Electrical Homelink toggle hack options?
#1
Homelink toggle hack options?
Hello everyone,
I'm new to the board...just got an F55 five door for my wife. Love the car. It replaced a 2008 Infiniti G35 (the switch from 306 hp to 131 is interesting, as is the change from 23mpg to 37+). Both cars are fun to drive. But I've always preferred a nimble hatch to a powerful sedan (and still miss my 2001 GTI VR6.)
Anyway, I'm trying to figure out my options for a wired garage door opener.
I understand that retrofitting a Homelink rearview mirror is an option, but I want to explore other possibilities as well.
On my F55 there are two blanks in the toggle switch panel (on either end, one is the park distance I think, next to the auto-stop toggle, and the other blank is on the passenger side and I can't tell what it would do if I had the toggle, which I do not).
Does anyone know if I will be able to a) cut/pop out the blank in the plastic and install the toggles, b) modify the connector to those toggles to run to a garage door opener instead of whichever option they were meant to run?
I'm open to the option of either wiring in the battery-powered opener and hiding it behind the dash or of wiring the buttons from a hardwired eBay Homelink unit to work with the toggles if it can be done.
My other thought was to find a headlight/driving light switch that has the driving light button (mine has a pair of dummy/blanks) and use those instead.
But the only headlight switches I've found available have either just one driving light switch or two but also the strange headlight aiming dial that seems to be a European option.
So lots of questions. Basically, can I hack the toggles to run my choice of garage door opener switch, can I hack the two blanks next to the headlight to do the same? What other options should I consider?
I recognize that this is not much of a pressing problem (oh no, I have to carry around the garage door opener in my new car!) but the challenge is the point.
-Jonathan
I'm new to the board...just got an F55 five door for my wife. Love the car. It replaced a 2008 Infiniti G35 (the switch from 306 hp to 131 is interesting, as is the change from 23mpg to 37+). Both cars are fun to drive. But I've always preferred a nimble hatch to a powerful sedan (and still miss my 2001 GTI VR6.)
Anyway, I'm trying to figure out my options for a wired garage door opener.
I understand that retrofitting a Homelink rearview mirror is an option, but I want to explore other possibilities as well.
On my F55 there are two blanks in the toggle switch panel (on either end, one is the park distance I think, next to the auto-stop toggle, and the other blank is on the passenger side and I can't tell what it would do if I had the toggle, which I do not).
Does anyone know if I will be able to a) cut/pop out the blank in the plastic and install the toggles, b) modify the connector to those toggles to run to a garage door opener instead of whichever option they were meant to run?
I'm open to the option of either wiring in the battery-powered opener and hiding it behind the dash or of wiring the buttons from a hardwired eBay Homelink unit to work with the toggles if it can be done.
My other thought was to find a headlight/driving light switch that has the driving light button (mine has a pair of dummy/blanks) and use those instead.
But the only headlight switches I've found available have either just one driving light switch or two but also the strange headlight aiming dial that seems to be a European option.
So lots of questions. Basically, can I hack the toggles to run my choice of garage door opener switch, can I hack the two blanks next to the headlight to do the same? What other options should I consider?
I recognize that this is not much of a pressing problem (oh no, I have to carry around the garage door opener in my new car!) but the challenge is the point.
-Jonathan
#2
Welcome to Forum and congrats on the F55. Last month I also bought an F55 and wanted the homeland function. So I bit the bullet and spent the money for the OEM auto dimming homeland mirror. I also really wanted the dimming feature so it was worth it to me. I had it professionally installed so i am no help there.
I am not certain if you can wire the opener to a blank switch in the toggle bay or headlight area. But I wanted to let you know that if you decide to use the headlight switch option, let me know, as I have the OEM headlight switch with the functioning front fog light switch. As pictured in your 2nd photo. I have no need for it, so it was headed to Ebay, but if you want it for a cheap price let me know.
Good Luck with your project. I have been tinkering with mine since the day I brought it home!!
I am not certain if you can wire the opener to a blank switch in the toggle bay or headlight area. But I wanted to let you know that if you decide to use the headlight switch option, let me know, as I have the OEM headlight switch with the functioning front fog light switch. As pictured in your 2nd photo. I have no need for it, so it was headed to Ebay, but if you want it for a cheap price let me know.
Good Luck with your project. I have been tinkering with mine since the day I brought it home!!
#3
If you want to install your own switch into the blank space, you'll have drill out that portion of the circuit board to make space for your switch. There's a chance you might be able to do it safely if the circuit board traces are unused in that area. You need to take the switch unit apart to investigate.
