Yeah, considering that the new JBE's board pins appear to be untouched and it's having a similar but worse problem tells me that it's likely not the cause of the problem here. I'm no expert on circuits, but I see no issues with your custom bypass you posted not long ago. It seems to be a good way of passing the right voltage to the socket, though I have no idea what that means for my OBDII issue

 

No issues here^. Can you do one more test with relay removed from new JBE?

--> Measure resistance/continuity between terminal 87 (fuel pump) relay socket and pin 9 of X11010 connector

 

I agree. It was just a thought.

 

I got an open loop reading

 

Sorry, did you use male pin 9 on the JBE with the X11010 connector removed?

 

Yes

 

Perfect, this means that the board trace running from terminal 87 relay socket to male pin 9 is broken, explaining 0V reading at pin 9 of the new JBE.

Can you do the same test on the original JBE? This test does NOT require the JBE to be installed in the car.

 

The old board is reading 15 ohms

 

Interesting. Fits with your detection of voltage at pin 9 of the old board, but I need to calculate whether 15 Ohms of resistance would reduce 12.6V to 8V.

Edit: 8V is detected without the circuit loaded, so I would expect you to read 12.6V at pin 9 even with 15 Ohms of resistance. It seems that the original JBE has a short to ground in the terminal 87 to pin 9 trace rather than a broken trace.

 

Do you think this short to ground could be fixed by using your bypass?

 

I think we now have a better understanding about the fuel pump relay faults in the original and new JBEs, but we don't know what caused the JBEs to fail.

 

It may be easier and better to fix the broken trace in the new JBE. Consider sending floodhound a private message to inquire whether he would be willing to repair the new JBE based on your convincing test results.

 

Is it possible the new JBE was damaged right out of the box? If so, would it be worth returning it and asking for a replacement?

 

My only hesitation about sending it off is that I'm trying to get my car back on the road as soon as possible since it's affecting my ability to get to work. I'll run this by my dad as well and see if it's something he'd be willing to try (he used to repair circuit boards a while ago). I'm also totally willing to try something experimental if it means getting everything to work - worst case scenario, I just desolder whatever I add on between terminal 87 and pin 9

 

It was a used unit pulled from another R56S and they don't offer a return policy. I didn't hesitate buying it because I've heard how hard it is to get ahold of the exact right unit

 

 

Definitely proceed in any way that is in your best interests!

 

Do you think that we should start looking at issues relating to the OBDII D-CAN network? Or should I get the fueling situation sorted first?

 

This is a good idea.

 

This thread is overly long and I cant read each detail but....

I feel that this thread has taken you off on a wild chase of never ending issues. I suggest that you start over from the beginning and proceed with slow logical choices.

Wasn't the problem fuel?

Did you replace the HPFP low pressure? Fuel filter?

The PCB/s?
Did you replace the fuel pump relay on the circuit board? If so, what part number do you have? Did you damage the PCB/s during disassembly? If so can you highlight it in a photo? Did you cut the pins in order to separate the PCB sandwich? Did you replace these pins or resolder them together? Inspect the soldering of said pins and their respective joints to the PCB. Did you use solder wick?

This is what I would be asking myself. I apologize if all this was already addresses.

 

Summary:
The original and replacement JBEs had issues but they were not the standard issue of a bad terminal 30G relay solder joint like your JBE.

The issues were faults in the JBE circuit board that either eliminated voltage to the fuel pump or reduced voltage to the fuel pump. The faults were between the K96 relay terminal 87 socket and pin 9 of JBE X11010 connector.

 

I just finished soldering wire between terminal 87 and pin 9, and the socket receives 12.6V - however, the fuel pump runs at all times even when the car is off. I could wire in a switch that lets me manually turn on and off the fuel pump, but the problem is that the car still won't even start. I figured if we got the pump running, the car would start. I am at such a loss of words right now...

 

Post clear pictures of the jumper wire installation and the solder joints. My initial wild guess is that some of your solder may be contacting a trace or component with constant battery voltage because terminal 87 gets voltage from fuse 46, which loses voltage with the key off.

 

In the picture, it might look like there's also contact with the pin next to pin 9, but only the insulation is touching at that point

 

You need to find the source for the unexpected voltage. Desolder the wire attached to pin 9. With the key off, does either pin 9 or terminal 87 still have voltage?

Does the K96 relay seat properly with the wire soldered to the terminal 87 socket.