LOL much much better.

Wrt the coding, almost everything is controlled digitally and calculated by an ecu. Based on that alone I honestly believe the diameter and VO indicates to the ecu that the setup is a bigger calliper/rotor setup and makes adjustments to braking force/abs.
This is just my opinion based on working with electronics for quite sometime.
The brakes will work but I don’t think they would operate efficiently without coding.

 

thanks for the info. I’ll look into the e-sys software. See if I can figure it out.

 

what tools are needed to start coding?
i'm new to this and i'm running a track setup but still my pedal sinks when braking hard a few times.. not a good feeling.

 

Esys or Esysx and an OBD2 to ENET cable.

Fair warning. If you are new to this I do not suggest playing with your cars coding. Esys gives you a whole lot of room to screw things up if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Also, if your pedal is sinking I don’t think that’s a coding issue. Check your brake fluid for water content and consider braided lines.

 

Changing the fluid to Castrol SRF racing.
braided lines were installed a while ago.
If this isn't the issue, then i'm going to look for someone that can code with esys.

 

A bit of background, I'm a Bosch Embedded SW Engineer for Braking Systems, which includes ABS, TCS, ESC, etc. It is very important to code the brakes, the ABS unit MUST have the correct diameters and braking force parameters because under certain conditions, the vehicle might be under braked or even unstable. Remember that brakes do much more than just ABS these days, they also work in tandem with the engine ECU to provide good traction control or even stability control on low mue/ split mue surfaces.

 

Thanks for this, confirms my thinking.

 

Hi, I’ve manages to add SPOB to FA and code the VO. But I can only find DSC2 in the list and cannot find anywhere to change the disc size. I’m using Esys 3.33 with Psdzdata 4.22.32 Lite.

Tq for any input

 

Wondering where I find the software to get this done?

 

Ok after some poking around, I managed to read the coding data from DSC2 and generate CAFD file. But when I tried to Edit FDL, I got an error “est file not found”. Any ideas?

 

you can search Esys and get the link to download...

 

Finally got my JCW brakes programmed. They seem marginally better, maybe. I’m still not sure if it’s necessary but beings this is my daughters car it makes me feel better everything is right with the traction control.

 

Hi, this is the condition of my brake pad after 5K miles. Seems like the wear rate is quite high. How much mileage can you get from your original pad?

Tq

 

I would have to say that is 'excessive' wear for 5K miles...unless those are on track miles? Were those rotors new 5K miles ago, since I see a pretty good lip toward the minor diameter of the sweep area. Another question that comes to mind...Are you a 2 footed driver (i.e.- resting left foot on brake)?

 

No track just normal toad and I’m a single footer. The disc has no sign of wear. The lip is an optical illusion/reflection..

 

I’m getting ready to replace the factory pads with hawk hps pads after couple hundred miles. The factory pads dust way too much.

 

Changed my brake pads today. The wear is uneven, more on the outer side. On the inner side, one portion has higher wear. The pistons are not sticking. Wierd..

 

The inside/outside wear is pretty common, even on non-MINI vehicles, it has to do with how the caliper 'slides' and how well the piston releases pressure from the inside pad. The inside pads typically get more wear being against the caliper piston. Also, don't forget that the calipers can slightly 'twist' on their slides, which can cause a taper wear pattern in the pads as well. I don't see anything truly 'out of whack' with the pad pics above.

 

I’m using a fixed 4-pot Brembo caliper, so the caliper does not slide/twist like normal floating caliper.

 

Ah, had it stuck in my mind that those were the rear pads, sorry about that. In any case, the side/area that has more wear is where the pistons are not properly retracting back into the bore. I know you stated that the pistons are not sticking, but I would have to disagree. The amount of sticking may be minimal, but they are not retracting and keeping the pad against the rotor, that is the only way the pad can wear. Over time, the piston seals harden which increases the 'stiction' of the piston. As your pads wear, the pistons also protrude out of the bore more and any moisture that gets into the boot can cause corrosion on the piston's outer wall. When you go and put new pads in, the pistons have to be seated back fully into the bore and any surface corrosion/contamination will also increase friction between the seal and piston. Caliper pistons live a 'rough' life and need regular maintenance and/or replacement, it is just a fact.