Anyone out there using EBC Greenstuff. Bedded in using Randy's advice and now have 600+ miles on them and they are screeching louder than a Hendirix Marshall on ten! An thoughts?

 

sounds like you were a wimp when bedding them in

Find your closest stoplight, and MASH the brakes to burn off the film of crap you've developed by being too easy on 'em

Good luck,
Ryan

 

Beam me up Scotty! The klingons are preparing to MASH. Is it ok if I close my wimpy eyes and pray while I burn off the karmic brake crud? Just humor.

Thanks for the boot in the brake pad!

I'll be sure to post back with a graphic report of how I deftly tell the patrolman "but sir, but sir my mini list made me do it!"

Thanks & MOTOR ON

 

glad you picked up on my silliness

I like the EBC Green pads, they're great for a daily-driver/non-tracked MINI because they're (supposed to be) relatively quiet and minimal dusting.

Cheers!

 

As an alternative I just put in Mintex Red brake pads front and rear and they work fine, create much less brake dust and don't make any noise from the get go. They are good primarily for street use. Rough cost for the front and rear pairs about $60.

 

Thanks for the names of 2 types of brake pads that do not produce much dust.

I'm getting white wheels and dust will be a problem.

and wadrion - did riding the brakes stop the screaming ?

 

>>Anyone out there using EBC Greenstuff. Bedded in using Randy's advice and now have 600+ miles on them and they are screeching louder than a Hendirix Marshall on ten! An thoughts?

-------

Had the same issue, after 400+ miles the pads began to screech. Took it to my local brake guy. The rotors were glazed over - roughed-up on a lathe with sand paper. Screech gone. Still gone after, 2,500+ miles.
(Also, added anti-seize compound.)

 

mine starting squeaking 1 week after i put them on and havent stopped since...it's driving me nuts. i started another thread on the issue, didnt know that this one existed...

 

Were your rotors cut before new pads installed?

How did you bed them in?

Alex

 

No problems with mine....Even Auto-X with them last weekend and they worked fine. Next is slot/drill rotors install.

 

>>Were your rotors cut before new pads installed?

I installed the Mintex red pads with new Zimmerman cross drilled rotors front and rear and there were never any squeaks. The brakes work just fine.

>>How did you bed them in?
I never really did anything to bed them in. No problems after 300 miles and no sounds. Stopping power is great.
Is bedding something for only certain brake pads? EBC green vs red? Or for track pads mostly?

 

My Green Stuffs squeaked still after 2K miles - only on light/gentle braking.
I had the "Anti Squeal Kit" fitted (basically rubber pads to dampen the sound, put on the back of the pads) and now they are silent.

 

>>Were your rotors cut before new pads installed?
>>
>>How did you bed them in?
>>
>>Alex

alex - pm'd you a few days ago....no response yet...

 

as I explained earlier, Pm is the slowest way to get ahold of me, Email me if its urgent. I anwser boards, and direct emails much quicker.

Alex

 

I put the Greenstuffs on my MCS when it had about 800 miles on the odometer. I was light on the brakes for the next 300 miles as the instructions indicated and they started squealing almost immediately when the brakes were applied softly.

Now at 1500 miles, they squeal like crazy. I took them off any added anti-squeal compound (a red glue like substance) to the back of the outside pad. It helped for about 15 seconds. And now it continues to drive me nuts. (when I took them off the green paint was worn away at the places around the piston ring and where it makes contact with the outside caliper... any clues here?)

The 'less dust' doesn't seem to balance with the annoying squeal.

Anyone have a solution to suggest before I switch back to the OEM pads?

 

>>Anyone have a solution to suggest before I switch back to the OEM pads?

Get your rotors turned, take 220 grit wet dry sandpaper and cut the glaze on the pad surface. then
5 stops from 20-5 mph - soft stops
5 stops from 30-10 mph - firm street stops, think slowing for a cop
5 stops from 60-15 mph - The hardest braking you can do w/o locking up (threshold braking)

By stop 8 or so the pads will smell like crap, and be smoking. Its ok!

Then procede to drive 10 minutes give or take w/o touching the brakes, letting them cool.

For the remainig 250 miles be very gentle on your brakes - all soft stops unless otherwise demanded

The 1st steps are burnishing the new pads
The 2nd steps are creating your transfer film!

Your on your way to smooth effctive SILENT operation

Alex

 

thanks! I'll give it a try....

Really don't want to go back to the OEMs!

-Ryan

 

Do I really need to get the rotors turned with only 1500 miles on the car?
I already have about 700 miles on these Greenstuffs.... What do you think?

 

Do you suggest using an anti-squeal on the back of the pads?

Or something similar?

Or is it best to go bare???

 

>>Do you suggest using an anti-squeal on the back of the pads?

It should allready be there.

>>Or is it best to go bare???
Use anti sieze where the pad slides in the caliper cage

YES turning the rotors is 100% vital to getting noise free results.

Alex

 

If the squeak is only on one rotor (my current situation), can only the one rotor be turned, or would there be some reason that you couldn't do only the one...

Also, what's a fair price for rotor turning?

 

Allways operation on brake systems by axel set!

$15-20 ea is fair.

Carquest here will turn, and acid wash for $10 ea!

Alex

 

Hey Alex,

What's the purpose of turning in this case? Is it a preemptive action?

I have always found that a brake squeal is the pad and caliper "talking" to each other not the pad and rotor.

Are your recommendations for just the EBC pads or for OEM also?

TIA, by the way the tires are great!

 

>>I have always found that a brake squeal is the pad and caliper "talking" to each other not the pad and rotor.
>>

Its for the purpose of creating a new clean transfer film, keeping the firepath quiet.

ALex

 

Thanks Alex, I think?

I guess we're talking about the same thing, removing any trace of burnishing or glaze left behind from the older pads to allow the newer ones to bed into virgin metal, sort-a-speak. I guess our only difference is how to accomplish this.

Not trying to be argumentative but:

The only time I would turn a rotor would be if they were badly scored, warped or suffered from thickness variation. Indications would be a shudder or a vibration when stopping. But this is one of those procedures where the cure might make you sicker then the disease! Turning removes material, which makes them thinner, which can cause warping, which requires turning…..and the process continues until they are so thin they no longer meet specs and must be replaced.

Interesting twist to the discussion, I googled disc brake, then searched within for firepath. Results came up either a Tirerack web page talking about Baer Braking Systems or Baer Braking itself. I then googled disc brakes and turning rotors and the first result was a Mustang site with the headline:

Baer Brakes advises against turning disc brake rotors because you compromise the structural integrity of the rotor. In ……..

IMHO, I'll stay with a gentle sanding to remove glazing and replace the rotor if I see excessive scoring.