I have been looking at the brake upgrade options for the Cooper.. I am looking for drilled/slotted rotors, to be used with the factory calipers and pads.. trying not to blow 2K on brakes..

minimania (see link below) has these for front and rear, slotted and drilled.. Will they help stopping power, do any of you guys have these rotors and can give me a opinion??

http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/NMB2002/InvDetail.cfm

 

>>I have been looking at the brake upgrade options for the Cooper.. I am looking for drilled/slotted rotors, to be used with the factory calipers and pads.. trying not to blow 2K on brakes..
>>
>>minimania (see link below) has these for front and rear, slotted and drilled.. Will they help stopping power, do any of you guys have these rotors and can give me a opinion??

Davo99,
Aloha and welcome to NAM,
I did my own brake upgrade of pads, rotors, SS brake lines and upgraded brake fluid.
I'll prioritize what I would recommend.
1. Brake pads. Think of what you are using the MINI for? Street only, some track or autocross, some driving school?
For street then Mintex Redbox or EBC green pads are OK. The Mintex Red perform well on the street, cost the least, cut down on brake dust, and wear well. EBC green cost more, cut down brake dust alot but will squeak. Neither is that good on the track. For the track Ferodo DS2500 in the front and rear would be good but these are not the best pads for the street and they are expensive. Take your pick.
2. Rotors-I would stick to Powerslot rotors that are only slotted and not drilled (increases risk for cracking even if cast with holes). Also see Stage 1 brake upgrade from Webbmotorsport.com
3. Brake fluid- doesn't have to cost that much- $9 to 12 for enough to change the fluid so the boiling point is higher than the stock fluid which tends to boil with track use- thus causing brake fade. ATE super blue or Motul.
4. Stainless steel brake lines- Goodridge Stainless steel brake lines are durable and made for the MINI. You could leave the standard rubber lines in to save money, the feel is a little softer but OK.

Labor to do all these upgrades is several hundred $$$. Pick carefully.

For items check
http://www.helix13.com/html/products/brakes.htm
http://www.webbmotorsports.com/suspension.php
especially the stage 1 brake upgrade kits.

 

I like em I have them front and rear with EBC redstuff...no fade, ZERO...little dust. Still waiting for Goodridge to make post March 03 brake lines though. Here you go...






>>
>>I have been looking at the brake upgrade options for the Cooper.. I am looking for drilled/slotted rotors, to be used with the factory calipers and pads.. trying not to blow 2K on brakes..
>>
>>minimania (see link below) has these for front and rear, slotted and drilled.. Will they help stopping power, do any of you guys have these rotors and can give me a opinion??
>>
>>http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/NMB2002/InvDetail.cfm
>>
>>


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hi if you have to much time on your hands&have a drill press drill your own.
did my 3000 mish. about 6yr,s ago& my honda cbx [bike] last year. used cobalt bits &cutting oil.find a pattern that will repeat exactly. i used pan lids for a curved pattern. make a template of the disc&a center punch to spot the holes. if you want
to you can counter-sink for looks&wear. just go slow. gives a person great personal
s
atifaction. had the car up to 160 mph. smooth as silk. same with bike no bad vibs.

doug

 

I have asked this same question about doing drilling - to alex@tirerack and Randy Webb and the absolute reply from both was that they do not recommend it due to the high risk of stress cracks developing between drilled holes over time so you can do anything you want and if the rotors are heated and stressed you'd better be watching them very carefully for cracks which are all too common.

If you wish to avoid that problem then stick to powerslot rotors and you will save yourself the added expense of labor or time and effort of installing the rotors twice.

Your choice on what to do. Your results may vary by the way you drive and your circumstances.

 

If you want improved street braking, do not use factory pads with the drilled/slotted. Your friction surface area is reduced, and you will not notice any improvement in braking. You may even see a loss of braking grip. I have the drilled/slotted with factory pads, so I know first hand. I will be getting better pads in the spring...

 

>>If you want improved street braking, do not use factory pads with the drilled/slotted. Your friction surface area is reduced, and you will not notice any improvement in braking. You may even see a loss of braking grip. I have the drilled/slotted with factory pads, so I know first hand. I will be getting better pads in the spring...

I have mintex redbox pads front and back with zimmerman cross drilled rotors front and back and my street braking is just fine, improved and no complaints at all. Less brake dust than stock and no squeaking. It is correct that friction surface area is reduced although the holes create a little rougher edge to catch the brake pads. I got the drilled rotors because they were much less expensive but if I had to do it over again I'd go for powerslot rotors (just don't overheat them on the track or you will wear off the nice rust resistant finish, under normal street use they are fine).

 

Thanks all... I am moving forward with the drilled and slotted rotors from Mania, with the stainless brake lines and federo 2500 pads.. thanks for your comments..


P.S. Silver, your wheels look hot... I like the caliper paint job..

DAVO