#4
Like RKW said above it's possible but would take some effort. I wanted the homelink mirror in my 2013 but the price is well over $500 now. I decided to go with the $20 eBay transmitter detailed in the post linked below. I can't be happier.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t-upgrade.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t-upgrade.html
#5
I also like the idea of the eBay transmitter but can't figure out where to locate it in the 2016 Mini. 2nd generation Minis have that great spot in the headliner.
As for the toggles, I'm thinking there might be a way to tap into their output in the plastic connector where the wires from the switch join the car's wiring harness. Either add pins if the locations in the connectors are vacant or something along those lines.
On the subject of mirrors, what earlier year Minis would have mirrors that mount to the 2016 mirror mount? Does anybody have a part number for a Homelink mirror from a 1st or 2nd gen that would work?
As for the toggles, I'm thinking there might be a way to tap into their output in the plastic connector where the wires from the switch join the car's wiring harness. Either add pins if the locations in the connectors are vacant or something along those lines.
On the subject of mirrors, what earlier year Minis would have mirrors that mount to the 2016 mirror mount? Does anybody have a part number for a Homelink mirror from a 1st or 2nd gen that would work?
Last edited by moremonkey; 03-11-2016 at 06:17 AM.
#6
I say if you have the ability to try it. Do it, great hack. The overhead in the Gen 3 MINI it would have to be in the center section , if there are no switch options. or maybe in the headliner itself.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=61_3300
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_9558
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_9674
Here is the Homelink, autodim, compass mirror for the f56: 51169345388
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/51169345388/
The mirror from the R56 and R53 will not fit, unless you are going to gut out the home link ? Just using the homelink on the bottom
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=61_3300
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_9558
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_9674
Here is the Homelink, autodim, compass mirror for the f56: 51169345388
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/51169345388/
The mirror from the R56 and R53 will not fit, unless you are going to gut out the home link ? Just using the homelink on the bottom
__________________
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#7
I know this is how steering wheel button controls work on the MINI. There isn't a separate line in the harness for each button function. When you press a button, it causes a message to be sent on the data bus.
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#8
RKW, that is useful information. (Although it doesn't get me any closer to the goal.)
I may take apart the headlight switch to see if it is hackable, but now I am starting to doubt it.
On to the mirror:it is starting to look like my best option will be to either install a Homelink mirror or put the guts from an eBay Homelink unit into the car somewhere. I'm wondering if I can take one of them apart and fit it into the mirror.
I may take apart the headlight switch to see if it is hackable, but now I am starting to doubt it.
On to the mirror:it is starting to look like my best option will be to either install a Homelink mirror or put the guts from an eBay Homelink unit into the car somewhere. I'm wondering if I can take one of them apart and fit it into the mirror.
#9
If you don't use your 12v lighter then you could do this http://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-ele...pener-how.html
#10
Minnie, I like that idea a lot. Also found this (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ur-MK6-stealth) and think it could work with the flat, black button blank I have in the dash in the panel with the heated seat buttons.
#11
#12
Homelink garage door opener: Installation Instructions
This weekend I finally assembled the Homelink garage door opener I have been plotting for the Mini.
First I got a $20 Homelink unit from eBay.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
Then I got some $6 momentary LED switches from Amazon.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ttach/jpeg.gif
Finally I picked up a $6 mini add-a-fuse tap from O’Reilly’s.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
After a little poking around, it looked like the best/easiest spot for the new garage door opener buttons would be in the unused dummy buttons that higher-spec models use for front and rear fog lights.
I pulled the panel holding the headlight switch off. It removes easily – there are five metal clips built into it. Pull towards the back seat and the thing ought to come right off.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
Remove the pigtail connecting the headlight switch to the car.
To protect from scratches, I put the removed dash panel face-down on a towel when I put it on my workbench.
Removing the back of the headlight switch is straightforward: there are six plastic tabs that need to be freed. I used a dental pick to do the job. A thin bladed screwdriver would also work. Take your time, don’t force the clips because you don’t want to break them. The cover comes off easily once a critical mass of clips is released.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
Next I used a little metal bit on my Dremel to carefully cut out the switch blanks. Take your time.This part is probably why projects like this one are called hacks.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
Once the holes were the right size I soldered the wires from the new switches to the connections for the little switches inside the Homelink unit. Make sure you run the wires through the holes you just cut in the panel before you solder.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
Because the switches I bought were a little too long for the job, I had to fold the metal tabs flat. It’s not ideal, but it shouldn’t impact function as long as nothing shorts out. I also removed some material from the back of the headlight switch cover in an effort to make a little more room in there.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
To prevent the connections on the back of the new switches from shorting on the circuit board that lives inside the headlight switch, I taped over the board.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
The new switches were secured in the dash panel with plenty of hot glue.
