Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 01:47 PM
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herbie hind's Avatar
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rotors

hey guys ; i'm looking for slotted rotors for under 100.00 anyone know where?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 01:53 PM
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if you post under wheels tires and brakes you may get more answers - but not likely at that price. Expect to pay at least that much for each rotor.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 01:58 PM
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From: Tejas
Our slotted rotors are on the way to us, ETA is 2-3 weeks before we'll have them in our hands, though... We'll be offering fronts for $199 for a full set of front and rear ($119 for front sets, $109 for rear sets).

Front:



Rear:

 
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 02:16 PM
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Nice looking units. I see you have stayed away from the drilled pieces. Good move
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by txwerks
Our slotted rotors are on the way to us, ETA is 2-3 weeks before we'll have them in our hands, though... We'll be offering fronts for $199 for a full set of front and rear ($119 for front sets, $109 for rear sets).

Front:



Rear:

i can do two to three wks. pls. pm me when you get em. that's 199.00 for front and rear yeah? sold.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 02:59 PM
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been lookin' at what you put for prices and 228.00 is still an awsome price . p.m. pls.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by trackster
Nice looking units. I see you have stayed away from the drilled pieces. Good move
Yes, we are not interested in selling drilled rotors, for all of the usual reasons (first and foremost, we want you guys to be safe!)
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 05:11 PM
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Interesting slotted pattern. Mostly I have seen half moon designs. Can you share the reason for this design?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 07:12 PM
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The slot design combines effective pad wiping, expedient manufacturing, and, admittedly, good looks.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 07:16 PM
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Will the TSW rotors last longer than the stock units, i.e., are they harder? It seems like the stock ones wear out quickly compared to the rotors on other cars I've had - though admittedly those other cars weren't as sporty as my MINI.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 09:20 PM
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They are not harder - but they do have the highest carbon content of any rotor out there AND will outperform ANY OEM replacement rotor. Longevity will have a lot to do with what pad compound you select and what you put them through!

And yes, $199 is the price for a full set...
 
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 06:58 AM
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Questions

are the fronts directional (the vanes in the rotor cast such that there is a left and right rotor)?
With those slots, how much surface area do you loose?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 08:25 AM
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the slotts will negate any lost surface area due to ecellent gas dissipation and heat removal . plus the pad debre will be removed . i'm gonna try these.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 02:08 PM
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From: Tehachapi, CA
Originally Posted by roadodendron
are the fronts directional (the vanes in the rotor cast such that there is a left and right rotor)?
With those slots, how much surface area do you loose?
Strictly speaking, the slots add surface area - but I know what you're really asking. The amount of planar surface area does go down a bit, but as it turns out, this is a very weak parameter of performance. The swept area of the pad on the rotor is a much stronger parameter, and of course this doesn't change. The benefits of the slots during repeated cycles of threshold breaking greatly outweigh the costs.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 10:27 PM
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From: Tejas
Originally Posted by roadodendron
are the fronts directional (the vanes in the rotor cast such that there is a left and right rotor)?
With those slots, how much surface area do you loose?
Dr. Mike answered the question about surface area... The fronts are not directional, and retain the same straight vanes as OEM.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 03:04 PM
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Texas Speedwerks - are you going to also have have better-than-OEM pads to go with these rotors?

If not, whose pads would you recommend that would match up well with your rotors for a street machine that may see one performance event a year?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by drmike@txwerks.com
Yes, we are not interested in selling drilled rotors, for all of the usual reasons (first and foremost, we want you guys to be safe!)
???? Edjamucate me. What's the problem with drilled rotors? I've heard that they aren't as effective as slotted, but are there other issues?
 
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 70spop
???? Edjamucate me. What's the problem with drilled rotors? I've heard that they aren't as effective as slotted, but are there other issues?
The biggest problem relates to weakening of the rotor by drilling it. This is a hotly debated subject, mind you, so I'm presenting my opinion only, not a general consensus.

Drilled holes in a rotor present stress concentrations. When a drilled rotor is subjected to cyclic, intense frictional heat, the surface experiences stresses which go beyond the yield stress of the metal (especially considering the strength at hot temperature). This results in compressive failures on the surface of the rotor (visible as heat checking after the rotor cools). Holes in the rotor tend to concentrate this stress by up to a factor of three, guaranteeing that a small crack will begin at the edge of a hole.

For racing rotors, this is sometimes acceptable, usually because the rotors are used up faster than the cracks grow, and because the holes are provided with generous fillets which are not cut away completely before the rotor is lifed out. In addition, proper rotor holes are cast, rather than drilled.

Street rotors, however, are hardly ever inspected unless they make noise or cause the brake pedal to pulse. This means that a crack in the rotor surface is likely to grow, which could lead to a nasty rotor failure.

Personally, I have run drilled rotors on some of my cars, but these were checked regularly for cracks (albeit with a visual inspection, not a proper dye-penetration or Magnaflux). I would not be comfortable, however, selling drilled rotors.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by drmike@txwerks.com
The biggest problem relates to weakening of the rotor by drilling it. This is a hotly debated subject, mind you, so I'm presenting my opinion only, not a general consensus.

Drilled holes in a rotor present stress concentrations. When a drilled rotor is subjected to cyclic, intense frictional heat, the surface experiences stresses which go beyond the yield stress of the metal (especially considering the strength at hot temperature). This results in compressive failures on the surface of the rotor (visible as heat checking after the rotor cools). Holes in the rotor tend to concentrate this stress by up to a factor of three, guaranteeing that a small crack will begin at the edge of a hole.

For racing rotors, this is sometimes acceptable, usually because the rotors are used up faster than the cracks grow, and because the holes are provided with generous fillets which are not cut away completely before the rotor is lifed out. In addition, proper rotor holes are cast, rather than drilled.

Street rotors, however, are hardly ever inspected unless they make noise or cause the brake pedal to pulse. This means that a crack in the rotor surface is likely to grow, which could lead to a nasty rotor failure.

Personally, I have run drilled rotors on some of my cars, but these were checked regularly for cracks (albeit with a visual inspection, not a proper dye-penetration or Magnaflux). I would not be comfortable, however, selling drilled rotors.
Interesting. Thanks for the info, Dr.Mike.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 08:37 AM
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From: Tejas
Originally Posted by gmcdonnell
Texas Speedwerks - are you going to also have have better-than-OEM pads to go with these rotors?

If not, whose pads would you recommend that would match up well with your rotors for a street machine that may see one performance event a year?
Well, that's a loaded question... Yes, we will offer Porterfield pads along with the rotors.

HOWEVER, I would strongly suggest running pads that you are either already familiar with (and like) or those that suit your tastes. Personally, we know that the Porterfield R4's are majorly awesome for track work, AX, and the street but are a bit noisy and dusty... R4-S pads are great street pads and work well for AX, are very low dust and quiet, but aren't really well suited for the track.

There are no one solution fits all in the world of brake pads...
 
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