Lifetime Custom DME Tuning for your MINI
For SaleMiscellaneous
Jan 24, 2024, 04:59 PM | Replies: 31 | Views: 2648
-
Price
$600
- Location Miami, FL, 33133, USA
- Condition New
Description:
In a galaxy far far away... once upon a time I had my own German-focused (Porsche, Benz, BMW, Audi, VW) performance shop just outside NYC which I ran for just over a decade. We primarily planned, built and tuned high-horsepower Porsches for PCA club members - think 500-800hp gutted, roll-caged 911s for the track. Ultimately I was forced to sell it when I broke off my engagement at the time and was personally crushed by the situation and surrounding circumstances. Fast forward to 2024: I am ready to return to the game 
As part of the launch of a new car club here in Miami called Culture Car Club, I am OFFERING AN UNHEARD OF DEAL to jump start my new community and stage a return to the tuning/performance business: The offer will be limited to the first SIX (6) people and I will provide LIFETIME custom tuning of their vehicle. There are some minor restrictions to this so it isn't abused, please contact me for details.
I will tune your car on nearly any of the major tuning platforms (please confirm your tuning platform or piggyback ECU with me first) for as long as you have a car registered with this purchase. This is perfect for anyone building a project car and wants to take advantage of all the parts they are throwing on the car without going broke spending money on dyno days and repeated custom tuning sessions.
Purchase includes:
- LIFETIME DME/ECU tuning of your vehicle
- 1 or 2 brand new knock sensors, depending on what your vehicle requires
- Wiring harness that provides plug-and-play access for tuning tools & dyno days
This opportunity will never be offered again, ever. Get it while it's hot fellas and ladies, questions welcome. You can follow us on Instagram @culturecarclub
Last edited by F5666; Jan 26, 2024 at 07:33 AM.
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 148
Likes: 58
From: Florida
sup man , nice to have a local mini tuner around, i have 2 warehouses full of minis and parts here in Miami, lets do something in a week or 2 , i have a few clients that would love to join the fun, ill PM you my #
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 148
Likes: 58
From: Florida
Thanks bro! Happy to be here. Sounds like a plan!
Trending Topics
his f56 has 400hp
Last edited by mikehks; Jan 26, 2024 at 07:17 PM.
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 148
Likes: 58
From: Florida
and don't take this wrong but adriancl who most of us whove been around , we use Adrian for our tuning..
I personally seen him take a Dinan tuned mini , just TUNING and no other changes the car made 15hp and like 18tq MORE than the dinan tune AND it ran better and SAFER too...
maybe post some befor any after dyno's of your tunes and let us know more about your history or tuning...
You tune just mini ? Or is this a recent thing you've gotten into with the mini but been a long time tuner ? Fill us in man...
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 148
Likes: 58
From: Florida
First off, thank you so much for breaking the silence and sharing this valuable feedback with me, honestly I had no idea. I come from a world of custom fabrication and re-engineering so the value on this forum is typically low for me and too superficial in terms of technical discussion only.
To respond, $250 for lifetime adjustments: is that to say you can continue to build the car with new hardware, turbos, etc essentially evolving the state of the car and your tuner will retune for the additional parts and changes?? Or does that mean tweaking the work already done to fine tune it with an identical hardware configuration? If the former, that is a pretty amazing deal and doesn't value the tuners built up expertise and experience. Curious what that includes.
Maybe I am am way off but tuning safely and properly means you are using a knock monitor otherwise you are missing a large portion of gains and potentially missing danger points also. If you really are doing things properly, you use a plex.
I respect that you know a tuner and have comfort with them, no pushback there.
I used to own a small 4 bay tuning shop outside NYC for many years, my primary customer were PCA members track prepping and maintaining track day 911s (think 500-800hp roll caged 911s of various flavors. But we were a German specialist, so VW, Audi, Porsche, Benz and of course BMW. 75% track customers, 25% street performance. I started building engines and cars at 19 (turning 49 next month) in mom's garage and moved up from there, with a short stint with NASA and SCCA licenses.
