I'm going to be doing tome track driving this season but also this is my daily driver. After talking to a few people I think I'm going to go with SS lines, pads, and dot4 fluid; I would love to get drilled or slotted rotors but that’s way out of budget; Any suggestions? I'm on a tight budget but it seems like one of the most important things to get if I plan on taking the car on the track 1 or 2 times a month.

 

You're on the right track. You don't need drilled or slotted rotors to run a MINI on the track. The stock rotors will be up to the task, but I would measure the thickness after a track day to make sure they're not below the factory minimum thickness. You can't go wrong with SS lines and DOT4 fluid, but the pad choice is where you have a lot of different pad compounds to choose from.

 

I had my brakes serviced just over a week ago under my warranty so I was going to take those pads off and keep them just in case as a backup set. I was looking into the EBC Red Stuff brakes seem like a good bang for the buck and low dust is a plus. does fluid make a difference? I see so many different kinds of DOT4 fluids from $20 to $70, and lines I'm not sure where to get either lol. Also will I need to change my sensors?

 

If you are going to track 1 to 2 times a month, you will eat through stock rotors. You can get pads that will work on the track but the rotors have to deal with a lot of heat and abrasive pads.

In the long run it will be cheaper to get larger rotors/calipers that will also use larger pads because you will be replacing rotors and pads less frequently. You might also want to think about brake ducts to help cool the brakes, especially if you stay with stock sized rotors.
Brake Ducts:
http://www.waymotorworks.com/jcw-bra...5-r56-r57.html
Big Brake Kit:
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wilwood...-kit-12.2.html

Also the Big Brake Kits are usually much lighter than the stock brakes.

 

Brake fluid is the most important as stock fluid will boil. I suggest the Motul brake fliud.

 

Quikmni- I really wanted the brake ducts but I do not have the JCW front bumper just the S, and now with the new front mount I don't think it will work anyway. I really like the big break kits but they are a little pricey

Way- Thanks for that! I will defiantly be getting some fluid soon and the red stuff pads I think too, the dealer said my rotors are fine and above spec no need for replacement so ill probably save that for next year

 

You can't have enough brake at the track. I am running a JCW so I already have big brakes and rotors. Even with Stock pads the MINI did great at the track. Stock tires and my first couple track days at Thunder Hill in CA they did great. Running 2:22 to 2:25 and not standing on the brakes they were great. I stepped up to Sticky Nitto NT01's so I upgraded the brakes to Carbotech X10 Front and X8 rears. WOW talk about stopping power! But they are loud and it sounds like the pads are gone and it is metal on metal. If they warm up they are better but very loud on the street. These pads took me 2:18 to 2:20 in cold weather 50's with the Nitto's in the dry. Last couple of sessions I was looking to drop time. I was 9/10th to 10/10ths on a couple of the laps. Plan this time was to carry tons of speed. 1 gear higher through must of the corners. More like a HP V-8 car. Surprisingly the little MINI pulled it off and the Turbo had plenty of pull coming out in higher gear with more speed. Also the main goal was late braking and stand on them. You get in a race car with a professional
and that the first thing you will notice. They punish and I mean punish the brakes. Check out the Video of Ian Stewart drivign Jans Revelotion MINI at Thunder Hill. Melted the rotors and I could see and smell burning metal.
Now I dropped my times to 2:16-2:17 very consistantly. It was fast and you felt on the edge. If it was warmer she would have liked it more. I pulled in after the session and Jan was hanging out near my pit. He had been watching my lines. Before I got out of the car he said "you need better brake pads". They were very hot and the pads had glazed the rotors. I hate to go to X-12's as not sure about running those onthe street. Jan has brakes comig out he wants me try so I am getting some.
I sold my stock front backups last time at the track. Guy cooked his and my pads got him throough the weekend. If I went to X-12 they would most like me tack only. Ita pain but the pads are pretty easy to change on the MINI.

 

Man, keep it simple if you're just starting out at the track. Your stock setup with improved DOT4 fluid, SS lines, and EBC red stuff will keep you safe. You're going to have a great time!

 

I went completely OEM for my first 2 track runs, before the rotors were warped (oh yeah, two trips to the Dragon also, teehee). Agree with 'Shane, keep it simple - like you, mine is a daily-D also.
Down the road, when time comes to replace, check out these forums - not the Stealerships!

 

Took my R57S to the track a few months ago (going again in two weeks). Intermediate run group. 20 min sessions. Zero fade. Love them!

Setup:
Motul RBF600 brake fluid
Front brakes - EBC Yellow Stuff (had good results w/these padson my previous track car)
Rear brakes - OEM

In order to save some wear on the yellowstuffs, I was planning to swap back the OEM front pads after the previous track day, but I got lazy and have been driving with the yellowstuffs every day for the past few months. Anyway, they are great for the daily driving too. Perhaps a tiny bit less initial bite but that's about it...No complaints whatsoever.

 

I think that's all well stated. For the noob on the track a set of disposable rotors and proper pads are probably fine while you learn the ropes.

In time you'll find that bigger brakes are not so much about shaving 20ft off your braking zone as they are about durability and duty cycle. You can work the smaller parts at 95% and burn up things or run larger parts at 60% with less aggressive pads (you have more leverage), at lower temps, longer and without fade issues all day long.

Greater efficiency, lower duty cycle; however you wish to view it.

 

I'm in the same situation as you. I will do about a dozen HPDE's a year, and my MINI is my DD. I was using stock brakes until recently when I upgraded my pads, fluid, and got braided lines.

