "re-pairing" necessary, even though the battery was disconnected for about 5 minutes maximum.

Total bill to repair her flat key was about $95 due to the blade cutting charge and more expensive battery.

Val

 

Tried something yesterday which may help the OP-

There's two keys to each of our cars ('02 and '03 R50's). Held mine next the ignition so as to make the "ding" noise. Tried starting the car with the wife's key- so the car was "seeing" both immobilizer chips- and it would not start.

This would mean that the OP needs to put the immobilizer chip inside whatever small key they build, as attaching it to the steering column (such as gluing it in place) would preclude the use of any other key, as the system would "see" two immobilizer chips as in my test.

I do have extra blades if the OP would like to get one cut and make their key from that starting point. The blades in the flat keys are not made to be removed- they seem to be molded in place. Pulling one out would destroy the key.

I'd be happy to send you a couple if you want to have one cut and go from there.

Bruce