I replaced my runflats with Toyo ES100s about 5000 miles ago. Last week, the 'flat tire' light came on. I found one tire with pressure six pounds below the others, added air, and drove on.

The light lit again today, and again the same tire is six pounds low. I found a very small nail right at the outside edge of the tire. I was a few blocks from a Mr Tire, so I asked if they could fix it. They told me nail holes at or near the sidewall could not be repaired, that they could only fix holes near the center part of the tire tread.

Is this correct? The nail is very small, and the leak is very slow, if that makes any difference. Please let me know if I have to order a replacement from Tire Rack. If not, where in the DC area should I look for a repair store?

Another question: I ordered W-rated tires, and they shipped Zs for the same price. If I order W again, and they ship W this time, do I have any issues with mixing the speed ratings? I assume I do not, so long as I drive within the W's limits, which is not an issue for me.

Thanks in advance,
Phil

 

well, I ran fix a flat in my tire for several months when this happened to my saturn. It was OK when the tire was on the rear, but when it was time to rotate and it went on the front, I had major vibration issues. I would never recommend this course of action unless you are dirt poor.

I think you might have more issues with wear. The Zs will wear faster, I believe. The Z's also have a head start wearing compared to the new tire, whatever it is. For normal town driving, it's no biggie, but if you regularly run Z's, I'd assume you do more than normal town driving. For any truly aggressive driving, you'd want identical tires all the way around in terms of wear and rating.

 

Thanks, I think I will order the W again. I do not drive nearly aggressively enough to need the Z or the W. I think the runflats were W's and that is why I ordered W replacements last time. Dunno why they sent the more expensive Z instead, but I saw no reason to complain, and did not.

I suspect I could nurse this tire for a long time if I had to, but I don't have to, so I won't. I'd just as soon be safe, thank you.

It is funny though, I have not had a flat tire in a million years, but once I dumped the run flats, it only took 3-4 months to get one.

Thanks for the reply.

Phil

 

Yokohama ES100 - they will a say Z on the sidewall and W in the service description in most sizes.

Questions on Z vs. W vs. Y speed rating?
1/2 the page down is speed ratings

Repairs - really need to be closely inpsected to deem if unrepairable damage was done.


Alex

 

Wow, thanks for the explanation of the speed ratings.

The nail is right on the outside edge of the tire. A local dealership told me holes in that area could not be repaired. True?

I tried to order a replacement tire online last night, but the order did not 'take.' I will wait for your reply before trying to order again.

Phil

 

If the puncture is close to the crown edge, say within 1/2", you may want to purchase a replacement tire. The reason is high speed (H or above) rated tires use what is known as a "crown edge breaker, or wedge", or "nylon breaker strip" to further strengthen the belt package and cap overlays during hard cornering forces. A puncture can rupture or damage this construction, making the tire unsafe even if repaired.

 

Great Picture!

Alex

 

Thanks all. Will purchase a replacement from Tire Rack.

 

Boy, this is an old thread but why start a new one?

I resolved two slow leaks this week which followed repair of nailed tires. Neither were near the side. One was on my MINI and repaired by Discount Tire. The other was on my wife's Saab and repaired by a small independent shop.

The MINI warned me when the pressure was low thanks to the tire pressure monitor. I no longer run runflats but still the monitor is a piece of gold. It would take a couple of weeks of normal driving or a day of sport driving for the light to come on. I'd add air, reset the light, and keep my speed to double digits.

My wife took a different approach. when the Saab started pulling to the right she simply remembered that I recently had rotated the tires so figured I'd screwed up something. She identified the problem once the tire was utterly destroyed.

So I took both tires to Discount tires for dismount and review. The Saab tire went first. It was both patched and plugged (see photos earlier in this thread). However, it was first patched, and then plugged through the patch. I guess the tire tech was literal.

The MINI tire was patched correctly, after it was plugged. However, the person who buffed the inside of the tire buffed through to the steel cord . . . hence the air leak.

The Saab tire was down to 4/32ths so no reason to bother the independent shop's bottom line. The MINI tire was 50% good so Discount Tire has ordered me a new tire gratis.

At MITM last year Yokohama put on a great seminar. They mentioned, with authority, that once a tire has been repaired the speed rating and load rating is kaput. I'm glad I learned that because I've kept the speed down on both cars since the flats. This was good, as both tires were lame after their repairs.

Okay. Part two soon.

 

Part two.

My temporary solution to having 3 summer performace tires on the Saab was to put two winter performance tires on the rear, somewhat early. since I have Cooper stock summer tires for the MINI (175/65?/15) I use for commuting I put two of those on the back and kept two 205/55/16 GS-D3 Goodyears on the front.

The Saab solution is dangerous. All is fine until pushed hard . . . then the signature understeer of the aero snaps quickly to oversteer as the winter tires on the rear fail to grip the warm pavement.

The MINI solution is awesome as the mild understeer just hangs in all the way to the traction limit of the front wheels. With the rear wheels being lighter I get some of the quickness the car has when running the small wheels and tires without reducing cornering speed.

Cool. Got to get new summer tires for the Saab though as it is currently capable of true treachery.