1. pads. you need something that can take more heat. This is very helpful: http://www.essexparts.com/learning-c...ose-brake-pads

The perfect street/ track pad does not exist. A street pad will not be able to handle the heat from the aggressive braking on a track. A track pad will have more dust and noise than a street pad. Some okay compromises are Yellowstuff pads and Stoptech street performance pads. There are surely more, but these two came up on my radar most, and I got the stop tech. Haven't used them on the track, but they are certainly adequate on the street.

2. fluid; you want something with a higher boiling point than stock. brakes get hot. brake fluid gets hot. when it boils, the brakes don't work. enough said.

3. braided brake lines are optional, but decrease the compliance of the stock brake lines. Maybe better brake feel.

4. An important aspect is trying to keep the brakes cool. MINIs are good in this respect in that they are not heavy, don't have high HP (not too much demand on the brakes), and they tend to keep a lot of momentum through the turns. You might want to look into ducting the brakes, too. 2011 and after have stock ducts.

5. Your first track days, you can do fine on stock brakes. when you get better and brake more aggressively, you may need to upgrade. It's better to upgrade early and have too much brake and heat tolerance than upgrade late.

Hope this helps.

 

When I first started track days, I ran stock pads, rotors and fluid. As I got "faster", I had a pucker moment at the Dragon, brake fade. Changed fluid and went with EBC Reds with original OEM rotors. I love this set-up. MC has 79k on original rotors. Next brake job it will need new rotors with EBC Reds and fluid.

 

http://www.detroittuned.com/shop/?productID=479
http://www.waymotorworks.com/ebc-red-brake-package-r55-r56-r57-cooper-s.html + fluid

Both seem like a good way to go inexpensively i like the Detroit package mainly because the looks of the slotted rotors is a nice touch. i think i may just do them both like previously stated above it will be cheaper in the long run

 

For track driving, the brake fluid is by far the most important component of the brake system. Motul has one of the highest boiling points but Ate Gold or Blue is a very good fluid as well - slightly lower boiling point but you'd only have to change it once or twice a year at most. Solid rotors work perfectly well, no reason to mess with that. The pads are the second most important component - Hawk HP+ is a good street/track compromise if you don't mind the squealing on the street.

 

Would I be able to do just fluid and pads like EBC Red Stuff now? And if I feel I need more down the road as I learn the car I can upgrade the rotors and lines? The dealer did say I have about half the life left on my rotors they should be good for a few track day’s right?

 

Do NOT use different pads with the same rotors. Properly bedded in brakes transfers a layer of the pad material to the rotor surface. Switch pads and you can sometimes end up with eratic or poorly performing brakes. You are far, far better off buying a set of rotors and swapping them out along with the pads. When you take them off the car, make sure you mark the pads and rotors so you can put them back in the exact same locations.

A set of Centric Powerslot rotors doesn't cost that much and it's super easy to swap them out. I'd just leave the rears stock for now.

 

Well it’s a good thing I didn’t do that and through $180 in the garbage. Thanks for the heads up. Just wondering how the dealership replaces just the pads then when they did a brake job? Is it because they are using the same type of brake? I have also seen a post by way in a different thread and he recommended someone the EBC Red brakes to swap out for just the pads?

 

So much to learn. Wow.

So here is my question. My 4 pads are ready to be changed and my rear rotors are shot. Most of my driving will be on normal roads but I may try auto cross a few times. I saw a good deal on a set of stop techs. Complete set with fluid for $500. (not big brakes obviously). Should I just replace those rear rotors and get nice pads, or just change them all?

 

I fount these too it looks like it has something for everyone the only thing I don't like is it seems the rotors are just a stock replacement but it's worth looking into

http://www.fastmini.net/combokits.html

 

The ad says Centric or equivilant. I'll bet you don't get Centric if you order it. Centric makes good stuff and you can even order them direct from Amazon as long as you know the proper part number.

A set of StopTechs are, most definately big brakes and would be my choice for aftermarket. I presume that the 500 dollars is just for pads and fluid from some shop? What does that 500 buy you? Does it include rotors?

I would go with the Centric Powerslot rotors. And I'm currently running Hawk HPS pads and am quite happy with them. And if you're thinking of only replacing the rear rotors, measure the fronts and see if they're getting close to minimum thickness. You may want to replace those as well as a fresh set of pads may take them down well below minimum by the time the pads have worn some.

FYI: Generally speaking, high performance rotors are only slotted, not drilled. But if you're not actually racing the car, if you like the look of the drilled, then it should not be a problem.

 

Centric and ST branded rotors remain one in the same. Centric owning both ST as well as Power Slot and some others is simply the oe, import, supplier to those brands. You won't truly get a "better rotor" from one or the other...maybe some nice paint or arguably a nicer cross hatch pattern on them.

A rotor change alone however regardless of brand, won't make for "better braking" in the perceived sense. Leverage is leverage and 294MM is the same diameter no matter the brand or even the surface finish. Holes, slots, dimples, j hooks or whatever can enhance pad wear (faster) and help vent a gaseous layer but don't expect to cut 20ft off your stopping distance.

Most complete brake systems don't make claims of distance reduction but rather efficiency. The do the same thing on the 10th stop under duress as they did the first stop. Larger rotors and proper pad adapt to the conditions and demands thus lowering the duty cycle of the parts and prolonging the live/durability.

 

I decided to go with the SP performance slotted rotors, EBC Red stuff pads, ss lines and the ATE super blue fluid (so I do not need to change it as often) When everything comes in I'll let you all know how it works out. Now I gota figure out how do install all of this lol

 

Why do you think you won't have to change the fluid as often as before?

Remember, the pistons in the rear calipers need to be rotated as they're being pushed back in.

 

I know i will need to as much as stock but i was compareing it to the Motul fluid that iv read a few places you need to change 2 times a year, from what i have been reading the Super Blue is about the same changes as stock?