Hi all,
I am preparing my car(2011 LCI Cooper S) for a track day on Apr 16.
(Mission raceway, Vancouver, Canada)


It's a 1.4 mile(2km) course, relatively small in size.

I've been hearing some positive feedbacks about the capacity of factory brake set up of our minis,, so I was planning to do only fluid flush with motul rbf 600 or dot 5.1 stuff this time.

But some of my friends/a shop guy saying that I need to have the steel brake line at least. (and semi-track pads to prevent fading)

Anyone tried thier Cooper/Cooper S on track days with stock brake rotors/pads/hoses and just fresh fluid?

Would my brake duct help the system to endure the heat?
(R56 LCIs coming with front brake ducts)

If the track was reaaly a high speed one with many hard braking points and if I had more time, ,I would have buy the brake lines,, but here in Canada,,, it's hard to find the place have them in stock,, and it's kinda tight to order them and get them before the track day. (just about a week left..)

Just give me any ideas what should I expect at the track with stock brakes.

Thanx in advance!!

 

We've done 18 track days in both the Cooper and the Cooper-S, all on stock brakes. Up until the last one, the brakes have done fine, though a set of pads only tends to last about 3 track days, with whatever mileage you put on in between. There's also both of us driving, so we're putting more strain on things than your average single driver.

With the last track day, we did go right through a set of new pads (down to 4mm), so I'm starting to wonder if we do need to get track oriented pads. If this is your first time, I wouldn't worry about it.

Also I'm pretty sure BMW specifically recommend against DOT 5.1 brake fluid, they recommend DOT 4. I'd definitely get a flush, we have for most of our track days.

 

Your car is sufficiently new enough that I wouldn't worry about the SS brake lines. At the minimum, I'd recommend getting a set of HAWK HP Plus for at least the fronts (They take most of the beating) and bleed the brakes with a liter of ATE Typ200. If you really get the DE "bug", then get the SS lines, ducts, etc.
The secret to not cooking your brakes is to use them as efficiently as possible over the shortest possible distance. In other words, use the brakes over the shortest distance to slow your car down to the speed that will allow you to make it thru the turn, no more, no less. Have fun, be safe!

 

i run track days on my bmw R60/6 with drum brakes.....they fade away quickly so i just have to roll off the power early and use the engine to slow down....

as soon as the brakes recover, charge on!

i bet you don't have a problem, but if you do, just do as i do for a couple corners til the brakes recover

scott

 

i have done at least 4 track days with stock pads on clubman s 09 and 1 track day with my new coupe s at sebring no problem.sebring is a longer track with 17 turns.the hawk hps pads i will try next,as you progress you will be harder on your brakes and may want to upgrade but for now i think your fine.

 

Don't use DOT 5 brake fluid. Silicone based fluids are a no-no...

Motul is my favorite, I've also used ATE, but Motul holds up better. It's also twice as expensive. For your first time out, either would be fine, but it's a MUST to get new fluid in.

IMHO, I'd definitely get new pads for the front--carbotechs are nice, very gentle on the rotors. You'll cook the stock pads eventually, and more likely than not, get pad deposits on the rotors. Not much fun--rotors will shudder afterwards. The track is a blast, but it's also not without risk, and brakes really aren't something I'd try to "get by" with. If you're ok with changing pads yourself, get a set for the track, then switch back for the street. You're rotors will love you for it.

I wouldn't bother with SS lines, not worth it--yet.

 

You'll be fine you first few track days. Then get track pads and more Motul.

 

Thank you so much for the greatly helpful replies!
Yeah,, Now I can see that our minis are holding so nicely under track level braking condition.
Happy to know that I don't need to hurry on getting SS lines haha.
My car has 10000 miles on it... 80% or more front brake pads left..
But I am still afraid of cooking the pads and not getting the right brake force.
Will consider getting HAWK HP + in this week.

I also don't want to go with silicon based dot5, but thinkin about save my already purchased 3 bottles of RBF600, and use Motul Dot5.1 for the flush this time.
(And use RBF later or for my wife's GTI)

Thank you again all!!!

 

Don't use the 5.1 EVER. It can permanently gum up the system at worst, and be incredibly difficult to completely flush out at best. You can flush with anything but that--heck, even 3 is better than 5 in a MINI.

The RBF600 will be just fine. You have three bottles; one is all you need for a complete flush (two is easier if you use a pressure bleeder, but you can do it with one).

Motul will pick up water over time, so it's not a great "daily driver" fluid, but it's great for the track. If you want to completely flush the system out, get some good 3, or 4 and flush it out, but don't put 5 in there.

