And this is the final product. Without the conversion kit, this wasn't gonna happen. Thanks again.

 

So I just need an opinion before I order - I have a late 2006 cabrio with the 5 spoke bullets. No plans for different wheels or brakes in the forseeable future. But I really want studs. Should I go with the 14-14 or 14-12 studs? Any downside to running the 14-12's with stock wheels? I know it's supposed to work, I just wonder if there are ANY potential issues here that would make the 14-14's better. If not, why even have 14-14's?

 

No one's every come up with a reason for MINI switching to 14mm bolts. I would think that if the reason were compelling enough (i.e. safety), they would have issued a recall and fitted all of the earlier cars with new hubs/rotors/bolts, or at least installed conversion kits.

The factory wheels haven't changed with the introduction of the 14mm bolts, so as long as the seat angle on the nuts that come with the conversion kit is correct, the stock wheels will work fine with the conversion studs.

The only downside to using the conversion kit with factory wheels is that it's money that you don't technically have to spend (although the studs do make wheel removal/installation easier, even with factory wheels).

 

Maxicooper
Can you get a closer pic of the studs on the wheel.

 

Actually, I supposed to take some pictures before mounting the wheels. I'm too exited, so I forgot.
I will try to have the pictures tomorrow, if it's not too cold.

I can honestly tell you that the kit is well made, it's worth every penny.

 

Thanks

 

Mini germany decided to make the change as were informed in london last yar to a variety of reasons. This included weight,torque and aftermarket rim sales. We imediately began manufacturing f-1 track grade tuner lugs which can be used on any wheel with the added benefit of thetuner opening. The reason we did not do a step down 14-12 is a weak point that occurs when doing that. We have a 14xxxxx1.25 and12x1.50 tuner lug and stud conversion kit, all with a f-1 track rating of 10.3,. we always have nam kit pricing for all our proucts for alll nam members.
bryce, palo uber mini

 

Expound upon the weak point you speak of... If you're talking peak loads, yes, an M14 is stronger than an M12 - the M12 will break first. Otherwise, if you're talking about the manufacturing process - using the finest material that's CNC'd from M14 to M12, threads rolled with the best equipment on the planet, and then treated to proper heat treating - well, let's just say that I'm certain they are considerably stronger than OEM parts. And, they're made right here in the USA...

MINI changed to M14's so that they could limit consumer's wheel choices, limit their access to aftermarket rotors, BBK's, etc. - or, if they didn't, they sure made great inroads into screwing their buyers. They haven't changed the weight of the new model much, they haven't changed the torque spec - so why the need to go with an M14 with a thread pitch that hasn't been used since Alfa Romeo used it last? To say they changed to carry more weight is ludicrous... If you want to come in and start chatting about engineering, let's chat about engineering.

I should point out, again, that lug bolts and/or studs are not there to bear any load... if they are, you should run away, fast, because someone's going to lose a wheel. Bolts and studs are also not supposed to carry the load. When they do, they shear off!

The interface between the wheel and the hub carries the load. That's right, the vertical planes which contact each other transfer all shear loads by static friction. The source of the static friction is the compression imparted by the fasteners (lug bolts or studs). Tensile loads are taken directly by reducing the spring force stored in the flange compression, that is, the loads tend to reduce the compression between the flanges that is set up by the bolts. Since the bolts have a far smaller cross-sectional area than the flange faces (even collectively), they have a much smaller spring constant, so the force they contribute to the joint varies far less per unit distance than the flange compression. In other words, the forces due to lug tightening stay fairly constant as the load varies across the flanges. This is why your wheels don't fall off around a corner.

However, it IS the reason why some folks know someone whose wheels fell off after they lubricated the studs or bolt holes. If a little bit of lubricant gets between the wheel and the hub, then the friction between the two goes down, sometimes a LOT. In that case, the bolts cannot set up enough static friction between them, and the joint can slip, resulting in a high-powered tricycle adventure. Remember to keep the threads oiled and the flanges clean!

The point is, there's a lot more to the basic "four lugs and a wheel" interface than meets the eye... This is why a thin layer of grime can cause a wheel to shear off, or why a wheel that is properly centered (by luck or by a really good cone lug fit) doesn't need centering rings.

 

If you're only ever going to run stock wheels... There are people that requested them, so we made 'em.