This is my first time with MINI, but if you know tuning, an engine is an engine man. You tune for + output w/o knock plus other considerations too like auto tranny (if exists), cooling, etc. Yes there are idiosyncrasies to each but the basic goal is the same: tune for greatest output in the absence of knock for a particular fuel and using a monitor helps you identify when you begin to push to far for a certain set of conditions (ambient, boost, fuel, timing, etc).... how you adjust that and "ship it" to the customer is subjective. The thing some people call safe is overprotective, others call safe something that is actually more laxed than what some would be comfortable if they knew what it all meant.
So my question back to you (or the tuner) is - what is your exact definition of safe and how is that expressed empirically? When did you detect knock in your tuning and HOW did you detect its presence. What did you back off that mark (in numbers) and what kind of margin did you leave the customer to label that "safe". Were those conditions you tuned typical in the life of the car or does it experience varying atmospheric conditions like elevation changes, fueling changes (think mixing E85 & 93 at the pumps as an example), ambient temp/moisture, load, etc.
I have tuned many engines across German marks. But there is no "secret" to a BMW MINI B48 vs a Porsche Boxer 6cyl when tuning for output - it just goes back to the numbers (and more importantly how are you getting those numbers... is it reliable, is it consistent, is it high quality. Sure the ECU or tuning software gives you all of that, but if your tuning correctly that means you are using knock monitoring to let you know when you are in dangerous land, how good is that hardware and signal? It matters. Also, tuning an engine should be done bespoke per engine, OTS tunes or canned tunes that worked on another B48 might not be the best or the method to most power for your engine, its wear levels, your geolocation, your driving habits, etc etc. This means each tune should really be done "from scratch" on each engine. That takes a minute and is not a "flash and forget" affair.
SO TO SUM UP: 1) I am not pooping on Adrian or anyone who tunes here or anywhere 2) I am not looking down on anyone 3) I am just speaking my truth about what I know about this subject, so you get a glimpse this isn't my first time. These are also the things I consider when I am making my own tunes. This is my first time offering this service to the public like this though, so that much I am unfamiliar with. 4) I am very visible: I work with a local DIY shop here in Miami called Get Lifted which is run by a Benz Master Mechanic (one of 16 in the world who are ALLOWED to work on McLaren SLRs) + just launched a new car club that does away with the foolishness behavior we read about in the papers called Culture Car Club + I will be offering performance mechanical work and newly engineered parts out of Get Lifted under a new brand called Esse Werks while I have been attending a ton of events recently. This has been years in the making and now I am in the stage of the plan where I am brining it all public-facing. I have also been on this forum for years since before the pandemic but started really posting in the last couple years, along with a build thread about my project car (F5666) here, on miniF56.com, Instagram. I also have several corporate sponsors for the car project now, another sign I am not going anywhere. I am only just beginning marketing of this stuff.
Wish I had the dyno sheets and materials from the shop (2000s) but the whole reason I lost that shop was a breakup with my ex-fiance who I was monetarily partners with and forced the sale out of spite. The only remnants I have from the shop is old polaroids and printed pics somewhere in mom's attic + a single bay's worth of Snapon tools. I honestly did not plan on getting back into the industry but life seems to be pushing me in this direction from several angles so I am here for it and just putting myself out there to see what sticks. I have already helped other community members who have become friends (Sam, Gabriel) who have a JCW Countryman & full bolt on GP3, respectively. I will be tuning their cars very soon and already have begun to tune my own ECU - my full bolt on 2018 S with custom mapping and a stock turbo with a few trick treatments is hanging with the tuned, full bolt on GP3 on E30, if that tells you anything.
Whatever the outcome, I am here for it and the community. I just noticed a different reaction (or lack of) here vs other car communities and wanted to dive into what that was about
To respond, $250 for lifetime adjustments: is that to say you can continue to build the car with new hardware, turbos, etc essentially evolving the state of the car and your tuner will retune for the additional parts and changes?? Or does that mean tweaking the work already done to fine tune it with an identical hardware configuration? If the former, that is a pretty amazing deal and doesn't value the tuners built up expertise and experience. Curious what that includes.
