Lug conversion kit
Pilo Stud conv kit
Originally Posted by MiniPilo
If enough people want the stud conversion kits, I can do a group buy on the Pilo Racing Kit. say, 25% off?
http://www.piloracing.com/shop/prodd...gNutKit&cat=18
http://www.piloracing.com/shop/prodd...gNutKit&cat=18
Count me in, I want a set with red cap type A locking set.
Wayne
Originally Posted by Hounddog
Dan,
Count me in, I want a set with red cap type A locking set.
Wayne
Count me in, I want a set with red cap type A locking set.
Wayne
Originally Posted by TWISTER
I'm interested in geeting some feedback from users that have done this mod. Pros and cons needed. For info on the product look here.
I started the method to exhange the studs while on the car, removing 2 bolts on a wheel, then putting some red loctite on a stud, and screw it through the wheel hole into the hub. I took a hex end and tightened the bolts tightly, and torqued the nut down to 80ft/lb.
Very easy process overall and a great mod.
A good tip. After removing the old lug bolt, spray the hole with brakeclean then blow out the hole to make sure everything is dry. This will make sure the loctite Red will hold the stud in the hole. BTW: I think 90 lbs. is a more proper torque value.
Originally Posted by xizor
I'm bumping up this thread because it has some good information about the stud conversion. I purchased 37mm studs from Pilo Racing and installed them with McGard splinedrive lugs/locks that I had from another car. FYI Pilo's are 12x1.5, so if you get seperate lugs, make sure to get the right thread pitch.
I started the method to exhange the studs while on the car, removing 2 bolts on a wheel, then putting some red loctite on a stud, and screw it through the wheel hole into the hub. I took a hex end and tightened the bolts tightly, and torqued the nut down to 80ft/lb.
Very easy process overall and a great mod.
I started the method to exhange the studs while on the car, removing 2 bolts on a wheel, then putting some red loctite on a stud, and screw it through the wheel hole into the hub. I took a hex end and tightened the bolts tightly, and torqued the nut down to 80ft/lb.
Very easy process overall and a great mod.
Is 50mm the whole length of the stud or just the part that sticks out of the hub? Turner has these, http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html..._ID=TWH9950B62. How long are these compared to yours? They will be going on a set of 15" Pro Race 1.2's
I like these Turners, but I don't want them to stick out by 25mm. Are your lugs 17 0r 19mm wide?
I think I'll just go with the BMP studs. In that pic are you using any spacers?
I think they are 19mm long sleeved nuts to fit over the studs (uses 17mm metric wrench)...they cover the exposed studs as seen in my photo...
Wow, old thread! I just have to mention that it was funny coming across Tontobird, a member that does not post here anymore. Tontobird is a good friend of mine and she and I still talk. Last year Michelle raced Spec Miatas in NASA. She raced something like 18 races and ened up as rookie of the year in both NASA mid atlantic and Spec Miata. That's two seperate awards.
Michelle was the person that really got me started with this whole track thing. By the way she still owns two Ss and just had a new Spec Miata built for her for the upcoming 2007 season.
Just thought I'd give here some kudos here.
Michelle was the person that really got me started with this whole track thing. By the way she still owns two Ss and just had a new Spec Miata built for her for the upcoming 2007 season.
Just thought I'd give here some kudos here.
I wanted to buy the Turner set because they seem to be the most durable. But I called Turner about the BMP lugs, and they said theirs are all too long to fit under the factory wheel caps. So now I'm trying to decide between Pilo Racing and ProMini kits. Pilo is MUCH cheaper, which worries me a bit. I autocross the car quite a bit, so I'll be changing the wheels 2-3 times a month from April - October.
I see that Pilo now has a "race version" kit for people that change their wheels frequently (me!). But they don't have an allen head on them.
I'm going to be switching between the heavy 16-inch X-lites and my SSR race wheels. Any advice?
I see that Pilo now has a "race version" kit for people that change their wheels frequently (me!). But they don't have an allen head on them.
I'm going to be switching between the heavy 16-inch X-lites and my SSR race wheels. Any advice?
I wanted to buy the Turner set because they seem to be the most durable. But I called Turner about the BMP lugs, and they said theirs are all too long to fit under the factory wheel caps. So now I'm trying to decide between Pilo Racing and ProMini kits. Pilo is MUCH cheaper, which worries me a bit. I autocross the car quite a bit, so I'll be changing the wheels 2-3 times a month from April - October.
I see that Pilo now has a "race version" kit for people that change their wheels frequently (me!). But they don't have an allen head on them.
I'm going to be switching between the heavy 16-inch X-lites and my SSR race wheels. Any advice?
I see that Pilo now has a "race version" kit for people that change their wheels frequently (me!). But they don't have an allen head on them.
I'm going to be switching between the heavy 16-inch X-lites and my SSR race wheels. Any advice?
These are the one's I'm looking at from ProMini:
http://www.promini.com/product-exec/...arch_model/100
http://www.promini.com/product-exec/...arch_model/100
I just read through this whole thread (man it took me a while) and am now ready to ask my question... I am running 20mm spacers. Am I going to be able to do the stud conversion? (which brand if so would be best.) I do plan on doing AutoX and am running the Brembo Big Brake setup.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
I just read through this whole thread (man it took me a while) and am now ready to ask my question... I am running 20mm spacers. Am I going to be able to do the stud conversion? (which brand if so would be best.) I do plan on doing AutoX and am running the Brembo Big Brake setup.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
This is a great thread
and I just read it start to finish. I do have a couple of questions as I am making this conversion:
1. What is the recommended torque value for the studs?
Someone posted "hand" tight, and others posted 80 to 90 ft/lbs. I would like to hear from those that have not had any issues with the studs backing out and that used Wet Red Loctite.
2. What is the recommended torque for the nuts?
Someone posted 90 ft/lbs and other threads the range has been 100 to 130 ft/lbs.
3. Are studs and nuts available in different thread pitches?
If so, what would be the purpose of shallow thread pitch on lugs?
1. What is the recommended torque value for the studs?
Someone posted "hand" tight, and others posted 80 to 90 ft/lbs. I would like to hear from those that have not had any issues with the studs backing out and that used Wet Red Loctite.
2. What is the recommended torque for the nuts?
Someone posted 90 ft/lbs and other threads the range has been 100 to 130 ft/lbs.
3. Are studs and nuts available in different thread pitches?
If so, what would be the purpose of shallow thread pitch on lugs?
Last edited by JMH; Jul 15, 2007 at 05:18 AM.
you dont need an allen to screw them in. In my opinion depending on how deep the allen holes are, it would probably make the studs weaker. To put them on all you need is 2 nuts for that thread pitch.
Then you put both of them on, and you turn the inside nut counter-clock wise and the outside clockwise basically locking them in(just like a spring perch on a coilover) Then you can tighten the studs.
Then you put both of them on, and you turn the inside nut counter-clock wise and the outside clockwise basically locking them in(just like a spring perch on a coilover) Then you can tighten the studs.




But, I wanted black. These are 50mm with hex head. The nuts are 20mm long/forged/anodised alloy open type.


