Today I finally got around to replacing the front rotors on the S with the 'bling' rotors of drilled/slotted/plated. Been a bit busy on a customer's D sports racer so I've been lagging....

The front rotors were replaced via hat and rotor for simple exchange. We also final fit the rears as listed below.

The rear fit exactly as planned, the new Earl's hoses fit well and it took about an hour to do. Only snag for some may be the enlarging of the body bracket for the hose anchor. A Dremmel tool will make quick work of it as you only knock off some minor high spots. I'll rate this one a "2" on the install scale. I rehashed the E brake cable thing again and wound up where I started; pull if from the two cable anchors and it's fine. The need for longer cables or changes are up to the end user. As I stated before; the inner cable does not pull on the lever in this manner, only the entire assembly is stretched, thus the working relation stays the same. Can you change it? Sure, but the wheel rotate freely in bump and droop and that's what matters. Pull handle in the car was as before.

I'm thinking of some sort of front and rear combo deal to put up for a short time. I'll let you know as I run the numbers. Speaking of numbers, I revised the MINI web page today and it should be currrent. You'll note the kit went up about $20. That was to keep it in step with others of similar design and to add to the hosing I get from 'Brown' lately.... I might point out that regardless of this the value of my kits is about $300-500 under priced in comparrison product. That's the beauty of dealing builder direct. Other builders may list kits for more but they have too in order too support the middle man. Buying brand X from dealer Y simply means he's putting 15-20% in his pocket. For this reason I've chosen to stay "end user direct". You call or email, you get me. You need help, you call me. You have issues, you call me. The buck stops here.


Thanks for the input and suggestion everyone, I've enjoyed it. Now let's stop that MINI!

 

I can't see the pics, can you just insert them into your text body and not add them as attachments?

 

Ryephile,

I edited the original post to show the pictures in the body of the post.

Dave

 

WOW that looks awesome!! When we finally upgrade our rims, we may need an upgrade on our brakes as well

 

After wheel upgrades you can usually see the brakes better so that might be a good time for an upgrade.

After power upgrades you can feel the need to stop precisely so that might be a really good time to upgrade braking power.

If you do light track driving regularly or you just like to drive really hard on autocross then a brake upgrade would be something you can make good use of.

I think the pictures look really sharp. Well done.And a good price!

 

How did you do that? I figured out how to put in the thumbnails...for me that's a start.

 

Will this front/rear kit fit 16x7 SSR Comps(42 offset, I believe)?

And how much?

Thanks.

DDTUNG

 

I admit; I'm thoroughly lost on all the MINI wheel options. Without having all the wheels (? 4-6 type now) to do final test fit on I can only offer the following:

The wheels in the pics are the R wheel I believe in question are they not? That's what I've been told. They do fit with the supplied .065" spacer.

I can also offer up clearance requirements for alternate wheels via a spread sheet to allow for you to do some checking on your own.

As for price; the detials are about three threads below stating the $1300 special for the next two days only.

 

Those are R90 wheels. Also, the R90s require the spacer in the front only...right?

 

Front only, that is correct.

Now, show me what exactly is the SSR wheel please. If this is the wheel in which we fit the DP kit then the issue will be diameter as that wheel is 16"-right?

Is there a list of wheels somewhere, both 16s and 17s. And I'm told that there is another one coming for '05? Believe me, I wish I could give exacting specifics in a more complete manner, but without wheels/cars it's a bit difficult.

**Hands down the most wheel friendly kit is going to be the Wilwood factory kit of the DP caliper. It's shortcomings have been talked about however for those who are looking for a more 'track car' result.

 

Your DP kit test fit was on the stock MCS wheel - it's called R84 or X-lite (aka Monza, aka V-spoke), 16x6.5 w/ 48mm offset (I think)

The SSR Competition looks like this:

It comes in various diameters, widths, offsets and color schemes, but most of us buy them for their light weight. For example, my 17x7.5 weigh only 13 lb.

 

Thanks.
If the exact wheel for the MINI has that deep a center then you'd be able to clear the 1.10 rotor set up. But...the relationship of the hub face to the spokes changes when they machine the 'offset' of the wheel. While this wheel may clear a monster BBK on one car, it could well contact another.

