anyone have this done at a mini dealership? I was wondering how much it cost . I think I need to replace my driver side rear wheel bearing as it is making a rubbing type sound and changes with steering input.
I have diagnosed this by rotating the tires as well as inspecting the brakes closely. Thus I believe I can rule out those two inputs to the issue.
also how bad is it to be driving around with this problem? It is starting to effect the steering wheel a bit in adding a constant shuddering at speed.
thanks
mininh

 

#1 get it repaired quickly, or more things may fail nearby; a lot of heat is generated driving around on a failed wheel bearing.

I don't see why it would cost a whole lot-except for the bearing itself; I would venture a guess of $2-300 for the bearing (should be a GEN3 bearing with integrated ABS sensor), and ~$1-150 for the install.

 

The rear bearing is super simple to fix as it comes as a whole hub unit only. I think this rear hub is only about $50. You can do it yourself rather easily. Just four bolts and your set. Of course you need to get to it first which require removal of brakes, but still a simple job.

 

I had the exact same one go bad... in my 2002 MCS. It's a whole unit, I think it was around $150 parts, then labor... BUT, it was done under warranty for me.

If you're out of warranty... I'd ask about having consideration as, IMHO, this isn't a NORMAL issue until a car is much older... unless you abuse the car or autocross, etc. At least the service manager told me not to worry as they would have probably done it for a reduced price/free if I was out of warranty.

EDIT: I see you have an 02 too... I've heard of a few of these in 02's and early 03's, so they probably know of it and won't fight you much.

 

Oh... as to "how bad"

This happened to me last spring right before I was due to head out to the Dragon. The service manager cringed as he said if the bearing failed completely I could lose it on a twisty and go splat.... OUCH. So, be very careful...

That being said, I first started to complain about grinding noises 20 THOUSAND miles before it was finally fixed and I never killed myself or had control issues.

I was given several explanations that I believe were of the "calm the OCD lady down"... including that I probably had heard a pebble on the rotor (but there were no grooves), that my tires need rotating (which didn't help), and that I needed new tires (which also didn't help)... I just have a hard time dealing with service people that think I'm ignorant just because I'm female.

 

I have a whirring noise from one of my wheels too, which I think/thought was a wheel bearing. Dealership told me I needed new tires. Should be getting them soon, and if the noise doesn't go away, oh there'll be hell to pay

 

I think I have a passenger rear wheel bearing failing too. At first I thought it was something with the brakes, but after repeated 60-20 and 60-0 brake checks trying to cure the problem... and entertain my passenger it's still there. It whirs or grinds horribly at low speed or when cold. If I apply the e-brake when it's grinding while driving it grinds/whirs and then usually stops.

It doesn't occur at higher speeds and if I do a miniature skidpad test, crank the wheel and drive in a circle until I'm dizzy, it seems to stop it for the duration of the drive, ~20 min.

It's an 03 so looks like maybe a trip to the dealer is in order... 4 hours away.

 

thanks for all the posts,
I am taking it in tomorow morning, I think my mini is self destructing as my airbag light just went on at lunch, I just had the passenger airbag replaced last month.
Anyone ever feel like no matter how much maintenance and care you put into something after a while (usaualy after the warranty is up) it just starts to crap out on ya?

-Well I better get the old check book ready.....

 

a new hub/bearing looks like about $130-155 rear and $140 front on this site:
http://catalog.drivewire.com/drivewi...l+Hub+Assembly

 

i just replaced my front wheel bearing, it cost me 143 with tax in utah and i installed the bearing myself in 1.5 hours, very easy, but you will need tourqe wrench to set bolts back to spec. it was very very easy to do and saved me 120 in labor cost for one bearing!!

 

240 for new rear wheel bearing installed at Mini Peabody in Ma.
I still can't believe I had one of these fail with only 3.5 years on the clock and 60K on the odometer.

 

I have this fix in progress right now - can you/anyone give me the proper torque values for the various bolts? Is there any place to go to find them myself?

 

from the bentley manual:

brake caliper to trailing arm (M10) 48 ft-lb
brake disk to wheel hub (Torx M10x13) 20 ft-lb
road wheel to hub 89 +- 7 ft-lb
wheel hub to trailing arm (M10 x 35 mm) 41 ft-lb
wheel speed sensor to trailing arm (M6) 71 in-lb (or 6 ft-lb)

 

I just replaced my front bearing, it was 108$ from Classic Mini. My own labor was about 1.5 hours. Rear bearing is about the same, parts should be around 102$ + shipping from Classic Mini. Labor should be max 1.5 hours. My local shop would have presed a new front in for about 60$, but it was less downtime to get the whole unit than to arrange the shop work. The work is about as challenging as a brake job (rotor and pads) on one wheel. You will need a T-50 torx bit, they run about 5$. The bentley manual says the speed sensor should come out, but I was able to carefully avoid bonking it.

 

Thanks, guess I need to get a bentley manual. How about spec for the drive shaft nut?

 

drive axle outer cv joint to bearing hub (M22x1.5)(replace flange nut)
134 ft-lb.

 

Im looking at doing the rear hub replacement myself. Im not a mechanic, but do have some tools. Can I achieve these torque values with a good wrench? Is the brake difficult to take off without any power tools?

 

Acheiving the values is easy with a typical wrench, the risk is over-torqueing.
I'd consider investing 50-100 bucks on a torque wrench.
The brakes are not difficult to remove with hand tools.

GL

 

many chain auto-parts stores will 'loan' tools.

You leave a hefty deposit and they return it when you return the tool undamaged. In this way you can get your hands on a decent torq' wrench and anything else you might need and tool wize.

very doable with hand tools (you might need a breaker bar but that's nothing special) and be prepared with liberal amounts of PB Blaster

 

Has anyone tried pressing the bearing itself out of the hub and pressing in new bearing and seals? Some parts warehouses on the 'net advertise a bearing/seal kit for around 25 bucks.

 

Probably not in your best interest to do that. If it's designed to be replaced as a whole unit, you're better off going in that direction. The bearing has a chance of sealing because your tolerances have changed from stock since the car has been driven, (heated and cooled).

 

I wonder with this wheel bearing noise if it is a lack of lubrication, wheel bearings drying out. Maybe if it was possible to get some heavy oil into the bearing the noise would go away! Just a thought!

 

Once a bearing makes noise ,it's gone.You can play with or "experiment with a bearing somewhere else ,but not on a wheel,please. Duaine

 

Just discovered both rear wheel bearings on our 09 Cooper crapped out...@68k. I had 3 Honda's with over 300k on each one and never changed a wheel bearing

How long are you getting out of your front bearings...wondering if I should just buy all 4 at the same time, my closest dealer is 5 hours away?

Just spent $600 on a brake job, cars not even 2 years old yet.

 

I've seen a few fail but its not the most common failure. If you need the bearings let me know I can get you a set, but I wouldn't replace the fronts unless you need them, it's just to costly to do it unless they are worn out.