Maybe I am am way off but tuning safely and properly means you are using a knock monitor otherwise you are missing a large portion of gains and potentially missing danger points also. If you really are doing things properly, you use a plex.
I respect that you know a tuner and have comfort with them, no pushback there.
I used to own a small 4 bay tuning shop outside NYC for many years, my primary customer were PCA members track prepping and maintaining track day 911s (think 500-800hp roll caged 911s of various flavors. But we were a German specialist, so VW, Audi, Porsche, Benz and of course BMW. 75% track customers, 25% street performance. I started building engines and cars at 19 (turning 49 next month) in mom's garage and moved up from there, with a short stint with NASA and SCCA licenses.
This is my first time with MINI, but if you know tuning, an engine is an engine man. You tune for + output w/o knock plus other considerations too like auto tranny (if exists), cooling, etc. Yes there are idiosyncrasies to each but the basic goal is the same: tune for greatest output in the absence of knock for a particular fuel and using a monitor helps you identify when you begin to push to far for a certain set of conditions (ambient, boost, fuel, timing, etc).... how you adjust that and "ship it" to the customer is subjective. The thing some people call safe is overprotective, others call safe something that is actually more laxed than what some would be comfortable if they knew what it all meant.
So my question back to you (or the tuner) is - what is your exact definition of safe and how is that expressed empirically? When did you detect knock in your tuning and HOW did you detect its presence. What did you back off that mark (in numbers) and what kind of margin did you leave the customer to label that "safe". Were those conditions you tuned typical in the life of the car or does it experience varying atmospheric conditions like elevation changes, fueling changes (think mixing E85 & 93 at the pumps as an example), ambient temp/moisture, load, etc.
I have tuned many engines across German marks. But there is no "secret" to a BMW MINI B48 vs a Porsche Boxer 6cyl when tuning for output - it just goes back to the numbers (and more importantly how are you getting those numbers... is it reliable, is it consistent, is it high quality. Sure the ECU or tuning software gives you all of that, but if your tuning correctly that means you are using knock monitoring to let you know when you are in dangerous land, how good is that hardware and signal? It matters. Also, tuning an engine should be done bespoke per engine, OTS tunes or canned tunes that worked on another B48 might not be the best or the method to most power for your engine, its wear levels, your geolocation, your driving habits, etc etc. This means each tune should really be done "from scratch" on each engine. That takes a minute and is not a "flash and forget" affair.
SO TO SUM UP: 1) I am not pooping on Adrian or anyone who tunes here or anywhere 2) I am not looking down on anyone 3) I am just speaking my truth about what I know about this subject, so you get a glimpse this isn't my first time. These are also the things I consider when I am making my own tunes. This is my first time offering this service to the public like this though, so that much I am unfamiliar with. 4) I am very visible: I work with a local DIY shop here in Miami called Get Lifted which is run by a Benz Master Mechanic (one of 16 in the world who are ALLOWED to work on McLaren SLRs) + just launched a new car club that does away with the foolishness behavior we read about in the papers called Culture Car Club + I will be offering performance mechanical work and newly engineered parts out of Get Lifted under a new brand called Esse Werks while I have been attending a ton of events recently. This has been years in the making and now I am in the stage of the plan where I am brining it all public-facing. I have also been on this forum for years since before the pandemic but started really posting in the last couple years, along with a build thread about my project car (F5666) here, on miniF56.com, Instagram. I also have several corporate sponsors for the car project now, another sign I am not going anywhere. I am only just beginning marketing of this stuff.
Wish I had the dyno sheets and materials from the shop (2000s) but the whole reason I lost that shop was a breakup with my ex-fiance who I was monetarily partners with and forced the sale out of spite. The only remnants I have from the shop is old polaroids and printed pics somewhere in mom's attic + a single bay's worth of Snapon tools. I honestly did not plan on getting back into the industry but life seems to be pushing me in this direction from several angles so I am here for it and just putting myself out there to see what sticks. I have already helped other community members who have become friends (Sam, Gabriel) who have a JCW Countryman & full bolt on GP3, respectively. I will be tuning their cars very soon and already have begun to tune my own ECU - my full bolt on 2018 S with custom mapping and a stock turbo with a few trick treatments is hanging with the tuned, full bolt on GP3 on E30, if that tells you anything.
