Todays project: New rear swaybar on my Cooper.

I have a MC and recently picked up a MCS rear swaybar. Has anyone else changed their rear swaybar on a MC? Will the MC swaybar mounts fit the MCS swaybar since the difference in diameter is minimal?

 

Why don't you have the original MCS mounts to go with the bar? Aftermarket bars replace the mounts. Odd.

All the same, I'm sure you could crank it down and make it work. We're only talking a couple milimeters....

R

 

The part numbers for the cooper and the 's' appear to be the same ... so, as Davbret said, just crank it down! (those are part no.'s for the bushing and bush holder ...)

 

Thanks everyone for your quick answers--as usual!

The "S" swaybar went in with no problems. The bushings are rubber and fit the "S" swaybar. Thanks to Randy for his rear swaybar how-to. The job is very straight forward and simple. It was an easy job for anyone else with a Coop that can pick up some spare/discarded parts from a mod'ed "S"--Gotta love the free "hand me downs"

 

Are you happy with the results? Did this reduce understeer in a noticable way?

 

6f7- Did you remove both ends of the rear subframe or just one side?

 

>>Are you happy with the results? Did this reduce understeer in a noticable way?

It does feel better in the corners. I'll get back to the understeer after I drive it for a week or so.

>>6f7- Did you remove both ends of the rear subframe or just one side?

It would be impossible to get the bar out if you didn't remove all four bolts and both sides of the subframe. If you're concerned about the subframe shifting/dropping--it only drops 1" and shifts 1" to the rear--no big deal.

To add to Randy's excellent Rear Swaybar How-To I would like to add some details that might help some of you out. [please refer to Randy's how-to]

Step 1. I was concerned about jacking since the MINI lacks any alternate jacking points. I made some wood blocks that I place in the channel just forwards of the actual rear jacking point. That way I could jack up the car and still put jack stands under the official jacking points. I'm not a fan if working under a car not resting on the official jacking points.

Step 3. We did not have to touch the ABS or brake lines or the lower strut bolt.

Step 6. Wrestling out the old swaybar: With one person on each side, move the swaybar up and towards the rear so that it is in the gap between the rear subframe mount (right above the angle iron piece captioned "This is the inner bolt location" in Randy's how-to). Rotate the bar 180 so the ends of the bar point forwards. The bar now simply pulls out with minor negotiation around the wheel arch.

Step 8. I had one person sit behind the car and I guided their foot onto the subframe. From this position they could easily push the subframe forwards and hold it while I started all the bolts.


1 hour and you're ready to motor.


_________________

 

>>Are you happy with the results? Did this reduce understeer in a noticable way?

I just wanted to follow up about the understeer.

I have the stock MINI suspension (no SS+) and I swapped out the rear swaybar for the MCS (MC SS+) rear swaybar after Randy recommended the upgrade. I was skeptical since there seems to be a minor difference between the two. He was absolutely right on! Thank Randy!

After one week, I think that the handling has greatly improved. My wife even commented that she did not feel as nervous in the corners and it just "feels better."

Today I pushed a familiar turn and all four wheels started to cut loose at once and I went into a very breif four wheel drift. I immidiately gave it a little more gas, back on my line, and on I went. I was completely shocked since I had become so use to the understeer!

I'm interested to hear more peoples opinions of this mod--especially those involved in SCCA or BMWCCA with more suspension tuning experience than myself.

 

I'm interested in doing this mod as well. I also have a Cooper with the standard (not plus) sport suspension and would like to reduce body roll. Most aftermarket bars offer adjustability and thicker than stock size(19-22mm vs. 16-17mm), but cost $190 to $250. My dealer quoted me $94.50 for the 17mm SSPlus bar.
6f7: Any drawbacks to this mod? Or is it all positive?

 

>>My dealer quoted me $94.50 for the 17mm SSPlus bar.
>>6f7: Any drawbacks to this mod? Or is it all positive?

I really don't think that there are any negatives. It will reduce body roll and the ride for daily driving isn't significantly harder IMO--Which is good since I got a 4000 mile road trip next month!

FYI, I got by swaybar for free from someones "scrap pile." Just ask your fellow MCS owners and I'm sure someone will hook you up! What else would they do with it? Someone clear out that peice of scrap metal from their garage and give Greg a project!