Tires, Wheels, & Brakes Discussion about wheels, tires, and brakes for the new MINI.

Green Stuff brakes, but no bite...

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Old 03-30-2006, 02:46 PM
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Green Stuff brakes, but no bite...

Okay, I’ve not had a lot of success searching the forums so here’s the question:

I’ve installed new Green Stuff pads, had the rotors turned, and did a bed-in (warming the pads up, braking hard several time but not stopping, and then let them cool completely).

Now, the brake feel is crap. I feel like I’m pushing the pedal almost through the carpet to get the brakes to bite and they feel nowhere near as strong as the pads I took off that had 40k on ‘em.

I’ve checked the brake fluid, and it seems fine, so I’m at a loss as to what the problem is.

Any ideas? Anyone else have similar problems, if so how did you fix it. I’m open to ideas and will answer any questions that I might not have covered.

Thanks!
Matteo
 
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Old 03-30-2006, 03:04 PM
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I'm not a brake expert by any means, but maybe a brake bleed is in order.
 
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Old 03-30-2006, 03:09 PM
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Yep, you need to do a thorough brake bleeding.
 
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Old 03-30-2006, 03:19 PM
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When was the last time you did a brake bleed??
 
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Old 03-30-2006, 03:47 PM
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I always bleed the brakes after bedding in new pads. You will get your brakes pretty hot while bedding them in.
 
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Old 03-30-2006, 09:40 PM
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I had the same thing you did. It went away after 300 miles or so. It even gives you the warning in the instructions. I'm out to lunch on these pads. The vendor said they should last almost as long as OEM but I wore mine out in 9K miles!
 
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Old 03-30-2006, 09:57 PM
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I had 'em and liked 'em...

and didn't have the issues you had. I did have some fade on a track, but a fluid change and metal bushings took that all away...

Hmmmm. Could it be that bedding compound that's on them?

No clue, really.

Matt
 
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Old 03-31-2006, 06:02 AM
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Bleeding the brakes...

Bleeding the brakes did not occur to me.
I'll give it a shot and respond back, though.

Is this something I should do myself or have the shop that did the pad install do it?

Thanks guys for the help. I really do appreciate it.
 
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Old 03-31-2006, 01:39 PM
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Okay, I've spent the day looking through the archives and have come across a pretty detailed process for bleeding the brakes.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...akes+procedure

I used to do this with my old VW and it really doesn't look any different.

However...

I came across something mentioning a clutch slave cylinder? Is this something that needs to be taken into account with the bleed or not?
 
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Old 03-31-2006, 02:24 PM
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I heard the clutch slave cylinder ties into the brake master cylinder so both of them would need to be bleed.
 
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Old 03-31-2006, 02:32 PM
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They are separate hydrolic curcuits...

that share a common resevoir. Cooking the fluid in your calipers won't effect the clutch. But if you're up for it, WTF, go for it!

Matt
 
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Old 03-31-2006, 02:34 PM
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the clutch slave cylinder is part of the master cylinder but doesnt affect how well the brakes work or not. try bleeding the brakes.
 
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Old 03-31-2006, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Matteo
Okay, I’ve not had a lot of success searching the forums so here’s the question:
I’ve installed new Green Stuff pads, had the rotors turned, and did a bed-in (warming the pads up, braking hard several time but not stopping, and then let them cool completely).

I'm afraid thats not the recommended method/procedure for bedding in Green Stuff pads.

Now, the brake feel is crap. I feel like I’m pushing the pedal almost through the carpet to get the brakes to bite and they feel nowhere near as strong as the pads I took off that had 40k on ‘em.

I’ve checked the brake fluid, and it seems fine, so I’m at a loss as to what the problem is.

Any ideas? Anyone else have similar problems, if so how did you fix it. I’m open to ideas and will answer any questions that I might not have covered.

Thanks!
Matteo
Per the Tire Rack
EBC

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
I will add that you don't want to drag these pads or do any excessive or harsh braking while breaking in EBC Green's.
Properly bedded in they will out brake OEM's.

NOTE: If a higher than normal amount of brake dust or excessive pad squeal from EBC pads and rotors is experienced, they may be glazed. Remove this glazing by decelerating aggressively from 60mph to 20mph in a safe area. This should be repeated 3 times. Then allow the brakes to cool by driving normally.
 
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Old 04-01-2006, 06:29 AM
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I had green stuff on my miata, and i didn't like them at all. I think i had the same problem where they didn't grab very well... but it didn't emit much brake dust.

I like the BMW pads more than any i've ever had, even thought it does kick off brake dust like a champ.
 
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