Whatever the outcome, I am here for it and the community. I just noticed a different reaction (or lack of) here vs other car communities and wanted to dive into what that was about
First off, thank you so much for breaking the silence and sharing this valuable feedback with me, honestly I had no idea. I come from a world of custom fabrication and re-engineering so the value on this forum is typically low for me and too superficial in terms of technical discussion only.
To respond, $250 for lifetime adjustments: is that to say you can continue to build the car with new hardware, turbos, etc essentially evolving the state of the car and your tuner will retune for the additional parts and changes?? Or does that mean tweaking the work already done to fine tune it with an identical hardware configuration? If the former, that is a pretty amazing deal and doesn't value the tuners built up expertise and experience. Curious what that includes.
Maybe I am am way off but tuning safely and properly means you are using a knock monitor otherwise you are missing a large portion of gains and potentially missing danger points also. If you really are doing things properly, you use a plex.
I respect that you know a tuner and have comfort with them, no pushback there.
I used to own a small 4 bay tuning shop outside NYC for many years, my primary customer were PCA members track prepping and maintaining track day 911s (think 500-800hp roll caged 911s of various flavors. But we were a German specialist, so VW, Audi, Porsche, Benz and of course BMW. 75% track customers, 25% street performance. I started building engines and cars at 19 (turning 49 next month) in mom's garage and moved up from there, with a short stint with NASA and SCCA licenses.
This is my first time with MINI, but if you know tuning, an engine is an engine man. You tune for + output w/o knock plus other considerations too like auto tranny (if exists), cooling, etc. Yes there are idiosyncrasies to each but the basic goal is the same: tune for greatest output in the absence of knock for a particular fuel and using a monitor helps you identify when you begin to push to far for a certain set of conditions (ambient, boost, fuel, timing, etc).... how you adjust that and "ship it" to the customer is subjective. The thing some people call safe is overprotective, others call safe something that is actually more laxed than what some would be comfortable if they knew what it all meant.
So my question back to you (or the tuner) is - what is your exact definition of safe and how is that expressed empirically? When did you detect knock in your tuning and HOW did you detect its presence. What did you back off that mark (in numbers) and what kind of margin did you leave the customer to label that "safe". Were those conditions you tuned typical in the life of the car or does it experience varying atmospheric conditions like elevation changes, fueling changes (think mixing E85 & 93 at the pumps as an example), ambient temp/moisture, load, etc.
I have tuned many engines across German marks. But there is no "secret" to a BMW MINI B48 vs a Porsche Boxer 6cyl when tuning for output - it just goes back to the numbers (and more importantly how are you getting those numbers... is it reliable, is it consistent, is it high quality. Sure the ECU or tuning software gives you all of that, but if your tuning correctly that means you are using knock monitoring to let you know when you are in dangerous land, how good is that hardware and signal? It matters. Also, tuning an engine should be done bespoke per engine, OTS tunes or canned tunes that worked on another B48 might not be the best or the method to most power for your engine, its wear levels, your geolocation, your driving habits, etc etc. This means each tune should really be done "from scratch" on each engine. That takes a minute and is not a "flash and forget" affair.
SO TO SUM UP: 1) I am not pooping on Adrian or anyone who tunes here or anywhere 2) I am not looking down on anyone 3) I am just speaking my truth about what I know about this subject, so you get a glimpse this isn't my first time. These are also the things I consider when I am making my own tunes. This is my first time offering this service to the public like this though, so that much I am unfamiliar with. 4) I am very visible: I work with a local DIY shop here in Miami called Get Lifted which is run by a Benz Master Mechanic (one of 16 in the world who are ALLOWED to work on McLaren SLRs) + just launched a new car club that does away with the foolishness behavior we read about in the papers called Culture Car Club + I will be offering performance mechanical work and newly engineered parts out of Get Lifted under a new brand called Esse Werks while I have been attending a ton of events recently. This has been years in the making and now I am in the stage of the plan where I am brining it all public-facing. I have also been on this forum for years since before the pandemic but started really posting in the last couple years, along with a build thread about my project car (F5666) here, on miniF56.com, Instagram. I also have several corporate sponsors for the car project now, another sign I am not going anywhere. I am only just beginning marketing of this stuff.
