15x6.5, 4x100, 40 offset. If they are not a hubcentric match what can be done as I already own them?

 

I have the same setup, but Circuit 8 in 38mm offset. The hubcentric rings are not necessary, only convenient. Just support the wheel with your knees to get the lug bolts started, then tighten in a criss cross pattern and torque to spec and it'll be fine.

 

Rota slipstream (replicas of Spoon SW-388 rims) 15x6.5" with offset of +40mm (12 pounds each) will fit MCS with stock suspension fine. With lowering springs it might be close to rubbing depending on which springs you choose to get. Depending on which tires you choose you might be OK.

Rspeed.net does sell the 16x7" slipstreams (13.5 pounds) with 40 offset for $135 each
http://rspeed.net/mini/item.asp?dept...6&prod=405-512

The spoons are known for light weight racing wheels. The Slipstream is not legal for stock class autocross for SCCA because it is too wide at 6.5" but it should be OK and light for street use.

What tires do you have mounted? You could go with 205/50-15 (more performance) or 195/55-15 (more comfort).

I highly recommend you use hubcentric rings if available for safety reasons. Talk to the seller of those rims or to tirerack.com

 

I bought them as track wheels and have mounted used Kumho V700s in size 205.50.15. I run DSP in Solo2 events (finished 3rd out of 10 with stock 17 in. and ES100s last event). Yes, I know I'll never be really competitive in that class, but this is for fun! At least I'll give the Spec Miata that always wins DSP more of a run for his money.

 

What mods put you in DSP?
Those who have pulley mods are in SM.
MC that have suspension/wheel mods are in STS while MCS with similar are in STX.

 

CAI, Exhaust, Alta swaybar, and now the 15" wheels w/R-compound tires. The CAI is the primary culprit. I could swap the panel filter with the CAI every time I run, but I'm too lazy. Even in DSP I still beat many Miatas. And, I should say my driving skills are NOT the best.

 

They fit great! MUCH MUCH better looking the the 16" stockers too!

Opps forgot to mention though that mine are 16x7/40mm but the 15's should fit over the brakes fine.

 

Someone is slightly cheating in GS if those are really 16X7 Not that it makes a big difference, and not that it's anything I'd ever protest, but you know...

 

For AutoX in SM.
Is there a better setup than 15x7 et38 or 35 wheels and 205/50-15 R compounds?

 

Tomslick,

Yes, for SCCA Solo II SM class there are many options.
For rims the 15x7 or wider size with et about 35 to 38mm is fine.
Since 15x7" is easy to find then stick with that due to lower cost.
Tire size makes the difference. While 205/50-15 is easy to find, you can get Hoosiers and Kumhos in 225/45-15.

Talk to Alex@tirerack about this option and read all the posts in the SCCA solo II forums about competitive wheel setups for SM and other classes that allow any wheels.

Is it truely worth changing from the 205/50 to 225/45? Maybe if you are national class but probably not if you are middle of SM class in your local area. Might be worth less than a half second difference.

 

Minihune, thanks for addressing the 205/50 vs 225/45 issue. That was pretty much what I had finally boiled it down to. Your response helped greatly. 205/50's will be just fine for me, less expensive, more choices, and much easier to get. Thanks.

 

minihune,

"I highly recommend you use hubcentric rings if available for safety reasons. "
Safety reason's? I don't understand please explain.

 

From
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/centerb.htm
Quote:
The centerbore of a wheel is the size of the machined hole on the back of the wheel that centers the wheel properly on the hub of the car. This hole is machined to exactly match the hub so the wheels are precisely positioned, minimizing the chance of a vibration. With a hubcentric wheel, the lug hardware will not be supporting the weight of the vehicle, all they really do is press the wheel against the hub of the car. Some wheels use high quality, forged centering rings that lock into place in the back of the wheel. This is an acceptable alternative.

If you have non-hubcentric (lugcentric) wheels, they should be torqued correctly while the vehicle is still off of the ground so they center properly. The weight of the vehicle can push the wheel off-center slightly while you're tightening them down if left on the ground.
--------------------

So if you have wheels that are hubcentric then use the rings which are cheap like $3 or $4 each. They help to allow a perfectly aligned fit of the wheel on the center of the hub so there is no guesswork which reduces vibration. Would you want the wheel put on the hub in a less than centered way? With the hubcentric ring in place the weight of the vehicle rests on the ring which is wedged between the hub and the rim. The lugs tighten down the rim to the hub but do not bear much weight. If you have no ring then the rim is allowed to be positioned with quite a bit of play until you tighten down the lug nuts. In this case the nuts are supporting the weight of the car and if alignment is not in the center for both the rim and the hub then you risk vibration.

 

Hehe forgot to mention i actually run STX, i have yet to change my class on my number plate.

 

sweet wheels.... I have a set from my integra that i want to use on my MINI. very cool...

 

I got the 15/7 slipstreams from 18racing. They have a 40 offset and a 56.1 hub, which is perfect for the MINI, no? I bought them because I wouldn't need the rings. If you find out what the hub is on the slipstreams you have, you'll know. If it isn't 56.1, I'd think that you would need a ring to keep everything centered.

mb