How long are the studs?

 

65mm overall... 40mm of threads showing outside the hub/rotor.

 

WOW! THis is exactly what I was looking for! I was looking for something just like this just to put Volks on my 10/2006 MCS. And you said it just right above...I was really afraid of buying the the wheels until I found this piece of the puzzle....

My wife will be sooooo happy for my impending $3,000 wheel purchase.

Just one noob question, I am also one that doesnt want to see much stud protruding from beyond the face of the wheel. But I want the R26 nuts. Is there something like a close ended chrome or colored alloy nut/cap that I can put on the balance of the stud to "finish" off the end nicely?

And, embarrassingly, where do I get this so-called red loctite?

THANKS TXWERKS!!

 

I think your photo of the Muteki box in your other announcement thread says that they are 25 grams each...not 36....is that right?

Also, is it correct that the Kics R26 are 26grams and also 26mm long and the KicsR40's are 40 grams and 40 mm long?

 

Yes, the Mutekis are 25 grams, IIRC...

The Kics R26 are 26 grams... The R40's are longer and heavier as you stated...

 

You should be able to find Loctite at any local, well-equipped hardware store (you're in the US, right? Anywhere else & you're on your own...) but I'd have to tell you to steer away from RED Loctite in favor of the BLUE flavor.

RED is PERMANENT & will require heat and/or a pair of ViseGrips applied to the studs to break 'em loose after 24 hours. BLUE you can get to come away after any time passing, but will resist the threads coming loose by themselves.

I just got off the phone with Texas Speedworks after ordering a set of their M14-1.25>1.5 adapter studs & he confirmed this, though it's not on the PDF they have up on their website.

BLUE should be easier to find & infinitely easier to live with later on....

 

Again what is the purpose of the blue loc-tite? I was asking the garage that was going to do the install for me since I dont have the facilities, etc....and they seemed sort of set in their ways...and was resistant to the blue loctite....

 

For lack of a better example, the blue loc-tite is like a glue for threaded bolts, that when it cures keeps the bolt from coming unscrewed until you use a wrench to unscrew it.

If the local garage won't use the Loc-tite as recommended by the supplier, I'd find another garage.

Hopefully this would never happen, but what if you had the lug bolts installed and didn't follow the recommendations of the supplier. While driving your MINI a wheel ran off causing a wreck because the lug bolts came unscrewed. During the investigation, it is found that the installer did not properly install the bolts as recommended by the supplier (it is easy to tell if blue Loc-tite was used). Guess who couldn't be held responsible.

Loc-tite is only 3 or so bucks, and can be found at any hardware, Walmart, Sears. I'd say spend the 3 bucks and find someone you can trust to do it right.

 

TX Werks should really write this into their instructions.

 

TSW specifies Red Loctite in their instructions.

 

my instructions specified blue loctite. should i clean the studs off with soap and water before i apply the blue loctite?

 

You can clean off the threads that screw into the hub with alcohol or carburetor cleaner before applying the Loctite (make sure to dry the parts completely before applying Loctite). Loctite is fairly tolerant of oily contaminants, but you'll get a better bond if the threads are clean and dry. The same applies to the mating threads in the hub.

 

cool thanks!

 

Once installed brush a LITTLE anti-seize on the exposed part of the threads. All you need is a tiny amount on each and wipe it all over the exposed threads with a paper towel. Makes changing wheels a snap.

 

Wheel lug torque specifications are for clean and dry threads (no lubricant) that are free of dirt, grit, etc. Applying oil, grease or anti-seize lubricants to the threads will result in inaccurate torque values that over tighten the wheels.

Alex

 

Anybody using these and/or have pictures of them installed? How much do the studs stick out from say a typical 7-1/2 wide wheel? Will you be able to use regular closed end lug nuts or because of the length you will need the open ended ones?

 

I just removed my stud kit because I finally got around to machining (and painting) my old wheels to accept the 14mm lug bolt size. The exposed parts were somewhat corroded (rusty?) and one split at the end where the allen bolt is inserted (probably my fault for not getting the allen bolt properly inserted before unscrewing). Another one came out with the lug bolt still in place - they had fused together. Make sure you have extras.

With the provided lug nuts, there was still about 1/2" of thread showing, which appeared dirty from day 1. I was never able to find a satisfactory cap for the exposed ends (I thought a 1/2" diameter vacuum hose cab would be perfect). I would recommend either covering the ends with a vacuum hose cap (b/c of the light weight and opportunity to add color), or use a single deep closed end lug nut. I don't know if TSW has them.

The stud kit did serve it's purpose for about 6 months, but in the end if you aren't switching wheels often, l think lug bolts are better, and definitely lighter when you consider that the stud is almost twice as long.

BTW, I used red loctite, but was still able to remove the studs with a little effort.

 

Thanks for the reply, that extra length is worrisome, what if I have centercaps that cover the lugnut holes, there's a chance that the studs may prevent the centercaps from seating properly onto the wheel. And on wheels without centercaps that cover the lugs, i don't think i want to see 1/2" of threads after the lugnut.

If you machine out the hole to 14mm, doesn't that reduce the contact surface between the lug and wheel? Can you do it with a hand drill or our we talking precise machining with a drill press and making sure it's exactly centered?

 

Good point about the center caps. Studs are really intended for racing, where quick wheel changes are necessary, and center caps would not be used. I only used them because my aftermarket wheels did not accommodate 14mm lug bolts.

Because they need to be very accurate, I had them professionally machined - only $15 per wheel. And no, I'm not worried about less contact.

 

Depending on where you live, you will have to perform some maintenance on your studs from time to time to keep them in tip-top shape. If you live in a salty or snowy climate (or both), it's a good idea to periodically remove the lug nuts, brush away any surface rust with a wire brush, and clean them up. They're not an 'install and forget it' solution.

Two things on the split for the allen broach on the end - one, the red loctite obviously works, making it very tough to get the studs out; two, we've revised the design on the broach for the M14-M12 studs and made it 1mm smaller to allow more wall thickness.

The new studs also have a different finish - a different plating that is more rust resistant than the original black oxide finish. But, any and ALL coatings in this application will rust at some point, so you still need to practice maintenance on them from time-to-time.

 

I have an MC 07 and I'm trying to convert to the 14x1.25 to 12x1.5. I am using both aftermarket rims and OE tires. Has any company come out with a stud conversion kit that does not stick out 1/2" past the rim and not allow the center caps to snap into place properly? And even if you are using aftermarket rims without spacers aren't they also going to stick out past the rim (depending on the rim?)

 

It would be nice to have the conversion kit in different lengths cuz mine stick waaay out. I don't mind the look so much with these rims, but it is a concern if purchasing new rims.

 

checked txwerks' website just now and they no longer have the M14-M12 stud conversion and already emailed them about it. any of you guys know if they're redesigning it or stopped production?

 

 

Jeff is swamped, and my bet it is a website issue. Be patient for a few days and I bet it comes back -- TSW is small but very good.