Wish I had the dyno sheets and materials from the shop (2000s) but the whole reason I lost that shop was a breakup with my ex-fiance who I was monetarily partners with and forced the sale out of spite. The only remnants I have from the shop is old polaroids and printed pics somewhere in mom's attic + a single bay's worth of Snapon tools. I honestly did not plan on getting back into the industry but life seems to be pushing me in this direction from several angles so I am here for it and just putting myself out there to see what sticks. I have already helped other community members who have become friends (Sam, Gabriel) who have a JCW Countryman & full bolt on GP3, respectively. I will be tuning their cars very soon and already have begun to tune my own ECU - my full bolt on 2018 S with custom mapping and a stock turbo with a few trick treatments is hanging with the tuned, full bolt on GP3 on E30, if that tells you anything.
Whatever the outcome, I am here for it and the community. I just noticed a different reaction (or lack of) here vs other car communities and wanted to dive into what that was about
To respond, $250 for lifetime adjustments: is that to say you can continue to build the car with new hardware, turbos, etc essentially evolving the state of the car and your tuner will retune for the additional parts and changes?? Or does that mean tweaking the work already done to fine tune it with an identical hardware configuration? If the former, that is a pretty amazing deal and doesn't value the tuners built up expertise and experience. Curious what that includes.
Maybe I am am way off but tuning safely and properly means you are using a knock monitor otherwise you are missing a large portion of gains and potentially missing danger points also. If you really are doing things properly, you use a plex.
I respect that you know a tuner and have comfort with them, no pushback there.
I used to own a small 4 bay tuning shop outside NYC for many years, my primary customer were PCA members track prepping and maintaining track day 911s (think 500-800hp roll caged 911s of various flavors. But we were a German specialist, so VW, Audi, Porsche, Benz and of course BMW. 75% track customers, 25% street performance. I started building engines and cars at 19 (turning 49 next month) in mom's garage and moved up from there, with a short stint with NASA and SCCA licenses.
This is my first time with MINI, but if you know tuning, an engine is an engine man. You tune for + output w/o knock plus other considerations too like auto tranny (if exists), cooling, etc. Yes there are idiosyncrasies to each but the basic goal is the same: tune for greatest output in the absence of knock for a particular fuel and using a monitor helps you identify when you begin to push to far for a certain set of conditions (ambient, boost, fuel, timing, etc).... how you adjust that and "ship it" to the customer is subjective. The thing some people call safe is overprotective, others call safe something that is actually more laxed than what some would be comfortable if they knew what it all meant.
So my question back to you (or the tuner) is - what is your exact definition of safe and how is that expressed empirically? When did you detect knock in your tuning and HOW did you detect its presence. What did you back off that mark (in numbers) and what kind of margin did you leave the customer to label that "safe". Were those conditions you tuned typical in the life of the car or does it experience varying atmospheric conditions like elevation changes, fueling changes (think mixing E85 & 93 at the pumps as an example), ambient temp/moisture, load, etc.
I have tuned many engines across German marks. But there is no "secret" to a BMW MINI B48 vs a Porsche Boxer 6cyl when tuning for output - it just goes back to the numbers (and more importantly how are you getting those numbers... is it reliable, is it consistent, is it high quality. Sure the ECU or tuning software gives you all of that, but if your tuning correctly that means you are using knock monitoring to let you know when you are in dangerous land, how good is that hardware and signal? It matters. Also, tuning an engine should be done bespoke per engine, OTS tunes or canned tunes that worked on another B48 might not be the best or the method to most power for your engine, its wear levels, your geolocation, your driving habits, etc etc. This means each tune should really be done "from scratch" on each engine. That takes a minute and is not a "flash and forget" affair.