 

Motul 5.1 should be fine

Guys, let's not confuse the numbers. stock is 3/4, Silicone(BAD!!!) is 5 and 5.1 is synthetic and good!

Normally i run ATE Superblue

 

3, 4, and 5.1 all have the same chemistry. Using 5.1 in a system that was previously using a 3 or 4 is NOT a problem.

I'll never understand why the DOT didn't label the 5.1 classification as a 6 instead. Making it 5.1 continues to create confusion with 5.0 which is a different animal entirely.

 

Yep, you're right--I've just always avoided 5 in general, because of that--with my luck I'd eventually put the wrong one in. 5.1 is fine, anything with silicone, (5.0) isn't. I've always lumped the two together, and avoid them both out of habit. Like you suggested, it would be nice if they would pick an entirely different numbering scheme.

 

Hey all I am taking my 2015 R60 out. I only have stock stuff on there now. I am thinking of doing a blue with ATE 200 DOT 4 Blue but am not sure about pads. I already drive my car hard and will surely push it on track day.

Should I get the hawks hps on front and rear?

 

NO! Those are not a track day pad.
If you are going to push it get a track pad.

 

I ran the HPS pads and thought them terrible. Less bite than the stock pads. I was running them with Centric/Stoptech slotted rotors. I then switched to the HP Plus pads. Wow!, what a difference. They are excellent for both street average track use. The only downside is that they often squeal and screech but that doesn't bother me.

Oh, and don't run the stock pads on the track. You'll burn them up in no time.

The brake fluid you've picked out is fine. If you want to do more, SS lines. And if the later Mini's are like the earlier ones, there are rubber bushings used between the two halves of the rear calipers. There are aftermarket metal replacements which are highly recommended.

Note that though the ad copy for the Plus pads talks about lower initial bite, it's still better than stock. I find them excellent all around pads for my '06 JCW cabriolet. And I don't have to change pads as I can run them both on the street and on the track.

 

Any recommendation if not hawks? Other guys said HP plus?

 

Where can I buy HP plus? Do you have a place online you prefer?

 

Heck, just Google them. Amazon even carries them as well as the slotted rotors from Centric/Stoptech.

I do recommend going to the Hawk website and confirming which PN is the one for your car. In fact, I recommend calling them and getting the number straight from the horses mouth. Sometimes there are little subtleties that can make a difference.

After you get the proper PN, just google that number in Google's product search. Don't forget to check Amazon.

The PN should look something like this: HB660N.661 Of course, the exact numbers will be different but that's the format they use.

 

OK I found the front set for HP Plus but can't find rear. Hawk doesn't appear to have a phone number to call. I have a 2015 R60 S. Thanks for the info

 

At the bottom of their contact page:

800-542-0972

They're in Ohio.

 

Try this link:

http://hawkbrakesdirect.com/p-363-ha...l2=&submodel3=

It says the rears are HB574N.636

But call Hawk anyway to confirm.

And if that's the correct number, Amazon has them for 94 dollars.

 

Thank you Martin that is very helpful. i think I will just call them. The number you gave below and that one supplier gave me, all the sites say they don't fit the rear of my model of mini. Interesting! The fronts fit according to all the sites but not the rear of the same model and type. I'm sure Hawk will sort me out in the morning. Thanks again. This will be my first race day in the mini. Doing all day lessons and timed track etc. Should be SOOO much fun.

 

"This will be my first race day in the mini. Doing all day lessons and timed track etc. Should be SOOO much fun."
Yes, it is fun but suggest that you not consider your time on track as "racing". Best to concentrate on being smooth and consistent, always looking where you want to go, not where you are. Also, please be aware that, in all probability, once your wheels set foot on a track, your car is not covered by your insurance policy, especially where timed laps are involved.

 

We carry the HP+ pads for all MINIs
Here are the R60 pads, but they haven't offered them for the rear on the R60 as it isn't a popular track car
https://www.waymotorworks.com/hawk-h...pads-clon.html

We do have the Yellow stuff front and rear which is a track pad
https://www.waymotorworks.com/ebc-ye....html?&cat=789

If you want to get more serious we have the GLoc pads which are awesome and out do those at the track
https://www.waymotorworks.com/g-loc-...paceman-s.html

And for fluid I recommend the Motul as it has a higher boiling point than the ATE and other fluids
https://www.waymotorworks.com/motul-...ake-fluid.html

 

I hear you. I have only done higher speed go carting at this point and I wonder if the concepts for turns are the same. Didn't know that about insurance. Ahh!!!