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SuspensionSprings, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
Yeah, those Texas boys who sound convincing are the best. Always trust them. They will not steer you wrong.
My only concern would be if them boys out there got their Engineering degree from T A&M. they would probably coil the springs inside-out. You know how them Aggies are.
Actually... Dr. Mike's BSME and Masters of ME are from Texas A&M. His PhD work was done here in Dallas at SMU. Dr. Mike is now, and we're not kidding, an honest to goodness rocket scientist...
Scott went to Texas for his undergrad and George Washington for his Masters...
Jeff went to Akron U for his BSEE a long time ago, when electrons were a lot slower...
So, one Aggie, one Longhorn and a Zip...
(and no, there was no discussion of Friday's debacle in Austin)
Any idea what the ~resultant camber setting will be after installing these on an otherwise stock MCS SS. I assume the tow will need to be adjusted a bit.
Any idea what the ~resultant camber setting will be after installing these on an otherwise stock MCS SS. I assume the tow will need to be adjusted a bit.
So far, the front has ended up around -0.8 degrees, and the rear varies between -1.5 and -2.7 depending on the model and options (=weight). The heaviest car so far was our test subject and that ended up around -2.7 in the rear - too much, which is why that particular guy will be installing some adjustable rear arms in the near future. He did have a late model, so I believe he did adjust out some of the camber with the rear adjustments on the 05+ using the factory adjusters. As such, I'm not sure what his final settings ended up being... Coopers tend to be on the low end of the spectrum, while S models end up at the higher end - and the earlier S models tend to end up somewhere in the middle of the range. A sunroof seems to make a difference, too.
Toe did not change much in the front and was within spec, but we did set the front back to neutral toe (as close as we could get). Toe in the rear changed, obviously, but was still acceptible. The only way to effectively change both toe and camber in the rear is to replace all 4 rear arms with adjustable ones...
You can run without the adjustable arms in the rear - but eventually, you will likely want to add at least one set to dial out camber for optimal settings (especially if you have an S or a heavily optioned car) - and all 4 if you want to adjust camber and toe in the rear...
The heaviest car so far was our test subject and that ended up around -2.7 in the rear - too much, which is why that particular guy will be installing some adjustable rear arms in the near future...
I think he's talking about my fat-arsed car... I've got almost every option (sunroof included) and I keep the boot very well stocked with emergency supplies. When he took these measurements, I also had a huge trash bag full of my wife's old shoes in the boot, destined for the Goodwill bin. My car takes after me in the weight department, so my fat-**** probably doesn't help the situation much...
I would like to dial the rear camber back to a more reasonable range for day-to-day driving and to preserve my tires a bit. I've asked Santa for a pair of adjustable rear control arms (that I'll install in the lower position) to bring the rear camber back a degree or two and help prevent premature wear on the tires. If I'm a particularly good boy, I might even get front camber plates to add a bit of camber to the front and strengthen the tops of the towers.
We re-use the OEM's... We recommend trimming the bottom segment off, which will allow for extra travel and yet still protect the shock/strut. If you trim too much off, the coils will likely bind before you hit the modified OEM bumpstop.
Can I use H-Sport bumpstops with these springs without the coils binding? I am considering these springs with FSDs on my 'fat-arsed' cabrio and would want to provide as much travel as possible while still protecting the FSD strut. The cab is about 175 lbs heavier than a comparable coupe.
Can I use H-Sport bumpstops with these springs without the coils binding? I am considering these springs with FSDs on my 'fat-arsed' cabrio and would want to provide as much travel as possible while still protecting the FSD strut. The cab is about 175 lbs heavier than a comparable coupe.
Trimming off the bottom segment shortens the OEM bumpstops about 3/4", give or take an 1/8", depending on your cutting prowess...
If the H-Sports are roughly the same as the OEM's minus 3/4" (+/- 1/8"), you'll be just fine... The FSD's with no bumpstops at all would bottom before the coils would bind.
So on my 06 with a sunroof, I will more than likely need adjustable rear control arms? Also any pics on a car without aero side skirts/painted trim?
You may be able to dial out some negative camber with the factory cam adjusters in the rear, but probably not all... IIRC, it allows for less than 1 degree of adjustment.
Does anyone know yet how much these springs will drop an MCS cabrio? Aaron, care to take some measurements to simulate - maybe with a ~175 lb. buddy aboard?
Also any pics on a car without aero side skirts/painted trim?
I'd bet some will be coming along shortly. TSW just started shipping the springs a few weeks ago, so folks have to receive them, mount them and drive for at least a few days to let everything settle into place before taking final pictures.
Does anyone know yet how much these springs will drop an MCS cabrio? Aaron, care to take some measurements to simulate - maybe with a ~175 lb. buddy aboard?
I'll see what I can do! It may be a few days though and I'm not sure how accurate it will be as the weight will be distributed differently in a Cabrio vs. someone in one seat of a MCS.
Thanks Aaron . From what I've heard, most of the added weight of the cabrio is in the rear reinforcement, so a rear passenger might be best for measurements. (Although some cabrio owners that have unsuccessfully tried H-sports and H&R springs have experienced greater front drops than the hardtop owners .) Anyway, you da' man!
Just finished my install of my speedwerks springs. The height is awsome (not to low) and after a quick spin around the block they have a much nicer ride than stock. For now I am running them on stock struts, later will be fsd's.
Just finished my install of my speedwerks springs. The height is awsome (not to low) and after a quick spin around the block they have a much nicer ride than stock. For now I am running them on stock struts, later will be fsd's.
Pics? I'd really like to know what the drop looks like on these on a couple different cars. Linear springs ftw~
Swapped out my H-Sport springs for these yesterday. Measured distance to the wheelarches increased 1/8 in the front and 1/4 inch in the rear. My measurements are 24 7/8 front, 25 1/4 rear. (16" wheels)
Haven't driven the car more than a couple of miles yet, but initial inpression feels good.
Wow that doesn't look like much drop at all. I was hoping for a little more. I compared your pix to my car, same wheels/tires, and I can hardly tell the differance. You wouldn't happen to have a before pic laying around would you?
Wow that doesn't look like much drop at all. I was hoping for a little more. I compared your pix to my car, same wheels/tires, and I can hardly tell the differance. You wouldn't happen to have a before pic laying around would you?
Once they settle in, you'll end up right around 5/8" drop in front and 3/4-7/8" in the rear...