SO TO SUM UP: 1) I am not pooping on Adrian or anyone who tunes here or anywhere 2) I am not looking down on anyone 3) I am just speaking my truth about what I know about this subject, so you get a glimpse this isn't my first time. These are also the things I consider when I am making my own tunes. This is my first time offering this service to the public like this though, so that much I am unfamiliar with. 4) I am very visible: I work with a local DIY shop here in Miami called Get Lifted which is run by a Benz Master Mechanic (one of 16 in the world who are ALLOWED to work on McLaren SLRs) + just launched a new car club that does away with the foolishness behavior we read about in the papers called Culture Car Club + I will be offering performance mechanical work and newly engineered parts out of Get Lifted under a new brand called Esse Werks while I have been attending a ton of events recently. This has been years in the making and now I am in the stage of the plan where I am brining it all public-facing. I have also been on this forum for years since before the pandemic but started really posting in the last couple years, along with a build thread about my project car (F5666) here, on miniF56.com, Instagram. I also have several corporate sponsors for the car project now, another sign I am not going anywhere. I am only just beginning marketing of this stuff.
Wish I had the dyno sheets and materials from the shop (2000s) but the whole reason I lost that shop was a breakup with my ex-fiance who I was monetarily partners with and forced the sale out of spite. The only remnants I have from the shop is old polaroids and printed pics somewhere in mom's attic + a single bay's worth of Snapon tools. I honestly did not plan on getting back into the industry but life seems to be pushing me in this direction from several angles so I am here for it and just putting myself out there to see what sticks. I have already helped other community members who have become friends (Sam, Gabriel) who have a JCW Countryman & full bolt on GP3, respectively. I will be tuning their cars very soon and already have begun to tune my own ECU - my full bolt on 2018 S with custom mapping and a stock turbo with a few trick treatments is hanging with the tuned, full bolt on GP3 on E30, if that tells you anything.
Whatever the outcome, I am here for it and the community. I just noticed a different reaction (or lack of) here vs other car communities and wanted to dive into what that was about
if you watch that video I linked of me doing a 5-120mph pull.. watch the afr , they are perfect all throughout Rev range and speed.. my engine is a big valve head , ns1 cam 550cc injectors, tvs900 on 55mm pulley , 2% crank , ported ic horns and ported sneedspeed Manifold , obx421 catless headers and Milian exhaust, dt bpv , upgraded cooling and adjusted for also...I mean , there's not much left oem on my car and yet it drives smoother, faster , and better than oem... o YEA !!! IT WILL PASS EMISSIONS TOO STILL !!
you'd have to pm adriancl and he can tell you could fill you in..unfortunately I know very little about tuning..
and his tuning will allows for alterations of the custom tune. If you wanna tune a different car or swapped your engine and need an entire new base tune , you'd have to pay him for the time in that then..
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 148
Likes: 58
From: Florida
Appreciate your quick response Adam and it all makes sense.
Sounds like an epic tune, but AFR is only one aspect of a good tune and the air fuel mixture says little about pre-ignition and detonation (collectively "detonation").
When I first conceived this offer, I imagined owners who wanted to build their cars and go through the process but didn't want to spend all the money on custom tuning, retuning, revisiting the tuner/dyno etc and being charged each time. Having said that, I don't do road tuning, just too imperfect. My remote and IRL tuning is done on a dyno, using wideband O2 + knock sensors
Anything less is flying blind depending on what you lack: no WB 02 and you are guessing on AFR, no WB knock and you are guessing on detonation/pre-ignition. Maybe a better way to describe it is you will get indications of those things without the Wideband sensors BUT it's the difference between looking through frosted glasses vs crystal clear glasses. I only tune using crystal clear glasses. I want my feedback loops to be in perfect focus so I can deliver the best and a truly safe result that I can stand behind/warrant. My customer's cars are not my test bed.... my years of experience have been and if I really want to know and it's related, I use my own vehicles. In a few cases customers asked me to do testing using their vehicle - in which case a knock monitor is CRITICAL. To give a glimpse, step 1 is to artificially induce LIGHT knock to tune your ear to the knock sound of that engine configuration, then you begin tuning the maps while listening for that sound as you make adjustments.
