I'm installing stainless steel brake lines and need to bleed the system. I've seen a lot of people praising Super Blue brake fluid, but can't seem to find it at any local parts stores.

If I'm not taking my car to the track or any crazy stuff like that, does it really matter if I DON'T use Super Blue? Can I just use some 'standard' DOT 4 brake fluid? Is there a performance difference for normal driving?

Thanks for any help.

 

From a performance stand point, unless you are boiling the fluid in use now; NO. *Assuming the fluid does not currently have 100k miles on it, has been through six winters of neglect etc etc.

Changing to a higher BP (boiling point) fluid will not effect how your brakes perform. It will simply raise the bar for temperature operation. DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids offer more than ample temperature range for daily street use. In rubber or ss hoses. If you plan to open track the car or make repeated runs down some canyon you'd not know the difference in feel or temp ratings.

I'll let others here (no doubt) post the exacting figures on a dozen or so fluids that may tickle your fancy. Dry and Wet BPs are both important.

As a simple rule- most of the high dry point fluids are more suseptable to moisture and have a shorter working life. High end racing fluid are expected to be flushed regularly. If not they become contaminated and the bp drops to that of the less priced fluid to begin with.

Being hydroscopic the fluid absorbs moisture. Humidity in fact. Note the wet point where (I believe it's 1% contamination) moisture has gotten into the system. While some may have good numbers they often get to that lower number quicker with the higher dry bp.

Arguements for all aspects have been made and will here again. Bottom line howerver remains- if you don't boil what you are using you don't need $20qt fluid.

 

But a good makeover for your stock brakes is the SS lines, the metal caliper bushings, and some non-Mini brake pads. I found that this combo (along with some higher end ($12/pint) brake fluid) allowed me to run on a track, but I'm pretty new to track driving, and wasn't braking too deep. If the brake dust from the stock pads bothers you, try EBC Greenstuff. They are kevlar based, don't dust as much, and are very soft on the rotors. If you're very aggressive on braking, they may not be appropriate for you, but like I said, with the bushings, lines and fuild, I didn't have any fade where I had experienced it before on the very same track.

For information on the bushings, look here.

Matt

ps, Todd is much more knowlegable, so if I said anything wrong here, he'll correct me, and go with his input.

 

My borther works for GMDPG in Mesa AZ. His friend at work road races a GM product and they can get any fluid they want. And they use "Ford Mo Co Brake Fluid" Dont ask my why? I just know they do! The only reason I say this is I know he will never ( I hope) look at this site.

Goog Luck.

 

i have used the ATE super blue for a long time. ATE also makes the same product with no blue dye, gold. it's easier when your bleeding your brakes if you go back and forth between the two colors so you know when all the old is out. now that i have the big brakes i'll start using the castrol fluid. it is more expensive but has about 80 more degrees of wet and dry temp. i was bleeding my brakes at the track at least one time a day with the stock calipers, SS lines, very hot pads and super blue.

 

I also use Ate Blue and Typ 200, alternating between flushes... I like it.

Many people in our club that don't autocross or participate in motorsports use Valvoline SynPower - cheap and it's DOT 4. They've had no issues with it...