 

I got the conversion studs and lugnuts yesterday, and they look great. The torque values for the nuts are on the back of the package, but did TSW ever publish the torque values for attaching the studs to the hub? In the absence of specific guidance, I'm thinking about red loc-tite and 90 lbf-ft of torque?

 

Sorry about that - we realized that the other day.

Red Loctite and 18 ft/lbs, believe it or not... You don't need that much torque on the studs. Our new spec sheet will suggest 18 ft/lbs.

 

For those who have asked, we're looking into making M12 studs...

 

..returned from a trip this afternoon and had a present! The studs/lugs and jack plates I ordered are here! Extremely well packaged I might add--thanks.

And thanks agan for doing this! Can hardly wait to get 'em on w/ the new wheels!

to answer a question someone posted earlier...the biggest reason for me was to be able to use my 3 sets of SSRs w/out drilling 'em to fit teh stock 14mm bolts...and I like studs better than bolts anyway. A nice plus is the standard thread pitcjh for lug availability.

I love the OUTSTANDING R26 lugs w/ the rotating seats too...in fact I'm ordering another set for my Miata. Finally found teh Volk wheels I wanted for that car and don't wanna scratch up the finish on 'em.

 

Yes! the R26 lugs are a piece of art. The rotating seats are awesome plus the weight of these are nil. Thanks guys

 

When install, make sure you follow the instruction properly, trust me on this.

 

Fun!!

 

Maxicooper
What is the problem with the install. Any reason for your statement?

 

No problem at all, everything works perfectly fine. Only one thing, you have to be careful not to use impact wrench, VERY IMPORTANT.
I love the product. I might want to get the R26 though, but I don't know if they want to sell it seperate from the kit.
Thank you Jeff, your conversion kit is awesome.

 

You can order the R26's seperately... they're on the site!

 

External spline drive + impact wrench = bad... If you do it by hand, there's no worries.

BTW, we shipped you a replacement key yesterday...

 

So I thought I was going to do my M14-M12 stud install yesterday - I test fitted one to see how it would work. I have 5 spoke bullets and don't plan any aftermarket wheels anytime soon.

The nuts go WAY into the wheel recesses - feel like they're only covering about 1/2 of the available wheel seat - though I'm probably just being paranoid.

The bigger issue for me is the length - I know they're long on purpose, to support spacers, etc. But in my case, that left almost an inch of stud protruding beyond the nuts and beyond the wheel face - not the look I'm wanting... Here's the comparison of stock bolt length to the studs, and shows about how much stud is left protruding.



So I'm wondering if the M14-M14 studs are the same length? Or if anyone else is working on a solution with shorter studs? I have NO gripes with the TXWerks M14-M12 offering here - it's just not going to be right for me.

 

Their length also concerns me. Can the M14-M12 studs be cut? If not, I'll use deep closed nuts over the lug nuts?

 

The M14-M14 studs are the same length as the M14-M12 studs... However, the M14 lug nuts are taller than the Muteki's. Depending on your wheels, it's entirely possible that the stud will not protrude beyond the end of the nut. However, the studs will still likely poke out beyond your wheel centers...

The R26's are also considerably longer than the Muteki's - and, there are plenty of other choices out there for lug nuts in an M12x1.5 pitch (closed and open end).

 

Hi folks,

We've had a few people contact us, concerned that they see a bit of surface rust on the conversion studs. The studs are protected with a black oxide coating, but it is true that some discoloration can become evident on the threads with use.

I want to assure you that this "blushing" does not in any way compromise the strength of the studs. If the discoloration is bothersome, a wire brush and a light oil will knock it right off. A very light application of Permatex anti-seize to the threads of the stud will also greatly diminish or eliminate oxidation.

I have driven, and raced, on oxide-coated studs for about 20 years now, and my father used them exclusively for about 25 years before that, so I am quite sure they will function well.

 

Now in stock - M12x1.5 studs for everyone that does NOT have those dadgum M14 bolts!

Welp, we had LOTS of requests for an M12x1.5 stud for the earlier MINI's - so we made 'em! They arrived today and we promptly installed 3 sets on our track rats...

Same great quality as our M14-M12 and M14 conversion studs - premium materials, heat treated, black oxide finish and MADE IN THE USA!

Set of 16 studs available online now for $59.95!