A related example: B4x engines have a low speed pre-ignition issue that shows up intermittently. This is due to deposits collecting on and around the tip of the DI injector in our very high compression turbo motors. Those deposits are a result of fuel quality and maintenance. The tune from factory (lets start there) is good, we know this, but over time based on whether you do specific maintenance, cleanings and use tier 1 fuels determine how much if any pre-ignition you experience. And of course this varies from engine to engine. One safe tune on another engine might not be safe on your engine if you have more of these deposits or your state of clean in the combustion chamber.
Sounds like an epic tune, but AFR is only one aspect of a good tune and the air fuel mixture says little about pre-ignition and detonation (collectively "detonation").
When I first conceived this offer, I imagined owners who wanted to build their cars and go through the process but didn't want to spend all the money on custom tuning, retuning, revisiting the tuner/dyno etc and being charged each time. Having said that, I don't do road tuning, just too imperfect. My remote and IRL tuning is done on a dyno, using wideband O2 + knock sensors
Anything less is flying blind depending on what you lack: no WB 02 and you are guessing on AFR, no WB knock and you are guessing on detonation/pre-ignition. Maybe a better way to describe it is you will get indications of those things without the Wideband sensors BUT it's the difference between looking through frosted glasses vs crystal clear glasses. I only tune using crystal clear glasses. I want my feedback loops to be in perfect focus so I can deliver the best and a truly safe result that I can stand behind/warrant. My customer's cars are not my test bed.... my years of experience have been and if I really want to know and it's related, I use my own vehicles. In a few cases customers asked me to do testing using their vehicle - in which case a knock monitor is CRITICAL. To give a glimpse, step 1 is to artificially induce LIGHT knock to tune your ear to the knock sound of that engine configuration, then you begin tuning the maps while listening for that sound as you make adjustments.A related example: B4x engines have a low speed pre-ignition issue that shows up intermittently. This is due to deposits collecting on and around the tip of the DI injector in our very high compression turbo motors. Those deposits are a result of fuel quality and maintenance. The tune from factory (lets start there) is good, we know this, but over time based on whether you do specific maintenance, cleanings and use tier 1 fuels determine how much if any pre-ignition you experience. And of course this varies from engine to engine. One safe tune on another engine might not be safe on your engine if you have more of these deposits or your state of clean in the combustion chamber.
Appreciate your quick response Adam and it all makes sense.
Sounds like an epic tune, but AFR is only one aspect of a good tune and the air fuel mixture says little about pre-ignition and detonation (collectively "detonation").
When I first conceived this offer, I imagined owners who wanted to build their cars and go through the process but didn't want to spend all the money on custom tuning, retuning, revisiting the tuner/dyno etc and being charged each time. Having said that, I don't do road tuning, just too imperfect. My remote and IRL tuning is done on a dyno, using wideband O2 + knock sensors Anything less is flying blind depending on what you lack: no WB 02 and you are guessing on AFR, no WB knock and you are guessing on detonation/pre-ignition. Maybe a better way to describe it is you will get indications of those things without the Wideband sensors BUT it's the difference between looking through frosted glasses vs crystal clear glasses. I only tune using crystal clear glasses. I want my feedback loops to be in perfect focus so I can deliver the best and a truly safe result that I can stand behind/warrant. My customer's cars are not my test bed.... my years of experience have been and if I really want to know and it's related, I use my own vehicles. In a few cases customers asked me to do testing using their vehicle - in which case a knock monitor is CRITICAL. To give a glimpse, step 1 is to artificially induce LIGHT knock to tune your ear to the knock sound of that engine configuration, then you begin tuning the maps while listening for that sound as you make adjustments.
