I'm new to the world of hubcentric rings... how snug should the fit be between the ring and the wheel? I've got some rings that fall right in and just barely jiggle about in the wheel opening, and another bunch (of metal rings) that require body weight or a rubber mallet to get seated in the wheel.

Is it worse to have rings that are a pain to seat and remove (not that I foresee a need to remove the rings), or rings that will fall out whenever I remove the wheels? :D

 

should be snug, but not overly tight or loose.

 

My track wheels require hubcentics and they fit is snug. I agree it was a real pain to get them off. What I did was to gouge a notch in the back side of the ring so I could wedge a flat blade screw driver between the ring and the hub and pry it off. Now its non issue. This tip should work for you as well.

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

yah...mine are "snug" too.....they get kinda stuck if the wheels are on there for a decent amount of time, but usually i can get a fingernail under them or something

 

duh . . . is there a thread that talks about what hubcentric rings are? I assume they are NOT the little girl pictured above?

 

The most important thing is the tightness of the fit of the wheel on the hub. Whichever one gives a tight fit that doesn't allow any movement of the wheel.

 

My hubcentric rings fit very snug to the wheels, but are a close/accurate fit to the hubs. This means that when I remove my wheels, the rings come off with the wheels, and do not stay on the hub. I think this is how it's supposed to go.

phil

 

When I had my S-Lites put on for the winter, the metal hubcentric rings I had for my FLIKs (3 of the 4) had to be destroyed to get off. The shop had to break them to get them off. I watched the whole process and they did everything you could imagine to get them off without breaking them. I had plastic ones for the first summer but my wheel had some shake in it so I decided to use the metal ones. They helped tremendously so I hesitate to go back to plastic. However, I don't want to go through that again to get the metal ones off. So, to answer the intial question, I don't know since I didn't watch them put them on.

 

Putting anti-seize on the hub will prevent that problem. Also, letting the hubs cool completely before trying to remove the rings will help.

 

it's the metal or plastic ring adapter that goes between the center bore
of your hub (car) and the back center hole of your wheel.

 

it's too much! My plastic rings had a few thousandths of an inch slop, and if I wasn't very carfull torquing the lugs, I'd get vibration.

The metal rings had to be put in with a mallet (not hard, but couldn't install them by hand). The wheel comes off the hub fine, and there's no vibration at with the metal rings.

If you have corrosion or crap on the hubs, clean it off with a wire wheel before putting the anti-sieze on.

Matt

 

Where can I get Metal rings? I have 17" Kosei K1TS and one of the plastic rings is damaged.

 

That's a good place to start. You can also contact Alex at Tire Rack. He helped my get metal ones for my wheels. Some also have gotten them at Discount Tire Direct.

Matt

 

Thanks... I guess I wasn't quite clear enough in my original question. So far, I have only played with the rings and the wheels in my apartment. I haven't gotten to the point of checking the rings against the hubs on the car.

Matt's answer seems to be the answer to the question I had.

I'm familiar with fitting wheels on the hubs (without rings), so I know how close a fit that should be. The unknown was the fit between the rings and the wheels.

 

what are you talking about? my name is Ken and i answered your novice
question on the very first post.

 

Matt

 

you weiner

 

what size of hubcentric rings should we get for our cars?

 

56.1mm

 

TRY WWW.1010TIRES.COM THEY HAVE ALUMINUM RINGS IN A VARIETY OF SIZES.

 

waaat?!!

 

now i am even more confused

 

56.1mm center bore size. the outer depends on your wheel.

 

The answer is metal rings and the use of anti-sieze. If you can wait to allow the hubs to cool, even better. However, even with the anti-sieze I often need to use a flat screw driver to remove the rings since I don't have time to wait for the hubs to cool - drive to autocross, change wheels, beat a few Z06's, change wheels back. I autocross on Rota's, which are hubcentric. My street wheels are not, thus the reason for the ring dance at each event. Oh, and the plastic ones will warp, whereas the metals one haven't, so far.

 

OK, my wheels arrived with the plastic rings way back when, I had expected metal. But I went ahead and all was OK. The metal ones showed up two days later.

I will switch to the metal rings when I rotate shortly. I got metal hub rings and also round 'spring' wire rings. Do the wire rings go in the wheel first or after the hubcentric ring. I assume they either a spacer if first or a retainer if last?

Thanks