Lug conversion kit
Dan, I'm on the brink here...
While I don't track my MCS, frequent tire rotations, and the aesthetics of color matching are my reasons for contemplating this...
I currently have wheel locks, and want to keep the security, but I would want them to be of the same color as the rest (blue in my case). Do you forsee getting different color locks (to match), or is that an unreasonable request/wish?
While I don't track my MCS, frequent tire rotations, and the aesthetics of color matching are my reasons for contemplating this...
I currently have wheel locks, and want to keep the security, but I would want them to be of the same color as the rest (blue in my case). Do you forsee getting different color locks (to match), or is that an unreasonable request/wish?
Originally Posted by MiniPilo
To every one that wants a set, use "LugNuts" on checkout, and you will get 25% off of the lugnut conversion Kit!
I'm trying to order a set of 37mm studs and blue closed type C nuts.
I get-
"Sorry, there was an error processing your request.
There are no methods available for your shipping destination."
I listed a shipping address to Hawaii and want to pay by paypal.
Any suggestions how I can complete my order?
Do I have to log in first?
If you like the product, please leave us a review at https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...php?product=67
as a general rule of thumb, if you have one and a half times the major diameter of the thread fully engaged,that is as much strength as you will get .as an example: if you are installing a 1/2 -20 stud and it gets
.75 full engagement, that is the same strength as two feet! blue loctite if you ever want to remove(thread locker) red if you don't care.
.75 full engagement, that is the same strength as two feet! blue loctite if you ever want to remove(thread locker) red if you don't care.
Originally Posted by Rick-Anderson
I was told by an America's Tire Company mechanic that these studs are extremely dangerous because there are not enough threads to go into the hub. He refused to install them for me and sold me a crappy set of longer chrome bolts that have already began peeling. I feel like returning them and installing the studs myself.
TZ-10 conversion
Has anybody done the Pilo stud conversion for their Exel TZ-10 wheels? I've been reading that the lug hole is fairly narrow and that your normal lug bolts with a socket can scratch the inside of the lug holes. Any help would be great.
Originally Posted by Smooth is Quik
Has anybody done the Pilo stud conversion for their Exel TZ-10 wheels? I've been reading that the lug hole is fairly narrow and that your normal lug bolts with a socket can scratch the inside of the lug holes. Any help would be great.

This will allow install and removal of the lugs with out damaging your wheel, as all lugs are installed and removed with an alan key. This is what I use on my 17" summer wheels.
Well, I haven't been on the forum in a while, but I wanted to chime in. I am in the same boat at RHT3 (post #63) and I think MiniPilo's post #65 may have answered/solved the mystery. I have had 2 of the studs come out on the left front wheel, 2 came out on the right front wheel and 1 came out on the right rear wheel. I change my wheels after autocrossing and I guess the heat from the hard braking has loosened the red loctite. So now those studs are basically 'lug bolts'. Once they all come loose I will go back to traditional lug bolts. I would change those that have come loose, but I don't want to look like some mis-matched mini misfit. It was a great idea and made changing wheels easier (before they started coming loose), but it's a major pain now.
Hard braking producing enough heat to loosen the red loctite seems to defeat the purpose of the loctite - doesn't it?
Later.
Hard braking producing enough heat to loosen the red loctite seems to defeat the purpose of the loctite - doesn't it?
Later.
Well, if you're braking hard enough to generate red loctite melting heat, you might want to go to green loctite.
But if you do, you ought to know that the green stuff is pretty much tantamount to welding the studs in. You shouldn't count on being able to remove them.
But if you do, you ought to know that the green stuff is pretty much tantamount to welding the studs in. You shouldn't count on being able to remove them.
This is the only reason now why I have not made this change. I find this to be a serious matter of concern... Being that my wheel/tire set-up is only 30 pounds, and that I can "hang" it relatively well while getting the first bolt started, this has not been a pressing need for me... and thankfully so. Using Loctite as a precaution is one thing, but as an integral ingredient in keeping something like a wheel in tact is another... at least for me.
Originally Posted by toddtce
As for SCCA, I doubt they'd be smart enogh to know the difference. Don't get me started on SCCA tech....


It took me half an auto-x season to realize my local SCCA chapter was not interested in enforcing the rules for stock classes. I had a lot of fun and made some good MINI friends, but the consistent cheating in my class was enough to run me off for good.
I have found that the red stuff (loctite?) that's preapplied to the studs are no good. I have torques some off while removing my wheels. I've now gone through and applied real "wet" red loctite to all of them.
Originally Posted by jimz68
Hey All,
I've been using the BMP/ProMINI studs and alloy lug nuts for about a year. Used red loctite at the install. Have had no problems with studs backing out.
Jim
I've been using the BMP/ProMINI studs and alloy lug nuts for about a year. Used red loctite at the install. Have had no problems with studs backing out.
Jim
I would tend to think that if the threading characteristics and material used are ideal, backing-out should not be an issue. Maybe the thread depth and pitch angles can use some improvement for a better bite...?