A related example: B4x engines have a low speed pre-ignition issue that shows up intermittently. This is due to deposits collecting on and around the tip of the DI injector in our very high compression turbo motors. Those deposits are a result of fuel quality and maintenance. The tune from factory (lets start there) is good, we know this, but over time based on whether you do specific maintenance, cleanings and use tier 1 fuels determine how much if any pre-ignition you experience. And of course this varies from engine to engine. One safe tune on another engine might not be safe on your engine if you have more of these deposits or your state of clean in the combustion chamber.
Sounds like an epic tune, but AFR is only one aspect of a good tune and the air fuel mixture says little about pre-ignition and detonation (collectively "detonation").
When I first conceived this offer, I imagined owners who wanted to build their cars and go through the process but didn't want to spend all the money on custom tuning, retuning, revisiting the tuner/dyno etc and being charged each time. Having said that, I don't do road tuning, just too imperfect. My remote and IRL tuning is done on a dyno, using wideband O2 + knock sensors
Anything less is flying blind depending on what you lack: no WB 02 and you are guessing on AFR, no WB knock and you are guessing on detonation/pre-ignition. Maybe a better way to describe it is you will get indications of those things without the Wideband sensors BUT it's the difference between looking through frosted glasses vs crystal clear glasses. I only tune using crystal clear glasses. I want my feedback loops to be in perfect focus so I can deliver the best and a truly safe result that I can stand behind/warrant. My customer's cars are not my test bed.... my years of experience have been and if I really want to know and it's related, I use my own vehicles. In a few cases customers asked me to do testing using their vehicle - in which case a knock monitor is CRITICAL. To give a glimpse, step 1 is to artificially induce LIGHT knock to tune your ear to the knock sound of that engine configuration, then you begin tuning the maps while listening for that sound as you make adjustments.A related example: B4x engines have a low speed pre-ignition issue that shows up intermittently. This is due to deposits collecting on and around the tip of the DI injector in our very high compression turbo motors. Those deposits are a result of fuel quality and maintenance. The tune from factory (lets start there) is good, we know this, but over time based on whether you do specific maintenance, cleanings and use tier 1 fuels determine how much if any pre-ignition you experience. And of course this varies from engine to engine. One safe tune on another engine might not be safe on your engine if you have more of these deposits or your state of clean in the combustion chamber.
I'd never have my car tuned any other way , how else do you know exactly what to correct and where if you haven't viewed datag logs ect ?
you can view knock, afr, iat,aat ect all that durring road tuning ,live data viewing. Logs only tell so much but to view what the car is doing in real time , can't be more precise than that..
A dyno tune works well at full throttle on a dyno but that never works well for street driven cars.. every variable can be accounted for during road tuning , nothing is over looked unless you want to..
I like to know my car is tuned for how I drive and where I drive.
Last edited by MiniManAdam; Feb 19, 2024 at 12:31 PM.
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Fair. I think I should clarify and qualify what I meant by road tuning. When most end users talk about road tuning it generally means there is no scientific approach to it with tools and feedback loops in the way you tune in a controlled environment. I have all my feedback loops when tuning to produce the best result, not just one that passes muster.
What you are saying is true and will also do that but it’s harder… it typically needs to be in-person so you can connect and monitor things in a way not possible remotely (plug things in, experience by seat of pants/eyes/ears, etc)
I guess what I am trying to communicate here is I can’t tell you how many tuners use “shortcuts” to the result. They skip certain tools, processes etc that I personally would never do b/c without everything I just cannot deliver the best possible product… and for those people/cases that don’t use everything - they can’t deliver their best product either.
What you are saying is true and will also do that but it’s harder… it typically needs to be in-person so you can connect and monitor things in a way not possible remotely (plug things in, experience by seat of pants/eyes/ears, etc)
I guess what I am trying to communicate here is I can’t tell you how many tuners use “shortcuts” to the result. They skip certain tools, processes etc that I personally would never do b/c without everything I just cannot deliver the best possible product… and for those people/cases that don’t use everything - they can’t deliver their best product either.