The spoke shap is very promising and given they are built with competition in mind most likely they will clear the narrow kit with ease.

While I don't have the excel sheet here at home, I recall the street kit needing about 1-1.25" and the race kit 1.375-1.400" from the wheel hub face to the back side of the spoke. Meaining; flip over a wheel, place a flat edge on the hub face (center hole) and measure down from there to the spoke. Do this at about a radius of 4.25-6.0" from center bore. A template without paper so to speak.

 

Thanks Todd. I just woke up and saw your response. Hope it's not too late to put in my order. I live in Hong Kong so we'll have to work out shipping details.


DDTUNG

 

China? Cool. Done the Philipines, England, Brazil, Australia, Germany and a couple others. Never Hong Kong.

Probably do not need to tell you that shiping can be a bit pricey. If you have a shipper in mind or an account lets use them. I'd opt for the USPS and they would most likely require two boxes for min weight. I'll bet we are talking a couple of hundred dollars too.

Best way on this type of deal is Paypal if you have an account. I usually do some research and require a shipping deposit. Then I refund the over payment or ask for the balance.

 

What's your estimate of the shipping weight?

I'll probably order the rotors slotted and drilled.

Paypal should be fine.

I already have stock size aftermarket rotors(dba gold), pads(Mintex 1144 blue box), and ss hoses on the car. Does your kit include ss hoses?

DDTUNG

 

DAYUMN, your car is smooooth. I like it, I like it a lot

 

What's your estimate of the shipping weight?

* The .81 kits I'd put at about 48lbs, the rears at 20 maybe. Not sure. I'd box them equally to keep the box weight down and safer.

I'll probably order the rotors slotted and drilled.

* Up to you. Add the zinc too?

Paypal should be fine.
* Simple and effective for refunds.

I already have stock size aftermarket rotors(dba gold), pads(Mintex 1144 blue box), and ss hoses on the car. Does your kit include ss hoses?

*Certainly does. If you wish I can send you a pair of -3 hose ends and take you some $ off. You'd have to cut and fit the ends yourself however. Personallly; I'd stick with mine and just pass the others to a friend.

 

Do I need the zinc?

How much off for the -3 hose ends and DIY? Why do you advise staying with your ss hose?

Thanks.

DDTUNG

 

No, of course not.

Zinc is a rust 'limiter' (not a final preventative) and only stays on the rotor in those places where the pad does not contact it.

I'd take off $50 if you want the ends only, but I'll have to check and be sure I have 90* ends for you. I'm only suggeting use of my Earl's hoses as I KNOW they fit and 'no fuss, no muss' means you can just finish the project.

 

Todd et al,

Finally opened the box with the front kit at my new place today. These things are just bad @$$. And the calipers... they make stock M3 calipers look like they belong on go-karts.

I'm definately impressed with the kit... now if my aug production get's here so I can test these suckers out that would be sweet!

Patrick

 

Todd,

I take your advice and use your ss hoses. No zinc for the rotors, just slotted and drilled 0.81". Any other options to decide on? What about pads?

DDTUNG

 

Come with Q pads. Very nice street pad. And in fact I have a Lightning customer who forgot and ran them on an autocross! 5000lbs truck and he said they weren't too bad! Better on the second lap with more heat. But NOT road race material.

You might consider a second set of D or E if you do occasional track or AutoX runs. Or you can go full bore and jump to J pads for heavy track day use. Beware; they stop fast..like right NOW.

E for modest track use
D for AutoX
Q for street

Prices are on the 'pads' page.



BTW: Shipping options. Based on 40lbs, x 2 boxes.
2-3 day $192 x 2 $384
3-5 day $183 x 2 $366
4-10 day $169 x 2 $338

 

I don't think you'll be the least bid disappointed.
And those rotors are probably better than I described; used? Heat cycled maybe!

 

Todd,

Thanks. I read the pads page and can't decide between the Q and the D or E. Any advice?

Got your PM and I'll take care of it.

DDTUNG

 

Yes, scroll up two post or so.. lol

I probably edited it after you read the first time. Sorry.

Q pads are 'standard', and the results of use on both E and D are very favorable in the enviroment stated above. Both D and E are not the most street friendly due to their noise and dust levels.