I also used hot glue to provide some strain relief for the wires inside the Homelink unit.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
In the picture I show the whole contraption secured to the inside of the panel with zip ties and double sided tape. That worked great until I tried to put the panel back on and realized it was all in the way. So I moved everything inside the dash.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
I wired the ground to the screw holding the lower left dashboard trim to the body. It’s a spot right in front of the driver’s left knee. My wire attaches inside the dash and is not visible.
Power comes from an add-a-fuse that I used to tap into the fuse panel. These things are great because you can get power without cutting or splicing into the car’s harness.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
Because of the profile of the add-a-fuse, I was limited to which fuses I could fit it into. I am still trying to find one that is off when the car is off. But the Mini is so eager to wake up and turn on lights and bells that I haven’t found the ideal fuse yet.
The power issue matters to me because I wired the new switches to have their LED rings always on. The switches can be wired to illuminate when pushed, but it’s dark down there by the headlight switch and I figured the illuminated switches look good and are easy to find. Also, having them light when pushed seemed silly because your finger covers the light anyway.
The whole project worked out very well, my wife is pleased, and the new switches look pretty factoryish. The only issue I had was that on Saturday morning I figured it was a 45 minute job. But it took well past lunch because I was taking my time and taking photographs.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
-Jonathan
First I got a $20 Homelink unit from eBay.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
Then I got some $6 momentary LED switches from Amazon.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ttach/jpeg.gif
Finally I picked up a $6 mini add-a-fuse tap from O’Reilly’s.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
After a little poking around, it looked like the best/easiest spot for the new garage door opener buttons would be in the unused dummy buttons that higher-spec models use for front and rear fog lights.
I pulled the panel holding the headlight switch off. It removes easily – there are five metal clips built into it. Pull towards the back seat and the thing ought to come right off.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
Remove the pigtail connecting the headlight switch to the car.
To protect from scratches, I put the removed dash panel face-down on a towel when I put it on my workbench.
Removing the back of the headlight switch is straightforward: there are six plastic tabs that need to be freed. I used a dental pick to do the job. A thin bladed screwdriver would also work. Take your time, don’t force the clips because you don’t want to break them. The cover comes off easily once a critical mass of clips is released.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
Next I used a little metal bit on my Dremel to carefully cut out the switch blanks. Take your time.This part is probably why projects like this one are called hacks.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
Once the holes were the right size I soldered the wires from the new switches to the connections for the little switches inside the Homelink unit. Make sure you run the wires through the holes you just cut in the panel before you solder.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
Because the switches I bought were a little too long for the job, I had to fold the metal tabs flat. It’s not ideal, but it shouldn’t impact function as long as nothing shorts out. I also removed some material from the back of the headlight switch cover in an effort to make a little more room in there.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
To prevent the connections on the back of the new switches from shorting on the circuit board that lives inside the headlight switch, I taped over the board.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
The new switches were secured in the dash panel with plenty of hot glue.
I also used hot glue to provide some strain relief for the wires inside the Homelink unit.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
In the picture I show the whole contraption secured to the inside of the panel with zip ties and double sided tape. That worked great until I tried to put the panel back on and realized it was all in the way. So I moved everything inside the dash.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
I wired the ground to the screw holding the lower left dashboard trim to the body. It’s a spot right in front of the driver’s left knee. My wire attaches inside the dash and is not visible.
Power comes from an add-a-fuse that I used to tap into the fuse panel. These things are great because you can get power without cutting or splicing into the car’s harness.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
Because of the profile of the add-a-fuse, I was limited to which fuses I could fit it into. I am still trying to find one that is off when the car is off. But the Mini is so eager to wake up and turn on lights and bells that I haven’t found the ideal fuse yet.
The power issue matters to me because I wired the new switches to have their LED rings always on. The switches can be wired to illuminate when pushed, but it’s dark down there by the headlight switch and I figured the illuminated switches look good and are easy to find. Also, having them light when pushed seemed silly because your finger covers the light anyway.
The whole project worked out very well, my wife is pleased, and the new switches look pretty factoryish. The only issue I had was that on Saturday morning I figured it was a 45 minute job. But it took well past lunch because I was taking my time and taking photographs.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...attach/jpg.gif
-Jonathan
#13
Nice job. So does the F56 have the 2 garage door openers in the rear view mirror as an option like the R56 did? My Coupe does not (because of the different windscreen and roof design, but the other models did, I had it on my 2007 MCS and it worked great. Maybe the OP just didn't get it on his car.
#14
#15
Nice work, moremonkey!
#16
Yea, it should have never been killed.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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