Bumping this - open to offers, especially if taking everything! Camber plates, fresh struts, bump stops and dust covers should give someone a nice suspension refresh

 

"breaking the head off of both of the strut pinch bolts"

Could you elaborate on this statement? Can you include add'l close-up pictures of the damaged areas?

 

@bahman Not directly related to these parts; possible I used the wrong terminology? The strut pinch bolt that pinches the knuckle that the bottom of the strut sits in and is rusted to hell. Fairly common for rusty old mini's such as mine to break off when attempting to remove.

Now the only way I can release the pinch and change the front struts is by drilling the bolts (or maybe heating up and hitting with a punch and a sledgehammer), and replacing the bolt with a larger one with a locking nut on the opposite side, as the threads previously in the knuckle will be a distant memory. Given that the struts/springs are not broken, just old and worn, I've since been avoiding the undertaking

 

the bolt is threaded in on one end and knocking it out with a punch isn't going to happen.
I just went through this with mine.
If YOU NEED to release the strut from the knuckle with the broken bolt you can get rite next to the strut mount with a circular blade and cut through the bolt and the spread the knuckle mount open abit with a wedge and then the strut will then be free..
drilling it is possible but is going to be time consuming and tedious. Then the non threaded end gets so corroded it literally makes threads and seizes in..

 

Thank you for clarification.

You can drill out the pinch bolt and use a Time-sert in the threaded part of the knuckle. This allows the use of new stock-size pinch bolts. Cutting the rusted pinch bolt can free up the strut if the strut is not rusted/fused to the housing, but you still will have to drill out the two bolt halves left in the knuckle. Time-set kits are available at Amazon for around $25 for a specific bolt pitch/diameter combination. For drilling, I highly recommend using a Tungsten Carbide drill bit. Cuts much faster and cleaner, and is durable. Best to get a US-made bit from Snap-on or other professional suppliers.

To avoid a repeat experience down the road, you should apply copper-based anti-seize compound to the entire length of the new bolt.

 

Thanks! Might have to try that. Did you end up tapping new threads in for a bolt, or putting in a longer bolt with a locking nut on the back side?

 

The first time I removed the pinch bolt I snapped them. Since then I've used heat and never had an issue.

I used a longer bolt with a nut on the other end and it worked well. Drilling was a huge PITA and I would prefer to never have to do that again. I have a spare passenger knuckle with good threads if that would make your life easier.

 

Hey! Sent a PM a few days ago on the IE plates. I understand you might want to keep it all together, but I’m interested in just the plates if you want to make a deal.

I’m going with Koni FSD so unfortunately I don’t need the struts themselves.

Taylor

 

Hi,

I know this is an older post but do you still have these items?

 

Tried sending a PM. Please let me know if it didn't come through. Seems to be some issues happening currently.